Build regret(s)

Interesting read I really can,t chip in since I did not do any major mods to my Tacoma but when it comes to cars I can list a whole bunch.

 

Even though I have the 220 in my new shop, because of where my shop is, and where my truck is parked, I can't really weld directly on the truck unless I get one of those uber expensive extension cables.

The other thing I need to think about is that I've done some fab work at friends' houses with my current welder, so 220 would be useless. I know at least some 220 welders can take advantage of 110, though...

 

Could always make your own extension cable. Or search on Amazon using your desired plug, Nema L6-30 in my case, and cords usually pop up. 50 feet is gonna run you about $100. Which isnt all that much in the world of tools.

 

why did you not stick with OEM leafsprings?

 

I suspect like most of us he wanted to get new ones for lift, better load carrying capacity, replace flat springs, etc.

 

I thought flat springs were bad springs. Turns out its the norm on a taco. I couldve just put an AAL in the oem pack and been good. Shouldve known better, as the oem pack only had 50k miles when I got rid of them, I thought that sitting all the time with a camper shell made them go flat. If I still had them Id clean em up and reinstall them. Oh well, life lesson for me.

I figure these cheapos will last 3 years tops, then Ill get serious about alcans or J59's. It would be dumb to try and throw more money at what I got right now, its just not worth it. They still squeak, and Im pretty sure the clamps are sometimes making a clicking noise whenever I get in or out of the truck. All bushings are new oem rubber, new hardware etc. All the noises are most definetly coming from the leafs themselves. No driveability issues or noises that can be heard in the cab even with the radio off, so Ive stopped worrying about it.

 

yeah I should've said wavy or negative arch springs, flatter springs on a SOA truck like ours is pretty normal

 

Yup. I didnt do enough research before the project. Couldve saved myself a lot of money and a lot of headaches had I just installed an $80 aal kit in the oem pack. Probably wouldve never had to take them out more than once.

Oh well, whats done is done. Ive learned a lot from this experience. If it takes another $600 to erase this mess up in a few years, so be it.

 

wat happen?

 

Right on man!! my dumbass bought a prinsu roof rack awning and plano case i should've gotten tires and frame sliders!

 

Well, easy to figure out.

Page 1, post #16

 

Yeah, I've seen them for as low as $80-$120ish for a 50 footer. Guess I'm just used to the $15 household ones for lamps, lol

 

Just build a firepit or some yard art in your spare time, then sell locally. Its how I bought better equipment.

 

The OEM length King rears don't accommodate lift...the J59s lifted the rear too high for them to fit

 

haha, yeah, I welded the frame brackets for a bumper install on this 3rd gen 4Runner for a guy; a friend of a friend. He tried to give me $100, but I was like dude, I'm a total amature welder and didn't feel comfortable charging that much (I'm a grinder, not a welder, lol), so we settled on $50 and a couple 6 packs.

I already have approval for the 180 from the boss, I just need to sell the 125 first. That means doing stuff and things, and I'm feeling lazy right now.

 

Too busy to quote all the comments.
Overall, yes you can do a lot with a 110 sure, I'm not saying you cant. I'm saying, I would much rather buy a welder with both because the price difference IMO is not one to fuss about since it's a lifetime tool. Most entry level lincolns, millers and everlasts have 110/220, so my reasoning is, why cheap out and get the 110?
Even if your garage doesn't have 220 right now, you might at some point in life, and you're ready for it. You can actually tap into your dryer if you make a custom plug.
I like to buy something with the future in mind. If one day I want 220 I have it and will ensure the garage has it.
So no I still wouldn't buy the 110. I enjoy nice tools and having the right tool for the job. You can tell me how 110 will weld your sas truck all day, cool. I've seen 110 on 3/16 and 1/4 and it looks like shit. Sure it'll work, but I personally rather have the right tool for the job.

It's just like buying a TIG welder with DC only. Kinda lame I think even if 90% of what you do is steel. It's much cheaper but if I ever buy a TIG it'll be AC DC because the few days I wanna mess with aluminum I'll have it. And on top of that, I'll go water cool just because aluminum gets too hot.

 

I tig off a Hobart stickmate DC welder. 110/220 capable. I have 0 desire to weld aluminum, its too much of a pita for the once or twice that Id need it. Hell, even our aluminum projects at work get farmed out, and we do a ton of fabricating.

 

Its a 70% jump in price to go from a Hobart Handler 140 to a Handler 210 that can do both 110 and 220 ($500 vs $850). To somebody breaking into welding, that's a pretty significant cost difference.

Contrary to many, I don't let perfection stand in the way of good enough. Sure, I buy nice things for my truck or nice tools but having a truck out on the trail is far better than one on jackstands in the garage because I was too busy saving for the absolute "best of the best" or even worse, having to stop and sell because my credit cards are maxed out. I have zero regrets over spending $300 on Bilstein shocks 4 years ago and wheeling on them a bunch while I saved and bought a nice set of Foxes this year.

 

Hey I totally agree with you. Perception is different for everyone. I spent 4 years in fab shop and the biggest takeaway for me was to buy a good welder with options I might want for the future.
Personally, I HATE buying something knowing that one day I'll want the extra feature I could have had by spending more money.
I agree that if you're just getting into it you can get a cheaper welder, but I feel that if you have the ability to purchase a slightly better welder, you should. It's also similar to saying flux core vs gas. I think flux core is cool but I'll spend the extra money to have my gas.
I know many people wish they had gone for the 220 after they "got into it". As I get older I also realize that my time free time is dwindling which means that when I work on projects I want the tool that'll make the project more enjoyable and take less time. So welding a bumper with 110 vs 220, my life would be much easier with the 220.
I agree with you that a lot of items can be had for cheap, like shocks tools etc. That's why I have a very modest Tacoma because I put more value in proper tools (when it matters) than having King's versus my OME suspension lol.
I also agree that you should not be getting into credit card debt for purchases. I assume that's a given.

I think welding should be respected, and people should understand the startup cost of it. Sure if you want mediocre welds with the 110 on 1/4" then yeah get a 110.
Doesnt make sense to me.

PS:
I don't own a welder right now because HOA and garage space but the Hobart 210 Handler is a great deal. That's what I'd get nothing less. Tig would be an everlast but first a proper MIG.

 

I guess we have a different definition of "entry level"... I certainly didn't "cheap out" with my welder. I could have gone to harbor freight, lol.