TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I have all my plastic clips. They're down inside the door cavity somewhere.

 

Since everybody's showing dicks

 

Your windshield has bifocals.

 

It helps me read street signs

 

Since everyone wants to play, my turn. Yes the truck is off.

 

I am to embarrassed to show mine

 

Dont be afraid. Average is 2 1/16"

 

Here’s mine. The ultra gage has moved slightly up and left a little

This was also around the time my engine had spun a bearing. The oil pressure gauge confirmed that something was majorly wrong when I had like 5 psi at idle

 

I only have one and so it looks a lot lamer than everyone else here!

 

Hi all.
So I have now installed the 255LPH fuel pump. Definitely noticed a difference. Can now get the engine above 3000rpm but after 3200rpm I have no boost. It just dies off. I have boost from 1000-3200rpm. Is this normal? I remember someone said I should have boost all the way to red line but that is definitely not the case. I’m starting to think this is now an ecu issue and it just needs to be dyno tuned to allow more boost and fuel in.
That’s my thoughts anyway.

 

Boost runs until the engines RPM redline capabilities..

How is your belt doing, did you change it?

I am still wondering if your bypass valve is messed up.

 

Haven’t done the belt yet as it was a special order so just waiting for that to arrive.
So where is that bypass valve and is there a way of checking it?
Is that the vacuum line that goes from the back of the sc to the diaphragm that open and closes the boost? ( if that makes sense?)

 

Possibly a leaking line going to the bypass? At a certain pressure it allows enough loss to close the bypass valve. Just a guess but I'd start there. Another option is the restrictor jet could be twisted and only allowing so much flow.

 

See post #1 of this thread and scroll down a few picts. There is a discussion of the valve and photos of the various steps.

 

Got the AEM fuel pump in, did a couple pulls, and nothing blew up. Actually noticed at part throttle my AFRs drop to the 11s which I didn't see with the stock fuel pump.

Going to hold off on the pulley for now. I got the 2.8 pulley boys kit so I didn't have to worry about cutting the snout and to take it easy on the trans, but after looking closer at it, it's definitely going to be a tight fit. Thinking I'm just going to run the stock pulley until I'm ready to trim the snout.

 

I would highly recommend trimming the snout first. Otherwise you'll have to pull the hub off twice. With a cordless drill, an extension, and a socket knuckle, some cutting oil, and a helper trimming the snout takes 20 minutes. Make sure and tape a bag thoroughly underneath and put some tape around the s/c snout seal. Super easy.

 

Like the others said, look through the first post. Then, find the bypass valve. Pull the vacuum hose, and plug the ports to prevent a vacuum leak. Then drive. This removes the bypass valve from operation. It should be in the fully closed position like this. Which means boost should come on even more quickly, as well as stay all the way through redline.

There are only a few reasons that you would not be making boost. Some form of engine protection, massive boost leak at the cap with the TRD logo, failed bypass valve, or massive blow by from rings.

Help up by following our recommendations, answering the questions concisely, and reporting back.

We keep asking some of the same questions over and over but they get jumped around. It makes the process of us helping you difficult and frustrating.

Very glad you have the pump. Clearly it made a good improvement.

 

Oh and here's this.

 

I like that aquamist. Don’t think I have anywhere to put gauges.

 

Where theres a will, theres a way.