What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yesterday, installed a new rear diff pinion seal Thanks for the help with that Zane @Speedytech7

Also appreciate the feedback from @Empty_Lord and @Blackdawg

Today I replaced my CB cable with a firestik model K-8r18. SWRs are 1.2 on Ch22.

 

It was suggested in the instructions for the shift kit I put in when I did the 4wd swap. Didn't say you "need" to do it for the shift kit. But it did say a worn bushing can cause slow lock up and heating issues. My trans has been running hot lately, so I decided to go ahead and do it.

 

Is the bushing on the end of the solenoid or somewhere deeper in that hole?

 

Harken Hoister 7806-12 is good for 200lbs
Found it on eBay
Look for the auction where you can "make offer"

Thanks to @turbodb for the link

 

Here is the old bushing. It's pictured (orange arrow). It's in the side of the upper valve body. But you have to split the upper valve body from the lower valve body to get the retainer out (orange circle). Which means doing it at the same time you're doing the shift kit makes a HELLOFALOT more sense than the way I did it... lol.

***NOTE*** there are multiple A340F valve bodies, this part number works for mine, but you have to make sure you get the right bushing for the right valve body. The Transgo instructions make it pretty simple to identify which valve body you have.

 

Is that tightened down? If it is, it's way too loose. If it's not (and is just a test fit), then the key is going to be to ensure that the surface on the caliper where the crush washer goes is ground and not painted. Otherwise you won't get a good seal when you snug it down.

You don't want it to look like this:

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Here's mine - takes off the tent and rack at the same time. Turns out, I almost never use it.

Garage Hoist - Winter Weight Loss for AdventureTaco

(and to get your own: Harken Hoister on eBay)

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Oh man. If you got things that hot, you might be spending too much time in one spot. Make sure to move around - do an inch or two at most, per side, at a time. Then move far away and do another inch or two. (You probably know this already.)

 

Ok, thanks!!

 

He's burning with a stick welder haha

 

Still shouldn't get so hot in one place. He's going to wreck his frame.

Or, having never stick welded on anything meaningful, is the problem spatter?

...in which case @m3bassman, just get a cheap mig. I mean, seriously. They aren't expensive.

 

Yeah, I know, but still he's doing admirably for someone who hasn't trained on stick. Most would've given up and bought a MIG by now cause it is 100% easier haha. But his old buzzbox probably doesn't have a huge range between jet fuel melting steel beams and a heat reasonable enough for him to move slowly on the weird angles. Which means he's burning hot and fast and if he pauses things catch fire or melt through.

 

That's damn impressive! I'd have paid to see that in fact. Ground within a foot on the same piece of metal is a good rule of thumb, otherwise your wiring and apparently brake lines become fuses haha

 

Ahh, fair enough. Bummer to hear.

Still, you of all people should have a mig. You're more than welcome to come use mine. Would be a horrible drive with no bed weight though.

 

and no brake lines

 

Ahh, he's still got the front's. Trust me, those are way better at braking than the rears.

 

Troof, only like 25-30% of the braking is done in the rear anyway. Still laugh when people complain about drums

 

Then your garage's bloodline was weak and it wouldn't have lasted the winter. Time to put a machine shop in the yard

 

You want my old one, I can drop it off on my way to WA in a couple weeks?

 

Yeah, it's an older HF unit but you can run clean .030 and .035 flux core welds all day with it.

 

Test fit. And yes I filed it smooth.

All good, brakes bled, MT90 in tranny, even decided to put fresh clutch fluid in with remaining contents of my DOT4 bottle.

 

What are you using for the power steering cooler?
And were did you send your injectors off to, if you haven't already mentioned.