Pinging

Is pinging very common with these trucks? The first few months I owned my 2018 TRD Off Road, the engine did not ping. After about 6,000 miles it started pinging, almost knocking immediately after a downshift while going uphill. In time it started pinging but not as hard while going uphill before the downshift.

Using higher grade gas helps but does not eliminate the problem. The dealer that has been servicing the truck has noted the pinging but has no idea what is causing it, or so they say. They suggested using better gas. In my area there is nothing better than Chevron Supreme which is 92 octane. I've been using Chevron Supreme in effort to minimize the pinging, but have also tried 76 and Costco with no changes noted.

Do others have this issue? Has anyone been able to resolve it? I intend to take the truck to a different dealer but am fact gathering before doing so.

 

Pinging on any vehicle is not normal. Engines have knock sensors and can adjust themselves, for the most part, Pinging can be caused by heat as well. That is NOT normal. I would get it checked out and PRAY you don't hear "they all do that. It's a feature of the truck" Words I will never forget coming from the mouths of Toyota dealers.

 

Owner's manual, page 636:

■If your engine knocks ●Consult your Toyota dealer.
●You may occasionally notice light knocking for a short time while accelerating or driving uphill. This is normal and there is no need for concern.

I'd increase RPMs.

 

Toyota favorite reply to issues......."This is normal. They all do it" Knocking and Pinging is not normal on any vehicle. Pre-ignition is not normal

 

I'm aware that it isn't normal, I'm asking if other Tacoma owners are having this issue.

 

Not a common complaint.

 

Thankfully this is not an issue on the 2TR, we're both enjoying our 4-cly midsized trucks

 

Not to be confused with the "Taco tic. "

 

Neither my 2016 nor my 2019 pings.

 

Mine started around 8 -10k miles. Took it dealer, they couldn't duplicate as one would expect. Eventually went to 89 chevron and it helped. Now, when I see a hill put my hand on the shifter and if theres even a hint of clatter/pinging hit S4 and it drives like it should

 

Nope, it isn't the assorted mechanical noises the engine has always made.

 

Mine does it at low RPM, under load before downshifting. Using 91 octane seems to eliminate the problem.

I've only used Shell/Chevron/Texico since it was new. I don't know what else to do except use 91 octane.

 

Pinging..... Hmmmmm
I suspect that it is a Susuki/Tofu class sub on your six. Set your charges to 20, 35, 60 & 96.3 meters and proceed in a zig-zag pattern until the threat is destroyed or breaks off it's engagement. Godspeed!!!

 

Break the truck in.

 

by putting it in the manual they made it normal
dont even need to go to them to be told its normal

 

Who can blame them? They sell every Tacoma they make. they are definitely not the same company they were 10 years ago. With my first three Tacomas I never heard "they all do that" or "it's a characteristic of the truck" as much as I heard it on my 2016

 

think how I feel.
I'm waiting for toyota corporate to get back to me to decide if they will replace my steering rack thats already failing at 58 000km and they are blaming a 2" lift and 33" tires.

Still within warranty and I got extended warranty for some stupid reason.

 

That's why I am paying the dealer for a level lift. No issues with Radar....

Man, I feel bad for you. maybe you can get the dealer to split the cost......I don't know what's going on with Toyota. They are killing it with sales........definitely a disconnect in the warranty services. The more they sell, the more possible warranty work. I can visualize backed up service appts.

 

It's funny you say that.

I brought that up to them when they tried denying it with pointing to my lift and I said their dealer was selling lifted trucks


We'll see what happens. Based on how they said the clunk is from where "the inner tie rod knuckle connects to the rack"

Based on what I'm finding online a inner tie rod change will fix this. But I dunno if they mean it's the input knuckle. Time will tell. Clunk is only on the driver side which again seems like inner. And they're just saying rack because dealer stupidity. Haven't dug too into it. I originally brought it to the shop I deal with thinking it was as uniball but he said no that's definitely tie rod so went to dealer and here we are.


If they don't warranty I'll be starting with inner and go from there. If that doesn't solve time to look into a Tundra retrofit or something stronger. If 3rd Gen can't handle a little abuse fuck factory rack