1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

135,000 miles needing a new engine Advice

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by rickyg2008, Aug 1, 2019.

  1. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:32 AM
    #1
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2016
    Member:
    #190488
    Messages:
    448
    Sorry if it’s been talked about before..

    Well unfortunately my beloved 1st gen had an engine melt down yesterday going 70 on the freeway.. My local Toyota dealer diagnosed I need a new engine. Lower end of the engine has a bad knock.

    Never thought that would happen being I searched for a very clean one with a good service history and the v6 is known to be bullet proof.

    Only thing I’ve changed on it recently was I started using amsoil and I was on my 3rd tank of premium fuel. Not sure if that played a factor but worth noting. Oil on the dipstick was good.

    I’ve never had to buy a used engine. What’s y’all take on buying a used one. American vs. JDM. Best warehouse ? Or just junkyard it ?

    D98B444B-3B3B-4D7E-9983-BD9AE58D08FE.jpg
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  2. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:45 AM
    #2
    scotkw

    scotkw Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2019
    Member:
    #288508
    Messages:
    456
    Gender:
    Male
    A free State
    Vehicle:
    '17 DCSB V6 2wd Sr5
    What does melt down mean? overheated? Chugachugged and stopped? Or just started knocking but still runs fine?
     
  3. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:52 AM
    #3
    ForestRunnerFrank99

    ForestRunnerFrank99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2019
    Member:
    #286162
    Messages:
    1,013
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Rancho Cucamonga, CA
    Vehicle:
    '99 TRD 4x4 Manual 3.4l v6
    Fox Coil-overs, Dakar Leafs, Intake, Tires, Rims
    First off I believe our engines were designed to run off lower grade fuel. Running premium wont hurt anything but you aren't benefiting much from it. What weight oil were you using in the engine? Amsoil shouldn't have hurt anything unless you were using the wrong type.

    As bullet proof as these engines are and as much as you think you bought a clean car, you never know what the previous owner threw into it or whether it was just a lemon from the factory. Personally I cant believe it died at 135k without it having some serious hidden issues before.

    And as for your engine, you have a few options:
    1. Rebuild what you have. Chances are it is just a main bearing causing the knocking (though without hearing it this is just a guess).
    2. Buy used from a junkyard. Many people do this but of course there is a risk involved with purchasing an engine with unknown history. If you can find one from an accident the engine will most likely be fine (because it was obviously driving before it got hit) but you still wont be 100% sure. If you go this route I would highly recommend getting it thoroughly inspected or rebuilt before installing.
    3. Order one from a warehouse. I can't recommend any but maybe someone here can. I would just shop around, call people, read reviews, and see what you can find.
     
  4. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:52 AM
    #4
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2016
    Member:
    #190488
    Messages:
    448
    Sorry. Better clarifying it sounds like it threw a rod. Loud knocking sound coming from the engine like if something is hitting . Loss of power and a check engine light came on.
     
  5. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:08 AM
    #5
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2016
    Member:
    #190488
    Messages:
    448
    I was running 5w-30 what the Manuel recommended. I don’t think premium had anything to do with it like you were saying. Just bad luck.

    The tech said it was the bearing. So I’ll weigh my options. I don’t mind spending money on the right solution sounds like it just takes research
     
    doublethebass likes this.
  6. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:12 AM
    #6
    ForestRunnerFrank99

    ForestRunnerFrank99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2019
    Member:
    #286162
    Messages:
    1,013
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Rancho Cucamonga, CA
    Vehicle:
    '99 TRD 4x4 Manual 3.4l v6
    Fox Coil-overs, Dakar Leafs, Intake, Tires, Rims
    Okay oil shouldn't be a problem unless it was low or overheating. I don't think fuel had anything to do with it, just save your $$ and get 89 Octane.

    Bearings are pretty easy to replace (once the engine is out that is) and fairly cheap but it is the cleaning and inspection of the rest of the engine that can be costly and time consuming. You don't want those metal shavings clogging up anything.
     
  7. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:18 AM
    #7
    dfulks

    dfulks Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2017
    Member:
    #220567
    Messages:
    163
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dillon
    Portland
    Vehicle:
    2012 TRD Off Road DCSB
    I have had a 3.0, 3.4, and now 4.0. Rebuilt the 3.0 and 3.4 both, if you can get a junkyard motor and have the time to rebuild it then I would go that route, or snag a JDM motor. I always ran 10-30w in my 3.0 and 3.4 being in the north valley of California (hot summers). Not knowing what the internals look like I would recommend a full rebuild or new engine suspecting that the rod may have scarred up the inside. The 3.4 is a great motor, but is not indestructible... no motor is. Best of luck with the ventures!

    JDM motors are cheap on eBay.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-2004-...-5VZ-FE-5VZFE-5VZ/283179934058?epid=654499196
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #7
    Hamer95USA, GQ7227 and rickyg2008[OP] like this.
  8. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:24 AM
    #8
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2016
    Member:
    #190488
    Messages:
    448
    Thanks for the help guys.

    Horrible feeling knowing your engine sounds lifeless lol. Especially with such a good reputation
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  9. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:27 AM
    #9
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Member:
    #51038
    Messages:
    17,612
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Justin
    El Dorado, CA (NOT El Dorado Hills)
    Vehicle:
    '04 TRD Tacoma 4x4 DC
    Kings, J59's Total Chaos UCAs Custom skids Sticker mod
    Has the motor been disassembled and the diagnosis confirmed yet?

    99% you're going to need to pull the motor, so you might as well start there.
     
    PvilleJohn and OneWheelPeel like this.
  10. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:34 AM
    #10
    rtzx9r

    rtzx9r Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2016
    Member:
    #174071
    Messages:
    1,736
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bueller
    34997
    Vehicle:
    2016 TRD Sport
    LS1 swap with nitros.
    Pull the motor and the oil pan. You can then pull bearing caps and see whats going on. If you are handy enough to do this, you can do a rebuild or a get a reman engine.

    If the bearings are bad, likely just need a full disassembly, cleaning, and oversized bearings and journals on the crank ground down a size.
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  11. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:56 AM
    #11
    OneWheelPeel

    OneWheelPeel Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 19, 2016
    Member:
    #187371
    Messages:
    2,302
    Phoenix, AZ
    This ^^

    Another good resource to find local used engines. Sometimes they will deliver to the shop for free too: http://www.car-part.com/
     
    Hamer95USA likes this.
  12. Aug 1, 2019 at 10:26 AM
    #12
    hubcapsc

    hubcapsc Un-Known Stranger

    Joined:
    May 10, 2018
    Member:
    #253064
    Messages:
    341
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Upstate South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    2002 6cyl 4x4 manual
    A JASPER engine is another option... one nearby shop that I've used and liked
    does Jasper engines (that's really all I know about them...)

    https://www.jasperengines.com/

    -Mike
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  13. Aug 1, 2019 at 10:29 AM
    #13
    scotkw

    scotkw Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2019
    Member:
    #288508
    Messages:
    456
    Gender:
    Male
    A free State
    Vehicle:
    '17 DCSB V6 2wd Sr5
    Check engine wouldn't have come on if bearing knock came from just wear and tear. Something major happened that changed the combustion chamber pressure and thus changed emissions output. Which then triggered the check engine light.
    If its a lower end knock, that is just a byproduct of the root issue. if you where doing 7k rpm towing a boat and then the knock started, that would be different story and possibly just a bearing. But check engine and knock at same time at highway speeds. Something else has caused one piston to stop short and the crank to say "wanna bet".
     
    PvilleJohn likes this.
  14. Aug 1, 2019 at 10:43 AM
    #14
    Russianman92

    Russianman92 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2014
    Member:
    #138340
    Messages:
    823
    Gender:
    Male
    Dunwoody GA
    Vehicle:
    1995 White Tacoma 3RZ 4x4 5 speed
    bilstein shocks/struts Add-a-leaf Mostly stock. Running 31x10.5 r15

    I purchased a JDM and just had to transfer intake manifold and a few other items. While I was there replaced timing, plugs, injectors, etc...Been running great! 50k miles in! I think I paid around 1300-1500 for it.
     
    Hamer95USA and Running Board Man like this.
  15. Aug 1, 2019 at 2:50 PM
    #15
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2016
    Member:
    #200436
    Messages:
    4,083
    Gender:
    Male
    I am a JDM fan BUT before I install the new replacement motor I take off a rod and main cap and inspect the bearing/journal. Like stated above $1200 to $1500 plus maybe another $300 in belts, hoses etc or all the little stuff you discover when you have it apart.

    If you decide that this is too much of a project for you either $ wise or time wise, shoot me a private message and maybe we could make a deal on the truck. I am always in the market for yet another project truck.
     
    Abeyancer and PvilleJohn like this.
  16. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:43 PM
    #16
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2016
    Member:
    #190488
    Messages:
    448
    Thanks for the insight. Can’t decide which option is best I’ll have to research more.

    Yotashop sells really good remanufactured 5vs but their pricey .
     
  17. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:47 PM
    #17
    cedarpangolin

    cedarpangolin So country I bleed cedar sap.

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2019
    Member:
    #297836
    Messages:
    383
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Christian
    Vehicle:
    2015 Tacoma Access Cab 4x4 2.7L
    1.5" wheel spacers, 2.5 front and 1" rear leveling kit, AFE Dry drop in filter, Thrush Glasspack Cherry Bomb exhaust, Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires Soon to be: bully aluminum side steps, plastidip emblems
    If its what i think it is, which is a spun rod bearing due to improper oil level/pressure/distribution in the block, depending how severe, you may be able to dig in and replace the rods and bearings yourself for just a few hundred bucks. DIY would take at least six hours, assuming you have a engine hoist, or easy access to the bottom of the block on a lift etc, and all the proper tools. Paying a very reasonable shop would run just under 1k is my guess. I had this done on a 2.3 Ford Fusion that spund a rod bearing at 89,000 miles and they said i needed a whole block. Put the doctor earplugs to it and heard where the knock was, opened it up, and bam, rod bearing. I sold it after the repair and the new owner is a young kid whos put almost 60k on it since then with no issues.

    Moral of the rant, definitely have someone mechanically trustworthy take a look and see if they can open it up and replace the rods and bearings, and if so, weigh that option against getting a whole new engine installed for about 2 grand. Cost of engine is just under a grand including shipping, labor is gonna be close to another grand. All in all, i would hope the repair is an easier and cheaper option for you! Good luck!
     
  18. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:49 PM
    #18
    cedarpangolin

    cedarpangolin So country I bleed cedar sap.

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2019
    Member:
    #297836
    Messages:
    383
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Christian
    Vehicle:
    2015 Tacoma Access Cab 4x4 2.7L
    1.5" wheel spacers, 2.5 front and 1" rear leveling kit, AFE Dry drop in filter, Thrush Glasspack Cherry Bomb exhaust, Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires Soon to be: bully aluminum side steps, plastidip emblems
    The jeep's AMC 4.0 is as bulletproof as they come. If i ever need to fit a different engine into my truck it will be a 4.0
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #18
  19. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:58 PM
    #19
    PvilleJohn

    PvilleJohn SVT Raptor

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2015
    Member:
    #161469
    Messages:
    5,344
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    Powdersville SC
    Vehicle:
    SVT Raptor
    LS SWAP this biatch! :cool:


    You’re welcome. :rofl:
     
    cedarpangolin likes this.
  20. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:32 PM
    #20
    dfulks

    dfulks Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2017
    Member:
    #220567
    Messages:
    163
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dillon
    Portland
    Vehicle:
    2012 TRD Off Road DCSB
    I meant currently a 4.0 Toyota, had a 4.0 in my old jeep as well. The AMC 4.0 was great, but power and efficiency were not in the cards for it.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top