3rd gen audio build - Joying tacoma headunit

I am wondering if the JBL speakers and amp are 2 ohms instead of 4 ohms. I believe they were this way on the 2nd gens. If so, the input going to the JBL amp may have more resistance (being designed for 2 ohms) from the new Joying headunit which I'm sure was designed for 4 ohms.

This would make the volume not go as loud (as some have reported) as a system designed to work with 2 ohms. I'm not sure how the factory JBL amp is getting it's signal from the headunit as I have not looked at it, but this could make the amp work harder and temporarily shut down momentarily. I believe the amp is under the center console (I added a PowerPoint to the back of my console for my kids to plug their tablets into, and I saw what looked like an amp under it) does anyone know what that was if it wasn't the amp? If it is the amp overheating and the amp is using a speaker out of the headunit to get a signal to the JBL amp then I would assume you could hook up the wires to have the JBL amp receive a 2 ohm input, if the Joying headunit is stable at 2 ohms.

I have been wanting to replace the worthless Entune system, but have been waiting for a good system that won't cost 1k.

In the meantime, I have my phone hooked up by by Bluetooth to the JBL Entune headunit. With the recent update to Android auto, I use the Android auto app directly on my phone and have it mounted up by my headunit in a phone cradle I ordered from China and 3d printed a mount that attaches to the radio bezel.. Android Auto works ok on my phone and is playing music well with Amazon music and the SiriusXM app, the two services I use most. Previous versions of Android auto were very buggy when used on the phone app. The steering wheel controls work through Bluetooth, but I do have to hit the Google Assistant button on Android auto on my phone to use voice commands for streaming music, send texts or make calls, but it works. I will upload a photo of the phone cradle and mount if anyone is interested in seeing it. I went offroading this past weekend and my phone was very secure and never moved. If I get enough requests I may be interested in making some more.

Thanks again to everyone on this post for sharing their info. If the bugs can get worked out with Joying I will for sure switch to a different head unit.

 

As far as I know, the thing under the console is the inverter for the bed power receptacle.

 

I believe the amp is under either the passenger or drivers side seat. I will double check when I get in the truck today.

 

After doing some research I think you are spot on with the 2ohm vs 4ohm. The amp is probably overheating and shutting down for a few seconds to cool. I am now in the process of seeing if I can just get an adapter/harness to bridge between the amp and the head unit or if I have to replace the amp all together. I am hoping to not have to replace the amp and then the speakers and sub would most pulley have to go as well since the are all 2ohm.

 

So after asking multiple “so called” experts I think I found what it needed for the JBL users. Looks like there is a harness that will be needed.

Here is the harness
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120TYTO02/Axxess-TYTO-02-Wiring-Interface.html

Here is a video of the harness being installed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWgSrfA31Mg

I’ll let you know how it goes!

 

Same video I posted earlier, I think.

 

Does anyone know what USB cable they didn't send? I just want to make sure I get the correct one sent to me.

So far no issues on my end. I am happy to do an install guide/information video if anyone wants. I am currently trying to find a cheap data only SIM card -- unfortunately Verizon (my network) doesn't support it so I will have to find a different plan for it.

 

Here is the usb cable
https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-toyota-usb-adaptor.html

Did you have a JBL entune system or just standard?

For verizon I went with a myfi hotspot. It connects to my system directly via WiFi. I have it plugged int the usb that i ran in my glove box. Everytime I start my truck the head unit connects to it instantly.

 

This is the adapter they should be sending.

https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-toyota-usb-adaptor.html

 

Thanks all.

I have the standard, non JBL. If possible I'd rather run a dedicated SIM to it, but a hotspot is another good idea.

 

Do these Android head units require you to use your phone as a hotspot or do they connect and use mobile data a different way? I love the look of it but Verizon was more than happy to throttle my service when I had to use my phone as a hotspot for my laptop in the past. For some reason that was never an issue when I was using my phone's data in cars that came with Apple CarPlay though.

 

It has a SIM card slot. I did stop into the AT&T store and picked up a data-only SIM, but they did something wrong in their system and it wasn't working in my head unit. The online customer service team sent me a new SIM that is scheduled to arrive today. I'll be able to update this evening whether that's working well or not. I've been putting my phone in hotspot mode in the meantime, but first world problem, I don't want to always have to take that step and would prefer the head unit have it's own data plan.

EDIT: Update on the SIM card. It's in and the head unit can see/read it, but no dice on internet connectivity. So, what @5nahalf said - I'll look into apps that'll auto-magically turn my phone into a mobile hotspot when it connects over bluetooth.

 

There is a app (android, not sure about iOS) )that you can get that will auto turn on hotspot when a certain device connects via bluetooth.

 

Interesting. I'm not really interested in using any functionality that the stock headhunt doesn't already have other than Apple CarPlay which I believe typically runs off your regular cellular data. I know I could do that with a regular double din head unit from Sony, Alpine, etc. but it sure is hard to say no to a 9" screen.

No matter what way these get connected, @SogBecks is definitely right. First world problems indeed, hah.

 

You’re the man

 

OK... So. I picked up the Axxess TYTO-02 today and spent this evening installing/testing. First things first... I did the typical male thing and didn't read the destructions all the way through prior to beginning, so I missed part 2 of the instructions. This is a mistake I repeat over and over and over again, yet seem to have a mental block and don't learn.

Once I unsecured my head from my pooter and followed the second half of the instructions, I am writing this message to you all from my truck, with the head unit working and the Axxess device plugged in. When I fade to the rear, I no longer lose audio completely. It does actually fade and there's a bit of a delay, but the fronts do shut off and the volume control does turn up/down just the rear, and conversely, the front.

So, checking the system up time, I'm showing 23 minutes and some change. There has been no loss of sound. It would consistently happen every 10 minutes or so, more if the volume was up louder. So I'm happy to report that's a success! It comes at a cost:
- Steering wheel controls are gone. In order to work, there's an adapter

$64 ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

ASWC-1;
- Rear camera isn't turning on. I generally don't use it, but I'd like it to work. There's a "Green/Purple" wire that I'm supposed to connect "to the reverse wire", but I haven't figured out which that is;
- The "Car Info" app is rendered useless - it was reading my MPG, TPMS, and would pop up a view of a car showing the status of which doors were open. I thought it was neat. My assumption with this is that the canbus thing is rendered useless because it's tied to the same plug on the truck which is now plugged into the TYTO-02 device.

That's about it. It's a pretty steep cost at this point, in my opinion. I really like this headunit, but I may be round hole/square pegging it and should look for a headunit designed for the JBL system.

Oh, and I'm now up to 38 minutes of up time with no sound interruption. Woop woop!

 

Damn... I was hoping it would work flawlessly. I read earlier today that the JBL amp is a 7 channel amp and it is mounted right next to the sub woofer. Looks like replacing that JBL amp with a different amp(s) may be the only way to get it to work with the JBL speakers.

 

Another thread stated the "reverse wire" is white and labeled ccd-v

 

Well, I just had this whole reply written up how the only thing not working now was fade and how for 22+ minutes, the sound has been coming out with no interruption. And whamo. At the 23:30 mark, it turned off for a few seconds. That's 13-ish more minutes than before, but still not awesome.

Back to the drawing board.

 

I'm rooting for you!!