2LM PnP - Plug and play 2WD low range for the 3rd gen. Tacoma

Initially no. I took the dash back apart and rechecked all the connections and then test drove it and it seems to work fine now I do have to shut the truck off to disengage it but 4lo has always been like that for me,even in my 2nd gen With a fair share of heater cores under my belt in the last 30 years this was a snap,it took me about 15 minutes start to finish BOTH times

 

Are you going to the floor with the clutch pedal when going in and out of 4Lo?

 

Not the problem,I checked the procedure for use before the test drive....

 

Yes

 

Cool. Just checking.

It is weird that it is happening on both gens for you.

 

Sorry. Just trying to help.

 

I appreciate the effort either way. Ghost in the machine,gremlins, who knows why it wouldn't work the first go around. I tried at least a half a dozen times,turned the truck off tried again ect. and it would not engage.

 

Weird. There is too much wizard stuff going on for such a simple thing.

 

So the truck behaves weird (have to shut off to disengage 4lo) with and without using 2lo switch?

If so, there is about 95% chance there is an issue with transfer case actuator.

 

On both my 2nd gen(no mod) with over 100k and my 3rd gen with just over 10K. Maybe it's just operator error. It did it before the P&P and always has

 

Just need to feed the 12v switched power (from your overhead switch) into the relay. (It should be wire that connects the switch connector in kit to the relay)

 

Interesting.
Could be operator error but probably not.
Really only two reasonably likely causes.
An issue with transfer case actuator
An issue with clutch full depress switch, which I also believe is used for starting, so probably not it.

So really transfer case actuator is only really plausible I think.
Can work on diagnosing it if you want to, going to take techstream and/or a multimeter at minimum. If up for it, post a new thread. (Actuator troubleshoot https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-actuator-troubleshooting-transfer-case-and-add.578262/ )

 

I’m having some problems. I’ve not cut any wires.

1st question- is the switch supposed to light up on bottom with the key hot? Not on the illumination circuit?

2nd- When the button is pushed I hear the relays click. Then when I engage 4H I hear and feal the transfer case actuate. But the 4wd light flashes on the dash. The truck will not shift to 4wd low or what’s supposed to be 2wd low.

The resistor it too hot to touch after 10 try’s.

With the switch off the truck performs normally, 2wd, 4wd, and 4 low.

 

Is the relay hanging free or have you zip tied it to something? I realized there are a couple terminals that are open. Make sure they aren't touching anything. I'm not home at the moment but I can assist in a little bit.

 

Ok.

The relay and resister are hanging free dash still pulled apart.

After further testing.

Push switch, turn knob to 4wd high.
The relays click, the truck shifts to 4wd high but the front axle disconnect doesn’t engage. I verified the front driveshaft is engaged and locked to the rear shaft.

So I have 2wd high range with the transfer case in 4H and the 4wd light flashing on the dash. The truck will not switch to low range.

 

Something is not right. I did bench test all the harnesses before I shipped them, but that doesn't mean there can't still be something wrong.

I just got home. Give me a few minutes to look at the drawings and I'll PM you. If I don't have an answer I'll get you a shipping label to send it back and get you a replacement out. I have one that I verified on my truck I will ship you.

 

Ok

 

Sorry
In the midst of doing an air conditioner install.
Sounds like something in the relay isnt right. Do you have dash on, because I think going to have to wring out relay connections.

If resistor is hot, truck is actively trying to operate ADD actuator. From 2hi to 4hi, that means one of the position signals in the relay isnt right.

 

quick question , has this been tried on a AT yet . Are the AT and MT wiring needs the same with no differences in the wiring ?

 

That is what I believe has happened. I realize now that my bench test would not have caught this. I will revise my tester.

It is still annoying that the vendor did not catch this. They were supposed to be testing these too.