LCA Bushings: OEM, Energy Suspension, Whiteline

I did the same thing. Got a used LCA from a forum member and worked on putting the whitelines in this last weekend.

I don't have a toyota factory bottle jack since my truck didn't have one from PO, but I had another cheapo that I modified to do the job. Then pressed in the new one with a ball joint press.

The first attempt didn't go so smooth as the center thru piece pushed out of the rubber and outer sleeve. So had to burn out all the rubber and use a sawzall and punch to remove the outer sleeve.

After cleaning up the inside with a wire wheel, i found some interesting marks. Seems as if someone before did bushings on this LCA and used the same sawzall method but cut a little too deep past the outer sleeve.



Did anyone see marks like this on the LCA's?

 

the shallower grooves can be caused by debris removing material when pressing the bushing out. However, that second photo upper right really looks like a sawzall went to town on it.

 

I’m thinking about buying a used set as well and attempting to replace with ES bushings. What’s a good price on a set? I can get a set for $60 if I pull them.

 

That's what I figured. Given how uneven the groove is, didn't seem like something that would have been left from assembly at the factory. At least it's between the welds that attach the pivot to the LCA.

Are you talking about a pair of LCA's or ES bushings?

I'll sell you my ES bushing kit (8.3115) since I ended up going with whitelines if you're interested. Brand new in box

 

I have the bushings just thought it might be easier to buy a used set of LCAs to put new bushings into before tearing my truck apart and possibly running into complications.

 

Gotcha.

If it's your only method of transportation, that could be a good call. Then try and sell your original LCA's after you're done.

Don't know what a pick 'n pull would charge for a set of LCA's, but I think I got my driver side LCA for around $50 shipped off of a forum member.

 

I was quoted $60 for a set from pick n pull, it would also educate me on removing and installing then onto mine doing it that way.

 

I'd send it, I'd just take a small round file to deburr the higher edges.

 

Given that they are in pretty good condition, that's a good price.

As long as you don't have to wrestle with any seized cam's, removal isn't that difficult. Remove LBJ, unbold lower shock bolt, remove sway bar end link, loosen PS rack to remove cam sleeve, then drop the LCA. Some of the work may have already been done for you if it's in a scrap yard too.

That's the plan. Already pressed in the new ones and will tackle the passenger side sometime this week.

 

So check for physical damage? Can you tell if a cam is seized without removing it? I’ll have to do some research on it.

 

Yea. That and any excessive rust. The LCA's on these trucks are pretty stout so unless they were bounding over rock gardens on them, i'd say most should be good.

Hard to say on the cam sleeves.
I get pretty regular alignments and the tech's say that they have no problem moving the cam's around and they aren't seized or anything. But then again i've heard of some people on the forums that have gotten alignments just before and still had problems with seized cam sleeves when they went to do bushings.

I have yet to pull either of my LCA's so i'm hoping that thing's go smoothly when the time comes.

 

Has your truck been in Cali its entire life? Tends to be more of a problem in more northern/northeastern climates. Even down here in the humid armpit of the country I had no issues pulling my LCA cams. Minor rust on one sleeve was about all I ran into.

 

From the little history I know about it, yes. Nevada and CA.

I don't expect it to be too big of an issue, but you never know. My old rear bumper was pretty rusted, but that's about the extent of its presence on the truck from what i've seen so far.

 

Great information OP. I bought my FJ cruiser in new early ‘08. I immediately put it to use and within two years the stock front LCA started clunking. In November ‘10 I went with the Energy suspension bushings. For a month they were good, but then started to squeak. I milked them for all I could but they were not the greatest investment. In Feb ‘13 I installed the Whitelines. Been very happy ever since. If I needed to recommend replacements to someone, it would be an emphatic Whiteline recommendation.

 

Oh ok well if I do get a spare set of LCAs and the ES start squeaking bad I’ll put whitelines in LCAs I pull off my truck.

 

With either brand, I would recommend getting some of the super lube with the PTFE additive. Lots of success stories from people that have used it. I got a tube of it for my grease gun and I now use it for everything.

Had a bad creaking from my total chaos UCA's not too long after installation after using the supplied grease, then pumped it full of the super lube and it's been dead quiet ever since.

Since there aren't any zerks on the LCA's to grease them after installation, be very liberal in covering all pivot points with the stuff before you throw them back on.

 

I bought the whole ES kit. Did my body mounts Saturday and those were PITA. Gonna try and knock out the rest of the front end bushings once I get the spare set of LCAs and have the bushings in them. Along with new UCAs.

I’m tried of the clunking noise and swaying all over the road.

 

Like a rough ride? My truck by no means has a soft ride as it is lol.

 

I don't know if this deserves it's own thread, but I'll tack this here for now:

I have an '02 4x4 and the last time I went to the brake shop the guy said I needed new bushings (pretty sure on the Lower Control Arm) because the grease was leaking out or something. He then asked for $400+ to fix the problem. I did a 360 and noped right out of there.

1. How do I verify that my bushings are bad
2. is swapping bushings really as bad as depicted in this video (I've seen tacoma world members boast that it is a 30 minute job for both sides. I can't believe)
3. I have a new LCA on the passenger side and only need bushings for the driver's. Should I also swap the Upper control arm bushings as well? What about on the passenger side?
4. Energy bushing kits 83115R are apx $44 for a full set, White line is $65 for a half set (lower left and right) and RockAuto has these Moogs for $18.06. If I buy bushings from RockAuto is the price for a pair or per ea? I'll contact support on a weekday to confirm, but I figured I'd ask since I'm sure someone here must have firsthand knowledge.

I don't think that I should switch everything over to polyurethane, I'm seriously starting to consider just buying a whole new Lower Control Arm and skipping the hassle, but I don't know. I don't have a ton of spare time, but I don't have $400 to pay the shop, either. I'm just looking for some advice to replace the faulty bushings one way or another so that I can get new brakes and an alignment.

 

Sounds like he just wants to make 400 bones. For one, there is no grease to "leak" out of your LCA bushings (or uppers for that matter). I have 162k on my 2002 and still am running the stock LCA bushings (last component of the front suspension that hasn't been changed lol). I would call the shop up and ask them exactly what was leaking that needed to be replaced... perhaps the tech noted your Lower Ball Joints were leaking (in which case, deal with it and don't wait). Maybe they were referring to your CVs? I'd start there - call them and confirm. If they DO tell you the LCA bushings are leaking and need to be replaced, hang up and never go back there again.