TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

What control system do you prefer for this?

 

Flex-a-lite has a couple different options. I am trying to sort out the differences now but will probably go with this one.

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accesso...roller-with-thread-in-temperature-sensor.html

It has a 45 amp capacity so it will power both my fans. It also has a adjustable thermostat from 160 to 240, and it runs the fans on variable speeds depending on coolant temp so they turn on at 60% and then ramp up from there as needed. So hopefully it will get rid of that big draw all at once when the fans turn on.

It has the AC relay and I can add a manual on/off switch which I may do as well. Still trying to decide if I want to spend the money on two controllers do I can run them progressively as mentioned before. I will probably just do one for now and see how things go. If nothing else I can unplug the small fan in the winter.

 

I use the same type of controller and have had no problems with it.

To get the A/C signal for it, I used the “ACID” wire on the A/C amplifier. This wire sends out a (-) trigger any time the A/C button is lit.

The A/C amplifier looks like this:


It is located directly above the glove box. If you remove the glove box and look upward you can see it up there:


On my 2014, the wire is violet and is located in pin location 25.

 

Sweet, my 2013 should be nearly identical to yours.

Have you seen improvements in cooling with your E-fan setup?

 

Not having a mechanical fan in the way while working is incentive enough for me.

 

I made several changes all in a short period. 160 degree thermostat, fan clutch mod, CSF radiator, then e-fan conversion. In its current form, I’ve never seen it go over 190 degrees. It mostly stays around 185.

Also, you mentioned a switch. I had a couple buttons made for the controller to be able to select full speed regardless of temp and also turn the fan completely off. (in case there are any water crossings at the Whataburger drive thru)

 

So much room for activities!

 

Going in to do the retard gears... started the teardown tonight... got the supercharger off and the intercooler. Valve covers tomorrow.

 

Changing the coupler too?

 

Do we have a list of the torques for all the bolts on the S/C?

 

Yup. To the polyurethane one from ZZ.

 

Yeah I just did the CSF radiator and 160 t stat as well. Before I was constantly pinging 200 when towing 2-3k pounds or climbing or offroading. Now with those mods I typically don’t go over 194 but would like to reduce that a tad more if possible especially since it is mostly happening at low speeds.

Lowest Ambient temp when I hit 194 was only like 75F.

 

Side note to anyone looking at replacing their tensioner....do it. Mine broke awhile ago, not in a catastrophic way, but in the slot that your ratchet goes into to crank the tensioner.

I finally replaced it with the reinforced Steeda one linked in the original post. When I got my factory one out I examined it and found multiple stress cracks in the arm.







Some may be from casting but some are definitely from stress and would likely break. I also was able to remove my belt by hand when I swapped it out because the tensioner spring in it was so loose.

The Steeda is much stronger. However the one linked in the first post was not a direct fit for my truck. There is a small tab that holds the tensioner spring in place. On my truck it stuck up too high and hit the bracket that holds the tensioner assembly in place. I trimmed it as shown below and it fit fine.

 

Yeah.. direct from Magnuson: Guttentite

Seriously, those bolts and nut do not need a torque spec because RTV doesn't care what torque you tighten bolts or nuts to. It's going to form a gasket no matter what so just get them tight, let it dry and forget about it.

It has become a previous known fact that all the aftermarket upgrade tensioners require some form of small modding here and there to fit to our setups no matter the brand. Great post, but this has been discussed in detail in prior posts.

There is no true "bolt on" upgraded strength tensioner for our trucks, but they are close.

 

Would you go with the roush or steed tensioner? I think it will be good to get this out of the way in the beginning.

 

Is the 160 t worth doing while I am installing the SC or later on if/when I add a CSF radiator etc to cool her down?

 

Anyone have a flexpod for sale before I pick up a new one? Was debating on the Lotek or flexpod. keep it low key unless I need more gauges.

 

In my opinion, you are going to want all the cooling capabilities you can get from the get go. I installed my SC in the winter and everything seemed fine, as soon as summer hit, and every summer since I have been trying to cool things back down. I now have the 160 degree t stat, CSF radiator, hood louvers, a larger trans cooler with its own small pusher fan, exhaust wrap/insulation in various locations and as mentioned above I am now looking into a more powerful e-fan system. The SC adds a lot of heat to the equation, especially with smaller pulleys.

My truck gets used pretty heavily though. Towing, lots of climbing around here, and lots of slow off-roading. Your results may vary but I would be ready to experience some form of temperature rise.

 

That's on my to do list as well.

 

Can the original post be updated with that info? I know it talks about the Roush tensioner mods but nothing is mentioned about the others. I can’t say I have kept up on every post in the thread but I do follow pretty closely and I never saw anything about the Steeda needing modifications. It wasn’t a huge deal to trim at all but the info would be nice to know upfront.