What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Makes sense. I feel the sport is a little loo stiff and I'd like a softer ride. I Maybe wrong but I feel the 5100's would be a nice feel if I stay at stock height but like you said if I raise it it will stiffen it back up some. May have to get new springs to soften it back down if I lift it. Thanks for you input. Lots to think about.

 

I will check in to that when I get home tonight. May be another good option. Thanks.

 

If you don't mind tinkering my suggestion would be to use the 5100s with stock springs, get it to the height you want, then determine if the ride quality is where you want it. If not, then some aftermarket springs should do the trick. Good luck!

 

THE RMAS kit is certainly DIY. I have a few suggestions during install if you would like.

 

Hey johnnyroid,

What is the promo code, can’t seem to find it?

 

"tacomaworld"

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/detailing.32/

 

So far I love them. I’m going to test them out this weekend at a local off road park. I have started a thread about them and will update as they get more miles on them

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/review-dick-cepek-trail-country-exp.622112/

 

That's a good idea, was kinda thinking that. Believe I would still have to get an aal or 3 leaf progressive leaf in rear so the truck isn't high in the front.

 

I just did a 3AAL and like it so far. Rides similar to stock and gained right about 1.5" You will need a cutting wheel/grinder to remove a rivet on the stock leaf pack so keep that in mind. Also, have some good quality C clamps readily available.

 

I’m just putting some information out there, don’t sweat it too much. If ultimate performance isn’t the primary objective, simple changes seem to make a lot of people around here happy and that’s what counts.

I think about mine and putting bigger tires isn’t what I want as I want the tires in the wheel wells and I want the stability and roll resistance both on pavement and side hills, clearing big rocks would be cool but I also do t want to mess up my nice truck and I know myself well enough to know that’s what’s going to happen. What’s good for me, isn’t what’s good for others, that’s why we get to modify our trucks into our own personal shape.

The full external cage sounds cool but I couldn’t afford to do that to my new truck both financially or emotionally. I love seeing others do it so I get the vicarious enjoyment. I have always been a function first kinda guy.

 

Unless I am missing something big, the springs will not be compressed more by raising the clip up, only the ride height will change. The weight of the truck is what determines the amount of loaded static compression on the springs. I think Bilstien makes good shocks and is a good company. They seem to represent an excellent value for money.

 

Raising the clip on the 5100s will put more preload on the springs, so yes, they are getting compressed.

 

The length of the shock does not change, therefore moving the clip up WILL compress the springs and add preload.

Agreed.

 

I’m new to 4wd but not necessarily new to suspension systems. I’m here to learn so I apologize if I’m missing something. Please take the time to explain to me where I am wrong.

The weight of the truck compresses the spring based on the force a spring. Think of how a spring scale works. If the coil over shock is out of the truck and you increase preload, say by 1/2”, yes the spring is more compressed on the coil-over shock. When you put it back on the truck it again is the weight of the truck that determines the total compression of the spring. Another way to look at it is to stand on a 200 lb per inch spring and if you are 200 lbs it will compress by one inch. If you put a 2x6 under the spring and then stand on it the spring will still compress by 1 inch but you will be higher in the air by the thickness of the 2x6. Only if the preload was so great as to impart more force than the truck will put on the shock would the spring not be at the same length as before and in that case your jack would come out without the truck sagging.

Again, I’m making assumptions based on what I think I know. It’s a great discussion which many may gain from.

 

Take that same spring, say it is 10” long. Now tie a string around it and tighten it so it is now 8” long. Now place it on the board and stand on it.

Ever take apart an M2 Browning? Ever hear horror stories of removing the spring while it’s been charged with the spring under tension (or preload)?

 

The further up the shock you move the c-clip on the shock, the more the spring is being compressed. I'm not even sure I'm using the correct technical terms, but the spring is what lifts your truck, not the shock. If the spring is more compressed on the coilover, the higher it will lift your truck.

 

This explains it better than I can -

"A progressive rate spring which allows a single spring to essentially exhibit multiple rates. By utilizing varied spacing spring coils, the initial rate may be 60lbs/inch, requiring 60 lbs of force to compress it one inch. Then each subsequent inch of movement would require progressively more than 60lbs of force such as 75lbs more for the second inch, 100lbs more for the third inch etc, as shown in the example. Progressive-rate springs become stiffer quicker as they are compressed."


By adding preload (moving the clip up) you take out the compression the weight of the vehicle would exhibit on the spring, giving you lift.

 

Yea I saw where I would need C clamps and grinder which I have. Did you remove all of the old leaf pack or keep the one piece in that I read some people dont remove. Believe it makes a difference in the amount of lift you get. Also are you on original shocks? Thought I read where those wont work with any lift in the rear.

 

I took the overload out for better ride quality but might put it back in to gain an additional 1/2". I am using bilstein 5160s in the rear. Longer (than stock) rear shocks are a good idea.