Front Body Mount Noise Fix - That noise may not be your leaf springs

Oh come on.. Don't be one of those guys lol
The creaks & clunks of this truck give it character

 

Hey guys. I have found that by putting Corrosion Free rustproofing on the truck every 1 1/2 yrs. clearly stops rust and every squeak that ever was thinking of starting..!!

Honest.... My 2006 Taco and now 2016 was and is "squeakless"...……..

I'm sure other rust products might do that also, but I do not know.

 

Thanks man, gonna dip the whole truck in some wd50. Now I just gotta find a big empty pool

 

Haha yea I know. With my OCD with stuff like this you think I would just lease a vehicle so I constantly have a new one lol.

 

Honestly, no squeaks in my 2016 SR5 or current 2019 TRD sport . Just lucky I guess.

 

I'm gonna try to loosen and retighten my side steps and skid plate tomorrow to rule that out. Put wd 40 on bottom on the coil overs on the perch, nothing happened. Running out of options haha, but I am determined to find the culprit!

 

Sub’d!

 

Taking the truck in this morning to dealer for them to check it out before warranty is up. Keeps you guys updated on what happens. Pretty tight with the service team and familiar with one of the mechanics. Here we go!

 

Just did the swap and my pop/clunk going over bumps is still there, was told my toyota that it was my calipers clapping and that its "normal" bull. Dont let anyone tell you this sht is normal. My body mounts were shot but its not the noise its the caliper pins not being right and needing grease.

 

Just to add something here. My driver's side mountwas destroyed. Replaced both sides, and still have the same popping. Also the driver's side mounting holes were so far off I had to pry the mount against the body "not easy" to get everything to line up.

 

check your caliper shims, i think the clanking is from releasing the brakes going over a bump and the pad shims sticking for a second then releasing and making the hammer against metal sound clank.

 

My front brake pads just started doing this with the truck about a year old. Kind of worried me at first till I figured out that's what it was. Not bothering to fix it.

 

Don’t forget to tighten the bed bolts and if you have Dakars in the rear they are most likely hitting the shackles. Both are good for some not so good noises.

 

Anybody tried this?

$101 Steelman ChassisEAR Automotive Diagnostics Multichannel Electronic Stethoscope Tool, 6 Noise-Finder Microphone Clamps with Leads, Over-Ear Headphones

https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-06600-ChassisEAR-Electronic-Squeak/dp/B000IHIAES

 

Yesterday decided to replace the front body mounts. Did not take any pictures since my mounts looked pretty much like the ones posted before. Have followed the procedure listed at the beginning of the thread and all went OK. Besides the mounts I have fixed the "buzz" coming from the front wheels, both sides. I knew for a while that the fender liner was rattling since is held in place by 5 (per side) plastic push-in retainers that are NOT holding the liner tight in place. I have tried to put a screw in the retainer hole but is cheap plastic and was spinning without tightening the liner. So, went to ACE and got 10 bolts, washers and nuts and went the old way to secure the liner. Solid in place now.
Before I replace the mounts, I checked the spacing between the cabin and frame. On the passenger side I could put the thumb in but in the driver side the pinky barely went to half nail. With the wait on the driver side, the mounts are more prone to squash and the cab is tilted. After the change I gained about 1/2 in in height in the front.
REMEMBER! when you replace the mounts, the geometry of the cab to the frame will change and you need to readjust the hood.
The truck feels a bit more "tight" when driving and is not leaning when I step on the nerf bar to get it.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Now Pictures:

Here is the bolt setup I used to secure the fender liner.






After the mounts install, the hood is not lined up to the fenders anymore.




I have tried to adjust the hood but the OEM screws that hold the hood to the hinge have a collar close to the head that fits in the hinge hole and adjustment is not possible. Back to ACE for normal screws.
With the normal screws the hood can be adjust a lot. Took some time to make it flush to the fenders and equal on both sides.

 

I had the same experience and my clunk wasn't fixed either. Going on 18 months listening to this clunk every day now.

 

Updates?

 

I replaced mine a few weeks ago due to some noises. I still have some noise, but my drivers side mount was toast anyways, so
i consider it time well spent.

 

Update:
They state that it is probably ny brake pads being rattled around when I'm going over bumps. I'm wondering if it is any of the silver foil looking stuff in the engine bay being rocked around. I kinda trained myself to try to ignore it. In a few years I am going to have to upgrade to size and get a tundra because my family is growing and me being 6'1" and a big dude I can only fit so many humans in the truck with me haha.

 

@Victory thank you thank you thank you.

I’ve had the energy suspension mounts in my possession since oh last June. Finally pryed open the fender liners today to stop the rubbing and saw the mounts that have evaded me up until today. Figured it was time and swapped them out. 2017 Pro with 28k miles. Passenger side metal exposed, driver side not far behind.