TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

yah that was the idea. Do it while we are installing the SC. Rather not rip it all apart again. Its on my list to get before the install happens.

 

The ideal way to install wraps from what I have been told is to soak them prior to installing them and wrapping them super tight that way it ensures correct install.

Interesting. What other info do you have on this? I feel like the majority of trannies in OE form outside of Nissan (curse me for saying that word) just does not shift right, especially once in lockup.

That right there is a SOLID start! Great job man!

BTW, yes you MUST install the Ratiotek kit before you hammer on the 2.5 or else you will burn up your tranny incredibly quickly.

You will like the solid coupler. Engagement is instantaneous. My cam gears are next up for install... Looking forward to seeing how it works out.

 

Does anyone recall this build or know anything about the builder? The link to Xrunderground was a dead end. https://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/toyota-1gr-4-0l-v6-engine-build.78853/

I’m mostly interested in the head work by https://toyotaperformance.com/
Seems like they abandoned development around the time of piston design.

 

I remember it. Did that engine work, got the truck together, and never came back.

 

It’s been along time since I read that one, but didn’t he start with one company but have to finish with another?

 

https://automatictransmission.com.au/torque-converter-lockup-control/

Not sure you’re supposed to leave it locked for shifting. That sounds problematic. The point is to lock the converter to avoid shifting and slipping. This is manual control, not automatic.

 

Man, I couldn't tell you. Too many years ago.

 

What happened to XRU anyways? That forum disappeared or something. All links to it went dead... There was some good info on that site anyways. The fact there was a lack of info due to dead links is sort of what prompted me to make something here due to the extreme lack of info.

 

It was dying. Since the XRunners were no longer being made, their strictness to limit the site specifically to XRunner focus, and the FB XR group, it couldn't stand a chance. When I was a moderator there, I mentioned that they should branch out to the broader Tacoma market. They struck the idea down. That created the dwindling death, as to sell more that 5 of anything required you to become a vendor. No body wanted to be a vendor on a site with such low volume traffic. The incentive would then no longer there to keep the site running. Death spiral by their own design.

This is why I moved over here years ago. As this site is properly adept to evolve with the future.

 

That's really too bad, but I guess that makes us by default the new XRU without the fallacies of death spiral. Lol.

 

Pretty much. Most of the knowledge base is here now.

Five/six years ago or so, the members of this forum were a different crowd. Performance was a waste of time money and efforts. This includes upgrading brakes(front and rear.) Look at where we are now.

The collective mass on this site has the power to influence industries. The money people invest in these trucks is quite unbelievable, when you consider the base price. Overlooked, by some industries in the past. The members had to evolve in knowledge of the mechanics, then mass and reach out. Once that happened, manufacturers opened their doors.

 

I hit a similar temp whenever the outside air is around 100f. My thoughts are similar though I don’t think the fan spinning up is the whole story. I think that the larger CSF radiator causes our coolant volume to exceed the volume the stock water pump can move efficiently. I think if we could over drive the water pump by 20% we would have the same effect as running at higher rpm even with the fan speed being the same. Unfortunately on our trucks the two are tied together and there is no easy way to install a higher flow water pump that I know of.

TL;DR I think once all the cooling mods are on the weakest link on the Tacoma is our water pumps output rate.

 

I also think, this might be a bit mean but it’s not intended that way, that most of the membership that called superchargers a waste of money and focused on $20 nickel and dime mods now own third gen trucks. This has left a different crowd in the 2nd gen forum which is why you don’t see the same level of ignorance in here IMHO. The guys that constantly and intentionally had threads shut down have either traded their 2nd gens in or have moved onto the third gen, which benefits people like us who love our second gen trucks and want to get everything out of them we can.

 

Thats so true it hurts. Me personally I dont really spend money on anything else hobby wise. except bullets haha

 

Not a bad thing.

 

Probably how ten years ago the first gen guys may have disliked the ignorance of all the new second gen owners

 

Genius. I hadn't even thought of this but would guess that is the case. So now that I am going to an E-fan. Wonder if I could upgrade the water pump.

 

So what are people's thoughts on this:

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/numbers-matching-water-pump-rebuild

I doubt there is a drop in replacement high output water pump for our trucks. But, if we had a high flow impeller made to fit, that could increase the flow.

 

I kinda want to disagree with this. The water pump still moves the same amount of coolant. Yes, the engine is generating more heat output, but the larger radiator with longer dwell time is also allowing for significantly more heat transfer. I really think the temperature control comes down to two major aspects. Air flow at slow and moderate speeds, and the thermostat. The thermostat IS the flow limiting factor. If the fluid in the radiator is over cooled with a delta too high in comparison to the thermostat's operation, then the thermostat with either not open completely or chatter. I think this is why some folks with larger radiators and efans run slightly hotter than they want too.

I know on my PWM setup, I was running north of 205 and my e fans were screaming. It was only when I started to turn the set point to a higher setting(turning the fan speed down) that the temps began to lower. I now run 187-194 no matter the ambient conditions.

If you want to test the flow issue past the thermostat with a stock radiator and pump, then we just need someone to install an orfice plate with a slightly larger open area than the thermostat minus obstructions. I'd wager that we see temps significantly lower than we are. Also replacing the water pump for one with more flow won't help if you don't open up the flow around the thermostat. In fact I would venture a guess that the thermostat would be more prone to chatter.