Dakota Universal Speedo Corrector: An easy alternative to the HyperTech

EDIT: The SGI-100BT is the new replacement for the SGI-5E. It will work just like I illustrated, with the added functionality of Bluetooth.

Edit 2: this may not work on all second gens. Early V6 4x4 manual transmission pull speed from the transfer case output whereas every other second gen pulls it from the abs sensor. That may factor into this working or not, I’m not sure. But if you don’t pull speed from the transfer case output, proceed with caution. If you do attempt it, let us know if it worked.

First off I can't take credit for this, that goes to @buyobuyo. I'm merely making this thread to try and get this product more visibility. Until I texted him, I thought the hypertech was the only solution to correcting the speedometer. I tried a hypertech, and it didn't work. Plugged it in, went for a drive, and speed read 0. My theory is it was something to do with manual transmission vs auto transmission since they read speed from different places. Manual is t-case output (transmission on 2wd) and autos is ABS sensors.

The Dakota Digital SGI-5E is a universal speedometer (and subsequently odometer) correcter. If you try and read through the manual, it's confusing AF and intimidating, so I would like to make it easy for you.

The down and dirty is all you're doing is intercepting the speed wire, and sending both halves into the unit. You're also providing the unit with power and a ground. That's it. 4 wires.

Here's how you take your dash apart.

http://hypertech.com/ProductManuals/inlinespeedo/730107_VSS_Instlltn_Prcdr.pdf

First off, supplies. Here is everything I bought to make this happen.

Dakota Digital SGI-5E Universal Speedometer Signal Interface Controller

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016DVDBZ0?ie=UTF8

20 awg Silicone Electrical Wire Cable 5 Colors (23ft Each) 20 Gauge Hookup Wires kit Stranded Tinned Copper Wire Flexible and Soft for DIY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G844GCY?ie=UTF8

$11 Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MPW54G?ie=UTF8

$11 Posi-Lock Connectors 18-24 gauge #600 Pack of 9

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HT9XJLW?ie=UTF8





First step, locate the speed wire. On my 2005 SR5 it's the red and yellow wire (pin 6). On jeremy's truck, and one other write up I found, it's the same wire. That's the hardest part of all of this is figuring out the wire. Once you verify that, it's easy.

Cut the wire in half. The side that is coming from the connector, goes into OUT2. The other side SIGNAL IN.

Then you just need power and ground. I used the wire taps to tap into the black/white wire for ground.

For switched power, I stole from the light green wire that goes to the dash dimmer. Can be pulled from any switched power source.



I know at first glance this may look intimidating. But read it a couple times, and it's not bad at all.

For calibration, just follow the instructions. For the one setting, you want High->High (this will make sense later)

 

Nice write up, Randy.

Here's the link to my install in my build thread. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/buyobuyos-build-thread.511891/page-15#post-20240110

We connected into all the same wires, but after looking at the wiring diagram again, you can pull switched power from the same connector as ground and the speed signal. It's the violet wire (pin 21).


#randyfab now offering electrical.

 

I was a little nervous because my speed wire was faded and old and didn’t look red and yellow, but more brown and white. I said fuck it though since it was pin 6 and close enough. Glad it worked out for me.

 

Bump for visibility so it doesn't get buried

 

Does this only change the speedometer speed and not the odometer?

 

It corrects both

 

The speedometer and odometer are generated from the same signal, so fixing one fixes the other.


Another positive not listed in the OP is that the Dakota Digital unit is half the price of the Hypertech.

 

I am assuming this is done for correcting the vehicle after a lift with bigger tires

 

My odometer read 4-5% high from the factory, with OE tires. The speedo also reads high

 

This is awesome, thanks to you guys for doing the legwork and sharing it this way. I'll be all over this.

Can't believe what a difference bumping from 245/65/16 (stock on a SR5 4x4) to 265/70/16 (stock on a Baja) made in my guage output. when I lift and go even bigger, this will be in place and ready to go.

 

That, and also a regear (this only affects manual transmissions). Manual transmissions read speed from the driveshaft. After a regear, the driveshaft spins much faster

 

So you indicate you are driving faster than you actually are?

About how much does a typical regear throw you off? I know that would depend on what new ratio, but I am constantly told I am indicating about 5mph faster than I am actually going, mine is manual and I did buy it slightly used, so I wonder.....

 

Mine was wayyyyy off. I went from 3.73 to 4.88 and have 34” tires. I would be actually driving 65 mph but my speedo would read 80 mph.

 

Y'all are saints. I have been wanting to correct the speedo for a while but figured id live with it for the price of a hypertech lol. This is way more reasonable and a guy with a 6MT already verified it, I say again y'all are saint.

 

You’re welcome! The exact reason I made this thread.

 

Got mine installed today and roughly calibrated. Not sure if phone gps speed app is right or not lol. We will see how it does, i had one weird thing that happened, while decelerating it had a weird jump up of like 15mph then right back down. Anyone else have that issue?

 

What about autos?

 

I can’t say I’ve seen that happen yet.

I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. All you have to do is make sure you’re intercepting the speed sensor wire.

 

I've seen mine jump randomly. Usually it's around 45-55 mph. It will dip 5-ish mph for a second and then jump back to where it should be. I've only noticed it while accelerating or cruising. It happens randomly, so I'm not too worried about it.

 

Bump. Op you should have removed the dash bulb for the TPM while you were in there