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TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 12TRDTacoma, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:40 AM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    I dont see how this explains the sudden drop in temperatures when I smash the pedal and spin the fan/water pump. I can replicate this at just about any speed. Cruise for a bit, get the temperature to level out, then hit the gas to rev the engine and spin everything faster and the temperature will drop 4-8 degrees. To me (and I am by no means knowledgeable in this arena) that means either the fan is spinning faster and doing the cooling, or the water pump is spinning faster and moving coolant quicker which reduces the heat transfer from it sitting in the radiator.
     
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  2. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:41 AM
    Sterdog

    Sterdog Offline

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    All good points. I was basing my speculation around the flow rate in the radiator and my experience with fluid dynamics. If the radiator holds more coolant and has a less resistive design, than a pump with a stock flow rate won’t move enough coolant through the radiator. The coolant in the radiator will then end up over cooled causing the thermostat to close more than it should. It’s not about putting in a higher flow pump in order to move more coolant through the thermostat though that’s somewhat related of course. It’s more about getting the flow rate the pump pushes to match up to the stock setup with the radiator size and coolant volume accounted for.
     
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  3. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:59 AM
    DocME

    DocME Well-Known Member

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    I think we're both on the same track with matching radiator temps with the operating temps the thermostat is commanding. However, aside from dwell time in the radiator being longer because of the additional volume, I'm still not seeing how the flow rate is changing. To your point with less restriction the flow rate should increase.... But ultimately a higher flow pump will still be limited by the thermostat's control.


    Yeah, that one is perplexing because there are a number of variables at play. I would hazard a guess that if you had an efan with variable control, that it would be working harder to maintain the lower temperature even during cruise. I get the argument that a fan doesn't help beyond a certain speed on the freeway, but we do have a lot of heat exchanger surface area up front. One item that we haven't been discussing with the aftermarket radiators is the fact they often have MUCH more fins per square inch in comparison to stock. This is for the heat transfer properties. In fact, the RD radiator that I have has the most dense fin count available. This hinders air flow at all speeds. I think that's why an efan complements the aftermarket radiators so well. I do not know how the density of the fins on the CSF radiator compares to stock or the RD unit.

    For me, if the radiator cooling system had proper control on the temperature, it wouldn't and shouldn't make a difference what speed your pump is turning as long as it's not slower than stock.
     
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  4. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:05 AM
    420taco

    420taco Well-Known Member

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    wouldn’t the flow rate go up with less restriction?
     
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  5. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:06 AM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    It's not mean if it is true.

    If you notice, the astounding amount of ignorance amongst the 3rd gen crowd is pretty mind boggling. These same people are out in public, living their lives and infecting that same ignorance amongst the other poor bastards around them. I wouldn't necessarily say it is their fault though because they really don't know any better.

    I guess the saying ignorance is bliss is very true and very applicable.
     
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  6. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:23 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Try pulling those splash guards off completely and see if it runs cooler. I feel a lot of hot air exiting my wheel wells. I have the stock splash guards.
     
  7. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:24 AM
    Murphinator

    Murphinator Well-Known Member

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    I was going to do this yesterday, but I have to remove my damn resi mounts. So I have that planned for this coming weekend.
     
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  8. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:34 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    The engine temp sensor is in the back of the motor after the coolant has transferred the engine heat so it is reading the hottest temp.
    When you reved the engine you also spun the pump faster which pulled more cooler fluid from the radiator.
    That is why you see the temp change.

    Yes there is a lot of stuff in the way of clean airflow through the radiator which is why my front end looks like this now.
    20190802_165126.jpg
    Horns are moved.
    Intercooler pump moved up even with brace.
    Factory trans cooler removed
    Big ass CSF cooler installed with a thermostat for temp control.
     
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  9. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:36 AM
    Murphinator

    Murphinator Well-Known Member

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    Is that the prototype csf we were talking about?
     
  10. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:36 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Can you undo a couple clips and zip tie the splash guard partially out of the way?
     
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  11. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:37 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Yessir!
     
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  12. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:37 AM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    I need to figure out how to do that with a winch in there.
     
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  13. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:39 AM
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

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    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.
    I can take some pics, but I just extended the intercooler lines a bit and fabbed a bracket that mounts the pump on the passenger side body mount.
     
  14. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:42 AM
    Murphinator

    Murphinator Well-Known Member

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    I’d rather just remove them since they are large and kind of annoying. I think if I just loosen my resi mounts I can sneak them out of there.

    Also excited to see how that new csf cooler works out :)
     
  15. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:46 AM
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    My engine bay runs hot. Turbos do that, with the complementing spaghetti of exhaust tubing in there as well. Wrap it up and it will reduce the temps.

    My E36 Bimmer has a very packed engine bay. Always struggles to keep the coolant temps at a non scary temp. So much thermal convection and conduction. Not enough air flow. Those headers need to be wrapped, and they are stock.

    There is also this though. The gearing on that car at cruising speeds is around 3k RPMs. Coolant around 198°-203°. Even with low load.

    If I slow down to make ~2k RPMs, both RPMs and speeds having low loads(pulling more vacuum) the coolant temps will drop. ~188° However, IAT's will then increase. Go too slow, then the temps will climb to ~213°. Ambient temps being ~100°.

    Engine speed contributes to raised temps. As do load, and airflow characteristics.

    Removing the heat from the engine bay, is a sure fire way to reduce external heat sources stressing the cooling system.
     
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  16. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:47 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    What is the AG kit @Murphinator?
     
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  17. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:48 AM
    GT7

    GT7 One piece at a time

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    archive garage. tell me more about this csf cooler
     
  18. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:51 AM
    Murphinator

    Murphinator Well-Known Member

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  19. Aug 6, 2019 at 10:07 AM
    TodayWasTHeDaY

    TodayWasTHeDaY Hoser

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    I really want these now. Another thing on the wish list
     
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  20. Aug 6, 2019 at 10:10 AM
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

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    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.
    I've got a set of Fab Junkie shackle flips that I welded on with some 14" Icon smoothies. I do like the shackle flip with AP EXPO leafs. My next big wish list purchase is TacoBox.
     
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