TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

These are also good points and relevant to @zscott 's question.

To @ torspd's point above when you're cruising, your low temperature radiator for the intercooler is at it's coldest. Then you romp the throttle and force both a load of cooled air past the cool inter cooler and dump a bunch of fuel that further cools the top of the engine. If you stay in it, the temps would increase rapidly as the supercharger compresses more air and pushes heat into the intercooler loop. @Roostfactor has a temperature differential gauge for the inter cooler air temps. He's always talking about the effectiveness of the low temperature radiator. The short coming with that system is the inter cooler in the supercharger. It would be nice if that was much larger.

 

Did you drill holes to mount it or were they factory holes? Whats the height on the unit?

 

I drilled holes.

Here is the link to the cooler with dimensions.
http://csfrace.com/boss-cooler-csf-race/

 

Such a small little part with so much potential.

 

IT BOLTS TO A 1GR FE NO PROBLEM. I WILL NOT BOLT UP TO THE 2.7. THE TRANSFER CASE PATTERN IS THE SAME FOR ALL THE TACOMAS, 4-RUNNERS, FJ CRUISERS. THE AWD CASE IS LONGER BY 1" DUE THE THE CENTER DIFFERENTIAL IN IT. IT WILL ONLY BOLT THE THE 6SP TRANNY. I HAD A CUSTOM DRIVESHAFT DONE THE SAME TIME AS THE CONVERSION. SO, IF YOU DO THE AWD CASE ON A 6MT TACOMA YOU WILL NEED TO SHORTEN YOUR DRIVESHAFT 1" ON THE FRONT HALF BEFORE THE CARRIER BEARING.

 

WHY ARE YOU YELLING?!?!?!

 

WORK WE USE CAPS FOR EVERYTHING. my bad. i will try and correct that for the future.

 

Appreciate the info! I have a s/c'd v6 as well, thats what i was gonna put it in. I have 4.10 gears on stock sized tires so id love the shorter overdrive

 

i have an awd case too. pm if interested.

 

yah I had it on the gears with 285's then went to 315's. 285's it had some pep and the 315 is not bad but hitting those hills it lacks some pep. flat land its not bad def better than stock on 285's

 

Yeah my little B&M super cooler with a 10" spal pusher fan has been awesome. I did notice a significant difference when I changed to the CSF radiator as well. Seems as though the transmission cooler portion of the CSF is better than stock as well.

 

All this cooling talk, ordered the CSF Radiator.. Need to find more about this intercooler roosted posted now.

When would you say this should be added or thought about?

 

Need some advice on FP and FPR on this part..

 

Get a 320L fuel pump from URD. There is a video on how to do the FPR mod in the first post. I did mine last night. Autozone has vacum fitting T's and tubing to complete the install.

 

ah yah the FPR mod is easy enough... thanks ill look into that.

 

Were you seeing lean AFRs prior to the mod?

 

No. Ever since I got the TRD tune I have always been running really rich (like 9-10 AFR at WOT). However, the FPR mod seemed to make it more gradual. Before I would start to accelerate and the AFRs would hang between 14-14.7 then all the sudden drop to 9-10 regardless of changes in boost. Doing some test driving last night as I accelerated the AFRs slowly decrease incrementally from 14.7 to 14 to 13.2 to 12.6 then down to 11 and usually end up at 10 as boost increases.

 

So test drive after all the work. I cant mash about like I usually do due to my clutch about to give up, so Grandma driving only. Still, what a difference! I dont know if it's from the fresh spark plugs or the retard gears or both, but my engine runs wayyyyyyyy smoother. Idle sounds and feels better, down revs are happier sounding, and its not as ragged feeling all around. I picked up .3 - .4 on the AFR gauge richer, which would make sense as more fuel is now in my exhaust and not being kept in the cylinder for a communist re-burn. The poly coupler is money. Call it a butt dyno feeling, but I feel like the supercharger is THERE now. Like on standby to jump in as soon as my foot hits the gas. More on that when I replace the clutch and can give her the beans. The OEM spring coupler was making little gouges where the little spring feet make contact, so I'm glad it's out if for no other reason then to stop the damage. I played with the blow off valve for a hot minute, and it seemed to be making solid contact and closing well as is, so I didn't touch it. It was making happy little tinking noises everytime it closed. It was a full day of work, but so far very much worth it.

 

That makes sense and I've seen the same thing, gonna have to try it out.

 

I got my flex pod from URD about 100yrs ago. Not sure if he still sells them.

Here's my take on catch cans. If they work or if they dont, flip a coin. My reason for running one stays the same. It's not hurting my engine by catching the burnt up gas and oil. Even if it does zero benefit, I dont want that trash run through my engine a second time.