What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I ordered a driveshaft through them last week and got it within 4 days. Also could not get a hold of them over the phone, but got a tracking number same day!

 

if it turns out to be my carrier bearing making this weird vibrations at certain RPMs its probably best to get whole new driveshaft rather than just the carrier bearing itself plus powder coat all the old shaft
i really don't know what to look or listen for if the carrier bearing is shot or wearing bad

 

I replaced my carrier bearing a few months back due to some vibration. Shortly after i started to get a clink clank at slow speeds, so i took it apart again and noticed one of the u joint in the middle was really stiff and to my surprise the toyota dealer said it was not replaceable. I tried all types of u joints, spicer, moog. Not one would let the outside clip set in, even though the u joint was the same size. So i ended up going with a full driveshaft.

 

it should not be too difficult with some xtra help at a mod day,
just the down time with waiting on the stuff to be powdercoated

 

After two shot carrier bearings, I remember that both made high pitched squealing noises. Had a Driveline shop do the work both times.

 

that is very discouraging to hear those U joint parts are not replaceable any more!

 

The double c(wtf it is) has never been easily serviceable as far as I know, the rest of the ujoints are easy.

 

i had been referred to a local truck place that rebuilds those but have not yet checked how much they want for that
they would also paint the shafts I was told, but not sure of the cost for that rebuild or just a whole new part for $700 or whatever it is

 

IIRC mine was somewhere in the $200-300 range. Carrier bearing and both end ujoints replaced, balanced and painted.

I was told that the center ujoints (Double cardan joint) hardly ever go out, but if they do that they are not serviceable (a couple folks argue otherwise). Best option for DC is to cut it out and weld in a new one, or whole new drive shaft.

Edit: original price I quoted was too high

 

How much did that run you? Or is this one of those "if you have to ask..."

 

Jeg's has them in stock...

https://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cooling-Systems/166/CC1778/10002/-1

Or used to.

+1

 

How does the custom one mount - recessed threaded holes?

 

They're on Rockauto, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6506958&cc=1429084&jsn=928

Looks like each side is $200 on their website, I know I've seen them cheaper elsewhere...maybe eBay.

Still cheaper than what SPCs go for now (~$600)

 

Where did you buy it from?

 

From this place. https://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/
best packaging i have seen so far. The u Joints are all spicer and it looks like overall good quality

 

Why in the hell.... Just buy new ones for probably the same cost. I feel like you just like spending money on pointless stuff that with one wrench on them will scratch and start to flake.

 

How old is your fan clutch, what shape is you fan blade in, and have you replaced the fan brkt support w/bearing the fan bolts to?

I'm running the champion w/factory 5spd man. fan shroud and I can say the difference is well worth the cost. Knock on wood 25k miles and no leaks.

Replacing the fan clutch was very noticeable, and I think I even ran a few trails with you that both myself and Pat were starting to get overheat prior to swapping these parts. As ref, 37s @5200lbs that is taxing the cooling system alot with constant weight and higher revs. Replacing the fan clutch after the champion radiator made a noticeable difference on top of the already better cooling. No a/c here, no condenser so that might add a bit extra help. Always replacing a thermostat never hurts. Relief valve pointed down 6oclock position of course

Even in hot traffic, I'm typically at 165*-175* (second trans cooler inline) trans temp od off, and engine is between 188-193*

 

Sounds like maybe a bad fan to me...when I had crappy e-fans I couldn't wheel with the AC on either. Truck would start to overheat esp on hills. Got a new mechanical fan installed and I can wheel in 4lo in the SoCal heat with AC no problem. Stock OEM radiator still for me

My AC also kind of sucks but that's another issue

 

No electric fan here, only manual. Honestly sometimes it seems like the fan clutch is engaged too long tbh, that’s how I have been feeling lately. But since I have been hearing it roar more I have been thinking it’s on its way out and not properly engaging or disengaging exactly when it should. Crawling in heat has never been an issue though, I’m assuming because of the gearing. Timing belt and water pump was replaced at 200k, only at 245k now. I would think it sticking engaged would only make a cooler motor though, no?

 

No, mine came as you see and you have to cut in the sections for it to fit and drill holes.
This way there is much more meat on the frame of the radiator and my new radiator will definitely not
be having any stress area.
It definitely took some time to measure everything and line everything up, was not hard, just took time.