Installing OEM Keyless Entry

Hi folks.

I decided to do a write up on installing the OEM keyless entry.

I have a 3rd Gen SR with power locks but no keyless entry. My understanding is that this kit will work for anyone that is in the same situation. I believe that the SR is the only trim level that doesn't have it. So, if you have power locks this kit should work for you.

I know there's a couple of threads about this but I read them before doing my install and they still left me with some questions. Thought I would try and write something that covers all bases.

First off I want to say that if you don'f feel comfortable with this procedure or your abilities than don't attempt it. With that said, if you thoroughly read the instructions, have some patience and take your time this is easy enough for almost anyone to do. It took me about 2 hours or so and I was taking pictures which added some time. I take no responsibilities if you attempt it and something goes wrong. This is only meant to be a guide and you will need the instruction booklet as well.

Alright, so the kit I used is Toyota part #

TOYOTA APPORVED SET KEYLESS ENTRY SYSTEM CAMRY TUNDRA YARIS COROLLA 00016-32901

00016-32901



Here's a link to the install instructions from Toyota: Instructions


You'll need some tools:
1.Phillips screwdriver
2.Wire strippers
3.Wire cutters
4. Needle nose pliers
5. 10mm socket / ratchet



First, you'll want to pop the hood and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery -


Next you want to remove the drivers side scuff plate as well as the left lower kick panel.
The scuff plate removes by pulling up around the perimeter, it is only held on with clips. The kick panel has one plastic nut that needs to be removed. You'll see it near the top of the dead pedal. You should be able to remove the nut with your hand. Once the nut is off you can pull the panel outward to release the clips.






Once those panels are removed you can move on to the lower dash and lower steering wheel cover.

You will have to release the cable from the hood release handle. To do this you pull the release and while holding it out you grab the cable with a pliers and remove the lead cable end by guiding out of the slot it sits in.


Then remove the three bolts (indicated by arrows in the diagram) holding on the lower knee trim. Once the bolts are out you pull the trim outward working your way around the perimeter.



Once it's loose you can remove any of the switch connectors. There should only be 3 or so to the left of the steering wheel.




Last piece of trim is the lower steering wheel cover -
There are two screws and clips holding this piece. The screws are found behind the steering wheel and can be accessed by turning the wheel to the right and left as pictured:



Once the screws are out you should be able to pull the trim down and release it.



Now the real fun begins.

The instructions don't really tell you this but they want you to wire everything up and then route the wires and secure them in places. I found it to make more sense to route everything and then make the proper connections. Before I did that I wanted to locate all of the connectors that had wires I'd be tapping into.

Also, many people who have done this skip the connections for the horn and lights. I chose to use them because I like to hit my lock button to locate my vehicle in crowded parking lots from time to time. The horn beep and lights coming on helps with this. Though you will find that the horn beep is fairly quiet.

Here are the connectors and pics of their locations:


Connector I7 - Ignition -



Connector C11 - Taillights / Headlights


Connector S8 - Horn


Connectors IC1 (unlock motor) and IC2 (lock / unlock switch)



I disconnected all connectors, mounted my control module and then routed my wiring as per the instructions.



Here you can see the ground stud you will use. It's on the steering column support bar just above where you mount the control box.




Once all of your wires are routed and mostly zip tied in place you can begin T-Tapping into the appropriate wires. T-Taps are pretty easy to use but they should be used in a specific way.

Refer to the instructions on which specific wires to tap into. The instructions read pretty clearly on exactly which wire on the keyless harness goes to which wire on the vehicle as well as which color T-tap to use. (they are different for different wire gauges)

As you get into this you may have to cut back or remove the heat shrink on the harnesses to gain decent access to the wires.




The first wire you tap into is the Red #4 wire on the ignition connector. It's the bigger gauge red wire. When using the T tap you want to lay the wire in the guide area of the tap first. Then close the tap and pinch it with a pliers to secure the clip.






Then you will insert the male spade terminal connector from the red wire on the keyless harness





Follow the same procedure for the next red wire (smaller gauge) in the ignition connector. Connecting it to the yellow wire of the keyless harness, as noted by the instructions




Follow the instructions to install all the remaining T-Taps to the proper vehicle wires. Connect the proper wires from the Keyless harness to their corresponding wire on the vehicle as noted by the wiring chart.

Connector C11 (headlights / taillights)


Connector S8 (horn)


All connections made under the steering wheel and back in their proper locations. Wires are routed and secured along the existing wire harness on the column.


Now we move on the the connectors in the lower kick panel area. These are for the lock / unlock activation.


Connector IC1 -

The Grayish connector requires you to cut and splice into the black wire...there are two black wires here and the diagram can be a little confusing so make sure you are using the SMALLER GAUGE BLACK WIRE -



You will cut into the wire and strip the shielding off of both ends.



Then you will crimp the butt connector of the blue wire to the connector side of the black wire and crimp the white wire to the harness side of the black wire.



Now you can move on to the final connector.

Connector IC2 -
I don't have step by step pics of this one but the only special thing to note is that there are two pink / white wires on the keyless harness and it doesn't matter if you mix them up. One is for lock and the other for unlock so use them interchangeably. Just follow the wiring tap locations in the instructions and you'll be fine.



Once all of your connections are made and wires are routed / zip tied in place, make sure you toggle switch is in the on position.

If you did everything right the ground outside your truck should look like this:



Now you can re-connect the negative terminal on the battery and test the system. I recommend doing this before putting things back together in case there's a faulty connection.

Once everything tests ok you can go ahead and reinstall all of the panels.

Boom, you now have keyless entry on your 3rd Gen Tacoma SR





There ya go folks. I hope I covered everything thoroughly enough. If you have any questions feel free to reach out.

 

Great write up. It’s always nice to get some great instructions out here on the forum for others to follow. Anyone wanting to do this and doesn’t want to cut their IC1 Harness, I have a PNP Harness for that Connector that would allow you to not have to do that so you can keep it factory all the way in case you ever want to go back to stock. Send me a PM or just look up Tailgate Lock or Tailgate Opener. I will also have a release soon on a PNP Harness that ties your Drivers side door to your Passenger Side door with two of these Harnesses. For you SR5 folks, you may love it because it works with your fob for the first click it will just unlock the front doors and not the back or tailgate. It will take a 5 pin relay. Stay tuned

 

So you have power locks, but not keyless? I had no idea that was even an option.

Great write up and undoubtedly worth the price. One thing that scared me with the install was the use of the vampire taps. Those are problems waiting to happen.

 

That’s not true. A lot of people use those T-Taps. A lot of people are fans of them and there are a lot of other things out there that are better. Maybe he will change them later on. However, I have some of these on my truck and they have held up amazing. Plus they are inside the cab so you have less to worry about. I mean I have a couple outside of my cab. Haha but it’s in my fuse box so they are covered. I’m sure I’ll be switching them out soon since I’m redoing my electrical as we speak and upgrading.

 

Yup. I have an SR. With power windows and locks but no keyless entry. I typically wouldn’t buy such a low trim level but I was originally shopping for a Gen2 SR5 and came across this truck. It has all of the options of a Gen2 SR5 that I wanted and then some. Plus the price was too good to pass up. Better fuel economy and lower miles than any Gen 2's I came across plus remaining factory warranty. I knew I’d be swapping wheels and suspension etc anyway so I went for it. I also made sure I could add fogs and keyless after the fact without too much trouble.

Thanks for the kind words! I hope it helps some people.

As for the T-Taps, they don’t bother me in this application. I wouldn’t use them on anything exposed to the elements but under the dash I felt comfortable. Plus they were included in the Toyota kit and I’m sure they wouldn’t use them if they were going to create hazards. I have used them on other vehicle product installs with zero failure.

 

Best mod I've made to mine so far!

 

It absolutely is true. There is no substitute for a proper connection that you can see and feel. Vampire taps can create gremlins that are hard to find. In this situation, it isn't the end of the world because you still have your key.

 

We need more people like you on TW. Thank you for taking the time to write this and positively contributing to the community.

 

You’re welcome! I’m glad to help! I’ve certainly exploited use of the forums so it feels good to give something back.

 

@motofish84

Thank you!!! Without your pictorial, finding the wires would have been a pain in the ass. Your pictures made it so easy to find the correct wires. I cannot thank you enough for putting this together. If you’re ever in central AZ, I’ll buy you a beer.

Fantastic write-up.

 

Thanks for going to the trouble. Great tutorial.

 

All of us with the manual transmissions, all the way up to the Pro even, have power locks but don't have keyless entry. Wonder if this would work on ours as well? Not sure if it would be worth it to me since you have to dig your keys out anyway to start it up, but interesting thought and exercise. Anyone done this on the 6MT Off-road, Sport, or Pro?

Also by "OEM" you must mean Toyota but not specifically Tacoma? Those fobs don't look like the standard Tacoma fobs, if I remember them correctly.

 

If you have power door locks but no fob or smart key, yes it’ll work for you.
OEM, as it is all Toyota parts. I bought mine from Sparks Parts for $120 shipped to my house. It’s four different parts and Sparks puts it together in a package.
I tried to buy it from Camelback Toyota and they didn’t have the part number in their system. Called Sparks and verified it would work, hung up and ordered online.
Super easy install, just finding where the wires were located was a bitch. The pics in this thread made it easy to find.

It is worth the $120 to me for two reasons, forget something in the truck, you don’t have to walk around to the drivers side to get in.
More importantly, I can open the door for my wife. That makes it totally worth the $120.

 

Ah the MT does have a "fob" if that's what you mean, it is part of the key already. So maybe this wouldn't work for us anyway.

 

Wait, you have buttons on your key, but they don’t unlock the doors?

 

Thanks for posting!, I bought this kit a while back but haven’t gotten around to install it yet.

 

You're welcome! Happy to give something back to the TW community. It looked like a pain in the ass to me when I first read the instructions. After was all said and done I think it was really pretty easy.

This is a good question. I don't know the answer to it though. I am curious to know why Toyota would include the fob, power locks and associated wiring and modules but disable the system. I'll have to ask around. I have some friends at dealerships.

This kit works for many of the Toyota models. It's the Toyota Accessory Keyless Entry System. Not specifically the system that is installed in higher model Tacoma's from the factory.

You're welcome! Get after it!

 

Does your control module have a small white port at the end of it?

 

Stellar write up!

 

Installed mine today, went smooth because of your tutorial.