KickerCS Upgrade with Kicker Key amp Install Assistance

I always like to go separate components if I can. The popularity of the 3-ways is because those members are typically doing the plug-and-play subaru tweeters in the dash.
I personally don't much care for the Kicker CS line. Titanium tweeters are way too harsh on my ears, especially once you add power. I run the Kicker KS line and am very pleased. I also run the JBL GX line in my wife's car and am very pleased for the price.
Getting components installed in our trucks takes a little more work, but is definitely worth it to me. There is some cutting/splicing of the tweeter harness, or purchasing the tweeter harness from *********. I run these harnesses and they work fine, just pricey. I didn't want to cut the wiring in my 2 month old truck at the time. Their install videos on youtube are helpful to see if it's work you want to tackle.

 

Thanks again. I am not sure what the **** mask is for. Anyway, what about using a Kicker Key for the front and rear doors, and then connect the tweeter directly to the Front L/R pair coming out of the Entune deck w/o an amplifier? I just can't see a need to amplify the tweeters.

If I were to go Kicker KS line and a separate 8" powered sub (already got the house named unit from Crutchfield), what speaker pair for components would you recommend for the front and rear pairs?

 

Oh, not sure what happened there? T a c o T u n e s

If you're doing a component set, it will come with the woofer, tweeter, and a crossover. That crossover is very important because it keeps bass signals from being sent to the tweeter. The factory tweeters have those built in, so if you were to just wire up a tweeter straight to the head unit, it would be fried pretty quick, and sound terrible the whole time.
Typically if I'm adding an amp, I dont like to leave anything on the radio power. Plus, aftermarket tweeters can handle (and need) more power than the radio can put out. I would just do it right the first time

 

Fair enough. So for the Front Doors it seems simple: Get a component set that will cover the tweeter and woofer (mid) for the door. The rear aren't you stuck since there is not a tweeter in the rear? What about get a component set for the rear and don't use the tweeter; trash it and just use the lowpass filter for the rear Woofer or leave the rear woofer as full range?

 

You'll pay more for the component set than a coaxial set for the rears. I'd just go coaxial (2way) and call it a day. Pretty much every component set available will have a matching coaxial set

 

Ok, still with Kicker KS I'd assume. Seems simple to install the components with tweeter harness you pointed me to. I also have a new truck and don't want to cut my factory harnesses.

 

Yep, KS as well as nearly ell other brands and price levels. Those just happen to be what I run

 

It seems all of the component sets I find says the tweeter has to be surface mounted. Certainly that can't be right.

 

Tweeters dont "have" to be mounted any specific way.

 

I think I got a bum amp. The rear channels are not getting nearly as much power and sounds kinda crappy. Will the key still pass signal through blown channels? I switched the fader to off and the signal was cut and then came back when it switched to on. I double checked my harness and all looks fine there.

 

Can you go into a bit more detail?

 

Hahah yup. I installed the key in my double cab using the Metra harnesses. I already have the CS and tweeter upgrade. The front channel sounds loud and clear, but the rear still sounds like it did stock.

Not sure what to do for troubleshooting but when I switched the fader switch to off on the key all the sound to the rears cut off as it should.

It’s like the key is just passing signal from the head unit through without amplifying it.

Thank you!!!

 

I have the kicker key amp on order and I am considering 2 sets of the 44KSS6704 speakers. For the rear door, couldn't I just use the crossover and Woofer and just not use the tweeter? Would that mess up the impedance?

 

Have you tried to increase the gain on the rear channel? It should be able to increase the gain. I am not sure how much gain can be applied, but the silkscreen says 0-11; perhaps 10dB

Also, did you follow the gain matching instructions in the manual?

 

Hahah I’m an idiot. I thought the gain was left and right channels. Thanks!!!

 

So you got it cleared up? The output from the factory radio is much lower on the rear channels, so the gain on the amp for the rear channels needs to be higher to make up for that lower input signal

 

Yea the low output to the rears and all the sound coming from the dash tweeters was messing with me. That and I thought the gain was L/R so I had it same between the two. Thanks again for all the info in this thread. I managed to learn a few things including how to solder.

 

Great skill to know! Biggest tip I can give is be sure not to use too much solder. That’s the mistake I see most. People put in so much that you can’t even see the wire strands anymore

 

Destin,
I posted a question above that I was hoping you could answer:
"I have the kicker key amp on order and I am considering 2 sets of the 44KSS6704 speakers. For the rear door, couldn't I just use the crossover and Woofer and just not use the tweeter? Would that mess up the impedance?"

Also, about the crossover dB settings for the tweeters, what is the ideal setting on that? I would assume it's best to leave it at 0dB.

 

The KS can actually be mounted in a coax configuration which would be handy for your scenario

As for the dB setting for the tweeters, that’s a personal taste. I believe mine are set to 0

There aren’t really “ideal” setting for audio equipment. Everyone’s ears are different so do what sounds best to you. I set them all at 0 in my shop and no client has come back yet asking to change them