Update about the sludge in oil filter

Yup

 

Still high grade type 3 base stock, which is Dino blood.

 

Last time I checked 300v had ESTERS ADDED which would not be a 100% man made oil with no dead Dino included...
Pretty sure the shelf bought Redline is the same.

 

Unless you're in super dusty/dirty conditions all the time, you're wasting your money unless it's the piece of mind you're going for.

 

Only in a handful of European countries like Germany for example, oil must come from Groups IV or V to be allowed called fully synthetic. For our naturally aspirated engines this matters as much as umbrella to the fish Change your oil every 5k miles and you're golden no matter what brand you use as long as the viscosity is correct, IMO.

 

There's no way this thread will degrade into the regular "change it every 3k, these filters are shit, run a catch can, etc..."

Nope.

No way that would ever happen here.

 

In most cases for average intervals, actually yes. As an example, Walmart’s Supertech 0W-20 Synthetic ($16 per 5 qts) works wonderfully in these trucks. I personally know a guy who runs it in both his fleet v6 Tacomas and he has nearly 350k miles between both of them. He runs his intervals to about 7500 and goes with Walmart’s rebranded oil because “its cheapest, rated, and does the job just fine.”
We could get into an oil debate and break down specific variables of how M1 may be slightly better, but under nearly any situation and running proper intervals, you’ll never see the “benefit” of Mobil 1 compared to any similarly rated oil.

 

Technically yes, there are only a few different oil makers. So it’s made by one of them

 

Especially if you change your oil every 5k miles

 

"Synthetic Oil vs. Conventional - A lab owner sets us straight." by BlackStone and Saab - https://bit.ly/2Mc0Gmo

Ed

 

You have to change your way of thinking and believe the oils' engineering standards/ratings/testing printed on the bottle over the marketing name. Now, could someone put absolute garbage in a bottle and reference oil testing standards and ratings that don't apply? Sure......and that is where the marketing hype and brainwashing begins.

 

This is a good video on synthetic oil testing done by a non-biased source (not someone working for or sponsored by any of the brands). They test more than just the two in the title

https://www.youtube.com/embed/TWuKvnCq1js

The cheaper stuff sold by Wal Mart and Amazon tested just fine, not as high as Amsoil or Pennz but still good

 

Alright so 5w-30 Rotella thanks for the info

 

This is an archaic thread, as oil specifications go.

Look how much oil has advanced since this posting - https://bit.ly/1aZhkyh

Ed

 

It’s similar to the different gasoline brands on the market. Shell, Chevron, etc. The gasoline is identical, it’s their own proprietary additives that sets them apart from each other. And with fancy marketing names to boot. Techron, V-Power, Invigorate, etc.

 

Not to shift this into a gasoline topic instead but as far as that goes, I always first make sure I'm getting gas from a top tier station and from there it's just a matter of who is cheapest. In my area (SoCal) that's almost always Arco so that's where I always fill up.

The Top Tier standard is probably a matter of debate among some but even if it's just for the peace of mind I don't mind paying extra for it. Seems that the non-top tier stations always look the sketchiest anyway.

 

Some of the "testing" methods (like the infamous "One Armed Bandit", or its variations) are widely debunked (https://bit.ly/2GXtif5) and worthless so his conclusions are inaccurate and worthless.

Ed

 

Sounds like you are the professional here, why don't you enlighten us with your infinite wisdom on which you prefer? Maybe take the belittling tone down a notch and you might get people to take kindly to your opinions.

 

Google is your friend.

Ed

 

...or you drive short trips in town like myself and don't put but about 3,000 to 3,500 miles a year on. I get mine changed once a year.