Install - Rhino-Rack Vortex RLT600 Roof Rack

**Pic Heavy**

So after trying the fixed position door jamb clamp on style Rhino Rack Vortex 2500 Rack and then the bed mounted Yakima Overhaul HD Rack, I finally settled on the ditch mounted Rhino Rack Vortex RLT600 System due to the adjust-ability, ease of removing and the fact that I wanted my Tonneau Cover back on all the time. I was lucky to have sold both at a reasonable price....live & learn.

Here's a link to the rack.

http://selector.rhinorack.com/vehic...ortex-rlt600-trackmount-black-2-bar-roof-rack

This system includes the following components:

Rhino-Rack Quick Mount Leg (x4) - RLT600
Rhino-Rack RTS Tracks - RTS547
Rhino-Rack Vortex Bar Black 54" - VA137B

This rack required the use of three of the factory threaded holes in the roof ditches along with 4 drilled and riveted holes (per side). Drilling through my roof was scary, but I'm confident the materials provided along with the marine grade silicone I used will prevent any leaks.

Tried to be as organized as I could.





First step was to remove the ditch moulding just to the back clip - I marked each side as it would need to be cut and fitted later.


Once that was removed I dry fitted each track to ensure I accurately marked each pre-tapped hole. I used an Exacto knife to remove the sticky membrane covering each hole (6).



After this step I used the included button screws to attach each rail so I could start drilling the remaining 8 holes for the rivets. There was a little coercion involved to get all the holes lined up, but nothing major. I just started each hole with the rails attached and then removed them to complete the drilling. I also skipped ahead a few steps and cut the ditch moulding at the rear to length as it was in the way and just flopping around.



The track (front edge) above conformed better once fully tightened.

Drilling Holes - the instructions called for a 3/16" bit with a depth (using a stop) of 3/16". That was not nearly enough to go all the way through. I'd say it was closer to 3/8". Got all 8 holes drilled cleanly and vacuumed up all the debris.



Then I proceeded to apply some high zinc primer to any exposed metal.


I let that dry for a couple of hours and then applied the supplied butyl pads over each hole.



Next was track install time. I removed the remaining backing paper from each butyl pad and applied a generous amount of marine grade silicone in each factory threaded hole. I carefully placed each track in place to ensure all holes were aligned. I also applied a small amount of silicone on top of the hole so it would be sealed under the washer. I saw some smear out after all were tightened. I then tightened all 6 button screws down. There's also a strip of thin rubber weatherstripping on the bottom of each track.



Next step was to rivet the remaining 8 holes. I again applied some marine grade silicone to each hole before inserting each rivet. I had never used a hand rivet gun before, so I practiced on some sheet metal last week. Picked up a pack of 100 rivets at Harbor Freight.



Next step was to cut the front end of the ditch channel moulding to length and clip back in place. There's a thin metal band in the ditch moulding. I used some heavy duty sheers. It cut through it quite easily.


Next I slide in the threaded plates for the mounting feet and attached the feet at the max spread of 38" for my canoe.




The rest of the install was a cakewalk. I had attached the bars to the foot mounts and left them loose so I could adjust for an even overhang on each side. The feet attach with these really easy tabs that lock into place when placed on the feet. To remove, you simply squeeze them together and it lifts right out. Put on the locking covers. There are supplied caps for the feet mounts when the rack is removed (I'll do that in winter).




Final step was to install caps where the track meets the ditch moulding. They were contoured to match the profile.



I'm quite happy with the final product.

 

Not bad for a ol' wood workin' pirate with a peg leg and a hooked hand.

 

Argh!!!

 

Nice, clean install, my friend.

 

It's pouring out now....good test to see if there's any leaks.

 

No sign of leaks after nearly an hour of heavy rain!

 

And a shout-out to @AltaTacoma for answering some questions I had on the install.

 

nice...ill look into this for my AC

 

Looks like a quality product!

 

Great job on the install and awesome write up! Enjoy the rack.

 

Another round of heavy rain last night....still dry as a bone on the inside.

Confident now that it's 100% sealed from the elements.

 

4+ month update. After snow, sleet & freezing rain and even 3" of rain in 12 hours a couple weeks back....no leaks.

 

Nice work!
Once this weather breaks here in Philly, I'm going to get some high octane marine grade silicone and redo both sides.
I watched a few vids and they all use a factory rubber washer. 1/4" should do. Lowe's or Depot.
Thanks for your help. Sincerely.
Gene

 

How secure do you feel the rails would be if you only used the factory holes with bolts and not drilled and used the rivets?

 

I wouldn't do/recommend that. It's engineered that way for a reason. The tracks wouldn't sit/seat properly.

 

I'm seriously looking into this rack system. Your right up and pictures were just what I needed to possibly make my final decision. One question, have you removed these at all. I will probably just use this rack during ski season. It looks like the rack can be removed fairly easy. The legs, just a few screws?

 

Thanks. Yes, the rack removes very easily. I've removed them a few times. Simply use the supplied key to unlock and remove the cover. Then you pinch these red tabs and the cross bars and tower lift right off/out of the mount. The rectangular mounts will be all that's left as they're attached to the tracks. They provide covers that snap into place. They're barely noticeable. I suppose you could remove the mounts if you wanted to just have the tracks.

 

On another note...we received close to 3" of wind driven rain last night. Still not a leak.

 

Sub'd

I'm looking into getting these too. Thanks for all of the great quality pics and taking us through step-by-step.

Also glad to hear that you haven't had any leaks thus far. It seems like so many people are scared away from these tracks because of having to drill into your roof, but it looks like if you go slow and have a drill guard for the 3/16" or 1/8" and just prep and seal everything up well, you've got nothing to worry about!

Thanks again @Sig45 and @AltaTacoma for the detailed post on these versatile cab tracks!