TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Lucky you man short circutis are no joke, especially when you are shorting directly at the battery!

Those reset breakers are SO useful when it comes to that stuff and I am really glad that @Iggy had me incorporate them with my relocate setup when I was doing it.

 

Good to know. I am getting ready to build some battery boxes for underneath my rear seats and tolerances are tight. @TodayWasTHeDaY completed this mod as well. I gotta tub something fierce up front and removing the batteries is step one. I thought I read about adding an additional frame grounding strap in the mix as well, but I plan on using 1/0 gauge leads as well.

 

I found that 33s auto-trim if you run them long enough

 

Whats the smallest pulley I can go before I "HAVE" to do some mods. Chatting with some of you it seems to be 2.7 or 2.8 but looking for a backup plan if I am not able to get the Valve body job, pulley wrap etc done when I install. Realistically I will have one weekend or even Saturday to do the core setup and do not want to get too deep in and be able to have some fun with the truck. ie: going 2.5 but not doing the ratiotek valve body work. Sounds like that would bad.

I did buy the qwikchange pulley setup so I can still do the work to get it installed and swap to the 2.5 later when I can get to the needed mods.

Still need to plan the install but debating on ordering a bigger pulley or even going the stock 3.0 to start.

 

I ended up cutting the back out of the plastic back cubby and purchased a Napa agm battery that was slightly smaller size wise than the stock battery so it fits perfectly with the seat closed.

 

Smaller battery still with good cranking amps?

 

Definitely better than stock. I forget which size I bought but it applied to older cars and had the posts reversed from what toyota specs, which didn't matter to me.

 

I mean “under” the back seats, not behind the back rests. I have a sub and multiple amps eating up that space. I am removing the under seat bin and cutting out that sheet metal with one group 34 AGM on passenger and driver side laying down.

 

Sounds badass, would have loved to go to that extent but I'm not a great welder and the project was involved enough for me while being my daily driver.

 

Well, talk is cheap at this point. I picked up a returned Optima at Vatozone for cheap so I can mock up with it. Pics will come when it actually happens

 

I look forward to seeing it. Where there's a will there's a way.

 

Yeah I am adding one tonight!

 

it just heats up and cools down at a slower rate I believe.

 

I use a USB port at the cig lighter plugs for voltage. accurate ..... maybe. but it's a reference point. and a cheap, convenient set up.

 

36.5" tires for sure dude!

 

I switched from a 24f to a Northstar 35 for less weight. Cranks better and it’s around 7-8 lbs lighter.

 

do the 2.5 and be set. just don't go madman without trans adjustments. this is a process brother. it will happen soon enough. or, if you have time and money break shit for fun! I'm relearning how to drive with a trutrac posi rearend. note to self- entering multiple curves at onramps with 8lbs of boost is a learning (curve)

 

if I could design a battery holder I'd love to have it at the frame on the passenger side. less taco lean. better center of weight, less in a crowded engine bay.

 

would we benefit from an intercooler double stack? like with a significant spacer could we see gans with two maggy's in there? should we get a spacer to do this? or is it gaining little for big bucks? feedback welcome .

 

There was a 4Runner build I liked many years ago where he relocated his battery to the rear spare tire area.