DFW RC - Home of BYSRacing

are the prolines hard to mount with the reg rings?

 

Im partial to the SCX10.2 myself, its a solid setup, weight is distributed where you need it, good turning radius and rich aftermarket. The TRX4 is probably better out of the box however. The newest player in the game, the Element Enduro launched at a really good price point, id put it above the SCX10.2 but below the TRX4 as far as out of the box performance goes, but hardly any aftermarket currently.

You cant go wrong with any of those.

 

I'm in the Ftw area and have done a little searching on CL. Thoughts on this?

https://waco.craigslist.org/tag/d/hewitt-axial-scx10-trailer/6955054616.html

 

Thats a great price to test the waters, but its the original model. It will be fun for a little while but will require some mods/maintenance.

 

The OG SCX is what I started with and it was a good rig, but suffers from terrible steering.

It costs about $150 for parts to get much more steering angle. SCX10.2 has different style axles that get more steering out of the box over the old kit. If you're patient you can usually find a used SCX 10.2 for about $200-250 with electronics and maybe a lipo battery.

 

There's a guy in Waxahachie that wants $400 for a 10.2, which sounds reasonable considering all the upgrades he's got on it, but that's well out of my comfort zone.

 

Yeah, something to do with how the lip of the tire seats. I don’t have any other experience with these to know how other brands work, but there is sooo little tolerance to let the wheel move before it’s now off the opposite side. Honestly, tempted to glue it....

Can stretch the BFG krawlers onto the methods, but once they’re gaped, they’re tainted forever. And I have a feeling the foams are going to be junk if I open the 2.2’s up.

 

That might be reasonable depending on what mods are done. The electronics (servo,ESC and motor) are where the money is at. What we would call a good servo is $100-$150, motor and ESC combo is also about $100 for brushed and up to $200 for brushless. Lipo batteries will cost you $25-50 each. Many of the aluminum /brass upgrades, suspension links etc are usually $25-50 per pair or set.

 

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/tag/d/waxahachie-axial-scx10ii/6952155588.html

 

From what ive learned, I wouldn’t buy used. If you can budget the kit route, we can guide you on proper electronics and you will build and know the car, which helps when it breaks. It will break. It can seem overwhelming when they’re new, but they’re all built really simple, and by building it, you get a full understanding how everything works. A little less budget, I would still recommend an RTR. You won’t have the knowledge of the build, but you’ll be able to see how it works box stock, and as you decide to upgrade, you’ll see how each mod effects the rig. Buying a used rig, you never really know if they knew what they were doing when they built it, how it was treated, etc. Unless you stumble across a random good deal, most people want too much for their rigs.

 

Kinda like when buying a real truck.

 

Siiiiii

 

pro line tires have a tapered bead, just about all of their tires do, total pain in the ass for beadlocks

way over priced, that motor esc combo is pretty bad for crawling also

 

Nothing will teach you perseverance like building RC stuff lol. Finally figured out these damn wagon wheels. I was on the verge of just glueing the SOB’s. I may or may not have tried to “tack” one of the tires to the wheel lmao. Oh well! Got it figured out. My dumbass even put one of the hubs on backwards with the hex on the inside. Wtf. Much skinnier than the old setup.

 

Noice! Figure out the fronts yet or no

 

7mm hex isn’t big enough, 12mm leaves me no axle thread, and is more spaced than I need. Gonna have to narrow down to 9-10mm hex and max have to drill the hub a little larger and get some barrel nuts to hold wheels on.

Went and checked out oak point with @Suprajim54 to Rey his 7mm hex’s. Most of what we do is above water, but lots of cob webs. Front end is makingcicning noises when in any kind of a bind, so need to break her open and look into that.

#spidermonkey

 

They’re only held on by a couple threads, so may end up needing some barrel nuts for the front, but the 12mm ended up being perfect. (I’m an idiot and must’ve not pushed it all the way or something earlier.)

 

Hows the track width?

 

I can still pose

 

More narrow. Even with the offset wheels, the 2.2’s width really stretched them bad boys. Looks like I’m about 10” in the rear, where I was 10.5”, and would assume the front to be about 10.5” with the 12mm hex’s. Tore the crawlers front end down today, to see about the clicking noise. Only thing I notice are some rough edges on the teeth of the ring and pinion, so I ordered some replacement overdrive gears and a fast eddy full bearing kit.

Also tore down the e trugguh and found what shut me down in the mains on Sunday. Center diff screw backed out until it became wedged on the motor mount. Rejuiced all the diffs; rear was pretty much empty from running the 2nd main with only one rear driveshaft, center was empty of fluid, but had a nice thick chunky mess going on, and the front appeared ok. Took her for a test run and she seems fine going forward, but she grinds and doesn’t move in reverse. Prob a sign of getting a new motor soon, lol.