Who has broken in a brand new 2.7 3rz?

So it's been a long time coming but I've finally gotten my freshly machined and rebuilt motor and trans back into the truck!

Question for anyone that has ever done this... did you do a special breakin period? I reassembled everything after having the block bored and the machinist (who specializes in VW motors but will rebuild any foreign 4 banger) told me I don't need to break in this motor, that a break in period is only for flat tappet motors. Other than doing an oil change at 500 miles and the adjusting the valves at 5k he told me to just drive it like normal


Do you agree? I know guys that built drag motors and they swear by running the motor about 1800 rpm for 3 seperate 15min sets... is that overkill for our application?

 

Aside from just generally going easy on it for the first thousand miles or so, I don't think there's any sort of "special" break in period.

 

Cool thank you.... now to just figure out why it cranks but won't fire

 

Check the fuses, double check the connectors, you have gas making it to the cylinders? Pull a sparkplug to see if it's wet with fuel?

 

My break in procedure on a dyno is as follows

Start engine , listen for abnormal engine noise then check for leaks

Double check oil pressure and make sure water temp is at thermostat temp

Run motor for a couple min at 3k rpm then let the motor eat with a 6800rpm pull

It's now thoroughly broken in !!!!

 

When is a 3RZ a drag motor?

 

I've checked all the plugs on the harness and they're clicked in, verified firing order and we're good there. No fuel on the plugs.. Cracked the banjo bolt supplying the fuel rail and it's got fuel at the rail. Does that mean the injectors are plugged? I bought a set of pink rebuilt injectors that came with a sheet showing their flow characteristics but it was an internet buy so that doesn't mean anything

 

Lol sorry I was ambiguous... they build V8 drag motors and gave me their breakin process

 

Thank you very much, I'll do my best to duplicate this process as soon as I can get it to fire haha

 

Drag race motors don't need break in even hydraulic roller motors don't require a break in procedure

 

They're old school backwood rednecks so I take what they say with a grain of salt lol

They probably still break in their motors that way cause they used to have to do it to older motors and they're set in their ways

 

Do you have spark? Not asking if your plugs and wires are good, but specifically when it's cranking over do you get spark? If yes there is spark, move onto the fuel filter and fuel pump.
If no spark, report back

 

Those pink injectors were true real OEM injectors right? Not that you bought from dealership but that they have their test numbers and stuff, can usually tell by looking closely if injector is counterfeit

 

That's how the race engine shop broke my sbc motor in . Ring seal technology has come a long way and just takes a few minutes to break in

 

It feels like break-in procedures are a little like "whats the best oil" questions. The procedure I used quite successfully on my motorcycle was to ride it, alternating between WOT and throttle closed, but keep it under a certain RPM for so many minutes, then stop, let it cool, then repeat the same thing a couple times. The theory behind it was maximizing cylinder pressure to set the rings. Not only was it lots of fun, that motor never burned oil after that and had plenty of power.

So, I dunno. Good luck!

 

Did a forum search for counterfeit injectors and found a post (I think you did?) Pointing out where test batch numbers are located.... I have indeed bought a set of fake ones

 

Ah shit man... Sorry to hear that hermano. Did you save the old ones by chance?

 

Yes I did, they're the smaller sized brown ones and I had my throttle body oversized... is it going to make a difference if I reinstall the old ones?

 

Hey bud, I work for one of the largest engine re-manufacturers and our policy is always to run a conventional oil for the first 500 miles and then switch over to the oil of your choice. Re-manufactured motors rarely get "live-tested" but what they do is more of a "simulation" test(run oil thru it, check compression, check oil pressure etc). Since they are not ran live, there is no way to heat that engine up to operating temperature. Go easy on it and change out the oil after the first 500 miles. I when you drain it, it will look glittery but that's normal. Afterwards, I would personally recommend running another oil change (2-3k) with conventional again and then moving over to a synthetic if that's what you desire. After that I would recommend HAULING ASS. If something is going to give it will be now. Most of our warranties happen withing the first 2000 miles of the engines being installed.

Of course right at install, run it. Check oil pressure, check fuel pressure, make sure there is no noises. Let it run. Let is cool and get back to operating temperature about 3 or 4 times. Then run it.

Hope this helps.

 

I don't know where I've put my inline spark tester... so I checked spark the small engine way, just pull it and hold it close to the head to see if there's spark. I did not have any on the one plug I tested.. is that an adequate way to test or do I need to find my tool?