Dakar leafs & settle

Up front I have 6112s with 650# springs set to the 5/4 setting. I've added a bit of weight over the front end.

I currently sit ~22" up front which is about 1.5" above stock for me. In terms of constant added weight I have:

• SSO slimline bumper (67 pounds)
• 10K Smitty synthetic winch (85 pounds)
• RCI skid plate trio (IFS, tranny, & T-case) (123 pounds)
• Mobtown Sliders (140 pounds)
• Prinsu roof rack (50 pounds)
• Recovery gear on the roof rack (25 pounds, maybe?)
• Tools under the rear seat (25 pounds, maybe?)
• Diamondback cover (80 pounds)
• Hi-lift jack (30 pounds)

At this weight configuration I am 23" on the driver and 23.5" on the passenger in the rear. There isn’t a whole lot of weight over the bed with this configuration which is how I run the truck during the fall and winter. I like the stance of the truck like this, but it is only this light have the year. If I could find a way to hold this height while adding more weight I'd be happy.

Then add the weight that is a constant on the truck in the summer when I put the bed rack and RTT on:

• KB Voodoo bed rack (61 pounds)
• CVT RTT (125 pounds)

At this weight configuration I am 22. 5" on the driver and 23.25" on the passenger in the rear.

Then when actually go on a trip I have another ~150 pounds in camping gear and extra fuel. At that point I go down to 21.75" in the rear (stock height is 22" mind you). It is this configuration that I am trying to fix with converting the MD leaf into a HD leaf. BUT, again, my big concern is that if I go too high with the HD pack at my lightest configuration, I am going to spend months tracking down vibes which I have none of. I suppose I could always leave the rack and RTT on to add some weight, or throw some weight in the bed.

 

I think based on all of that info you kinda just have to pick your poison, if you're going to stick with Dakars whether it be MD or HD, or go to a custom built pack that can do exactly what you are asking for.
Either you sag with the MDs or you have a little extra rake with the HDs when unloaded. Right now I'm 22 1/2" front and 24 3/8" rear. Perfectly even side to side both front and rear. Which means I have almost 2" of rake. This is because my 888s sagged to only 2" of lift which is why I'm going to bump them up 1/2" on each side to get me back to a 2.5" front lift and roughly 2.5" rear lift.

Edit. Also if you're only on 1.5" front lift you're gunna have choke rake from the HDs. So if you go that route you might need to figure out a new front setup

 

I guess I could go up to the highest setting up front to get close to 2”. But in that vein I didn’t wanna go much higher than 1.5” due to CV angles. I understand the predicament I’m in and the trade offs to all options. Do you think a custom pack is possible to lift 2” weather loaded or empty?

 

On the 6/5 clips the cv angels look really good and fins aren’t close to touching while static.. I can send you a picture if needed.

 

Well, i just may have to put up with a little rake then. I don’t want to go AAL and deal with sag and other issues down the road - I want to do it right with MD Dakars. My stock leafs replaced under warranty are about a week old so I’d be able to sell them too.

I’d be perfectly happy with 2.5” lift in the front so better than stock rake with only .5” more in the rear - not nearly as noticeable as a full inch. I don’t want to try and push 3”. And wreck my CV boots. Simply like a balanced look.

With the 2.7 things may be a tad different
Than most, so I’ll have to ask Marie at headstrong too what feedback she’s gotten.

 

You've got aftermarket UCAs though right? My other reason for wanting to not max out the 6112s at 6/5 was to ensure I'd get a good alignment with stock UCAs.

 

My alignment on stock UCAs even with the initial 2.75" lift with the 888s was fine

 

So I'm looking at my numbers again and I cleaned up how I have them in my notes. Honestly I think the biggest concern is the amount of lean I have in the rear and the fact that I'm getting hung up on my driver side numbers. If I only look at the numbers on the passenger side I honestly think it might be acceptable. With this in mind I'm thinking it might be best to start small and add the OME TP04 trim packer to start with. Here are my cleaned up numbers. If you look at the passenger side, it is always at least .5" higher than the driver side. If I were to bring the driver side up to match the passenger side more closely, I think I might be good. I could always revisit things after everything finishes settling. Keep in mind also my stock height was only 20.5" in the front, and with all my added weight on stock suspension was all the way down to 19.75" up front and 20.25 in the rear at full load.

Winter weight: Empty bed - Only weight from tonneau cover and Hi-lift (110 lbs. combined)
Front: Driver side 21.75" / Passenger side 22” (.25” lean)
Rear: Driver side 23" / Passenger side 23.5” (.5” lean)
Driver 1.25” rake / passenger 1.5” rake

Summer weight: Tonneau cover, Hi-lift, bed rack, and RTT (266 lbs. combined)
Front: Driver side 21.75" / Passenger side 22” (.25” lean)
Rear: Driver side 22.5" / Passenger side 23.25” (.75” lean)
Driver .75” rake / passenger 1.25” rake

Extended trip weight: All of the above weight plus extra fuel, food/water, and supplies (~400 lbs. combined)
Front: Driver side 21 7/8" / Passenger side 22 1/8” (.25” lean)
Rear: Driver side 21.75 / Passenger side 22.5” (.75” lean)
Driver 1/8” reverse rake / passenger 3/8" rake

While the lift in the heaviest configuration isn't as high as it could be in a perfect world, this setup is really the exception to how the truck is loaded up 90% of the time.

 

Very true. I’m curious how things change coil wise with the 2.7, ie, can I get away with 888 coils and not have ridiculous sag after 6 months because of the lighter front end...

Eying the icon coil overs right now considering they’re adjustable up to 2.75”. I just don’t want a super shitty ride either adding that much preload.

 

Just do your research on the Icons first...

 

Lol used the search function.. Scratch that idea lol.

Does anyone know if there’s a contact number for Headstrong anymore? Have their email, but couldn’t find a phone number.

 

Correct, JBA UCAs.

 

All I was getting at with Icon is that I have read several threads with shock failures and customer service issues

 

Just curious. What would you rather have more?

A more pleasant off-road ride or a stiffer road feel for handling?

Also, JBA or SPC UCAs

 

I’ll assume by pleasant Offroad you’d also mean a more plush ride on road as well which is what I’m after - smoother ride on road and Offroad. I’m not hitting any crazy trails, just light ones and a good amount of dirt trails/fire roads/Forrest trails while clearing 33s on -12 offset Ray 10s when I put them on.

Main reason I want TC UCA is perfect alignment with ease and a little more travel IF I need it.

I read longer Eibach springs can give that added lift without preloading the 5100s and without sagging like the 888s.

I’m open to other suspension/coilovers as well, I’m just set on running Dakars to at least make sure my rear doesn’t sag. Stock springs blow enough without AAL weight.

 

That’s a lot in one post...Yes, ok, “Plush” (you must be an STP fan )

I like my ext travel 700# coils. I can rip over potholes and fist sized rocks. Can’t speak for your tires...


As far as UCAs,

You will get just about the same alignment adjustment and travel out of the SPC UCAs (also JBA I assume). I run +3 degree caster (via stock adjustment) and my SPC UCAs are still in the stock config. Unless you are running monster tires and weird adjustments you really won’t need the TC UCAs unless you are just a fan of noisy uniballs...just sayin

 

Lol, my last Tacoma was a 2014 before I knew anything about trucks lifted from the factory with a shitty RC spacer lift, blocks in the back w/ stock suspension - horrible ride.

I’d like my suspension to be smooth as possible between 10-30mph over potholes, speed bumps, shitty road, etc. I won’t be flying down desert backroads or anything at 60+. I know some shock/coilovers shine at high speeds only. It’s honestly not a big deal in the grand scheme - anything is better than the block I had in the back of my 2014 aha.

And good to know.

 

My md dakars have settled a ton and it hasn't even been a year. This is with sliders and an alucab canopy which is pretty light. I'm hitting the rear bump stops pretty easily. It doesn't seem right and I'm in contact with arb to see what's up.

I'm on 33s in the pic with the canopy so they fill the wheel well a bit but you can still tell how much everything has settled. Top pic is on a slight downhill towards the front so the front looks especially saggy.

 

What’s the weight of that canopy? How high was the lift after install and what has it settled to?

I’m starting to think that the MDs really can’t carry much if any weight without losing a considerable amount of lift.

 

Blocks under your leaf spring don't do anything to the rear ride quality. They just lift your leaf springs. The leaf spring isn't under any pre load as a result of the the block being installed and unless you stay with stock shocks, you won't be feeling any extension top out. When I changed my leaf springs to the Dakar hds, and still had my stock length 5100s the ride sucked because the shock would constantly top out so I would feel a thump in the back of my truck. Once I swapped over to 5125s with the proper amount of extension the ride is super smooth. I don't ever top out anymore.
If you aren't going to be carrying a bunch of weight and you're only looking to go 1-2" of lift in the rear, a block isn't a bad route to go.