Who has broken in a brand new 2.7 3rz?

You know, I'm not sure about that. I'd imagine it would run with the old injectors but maybe wouldn't be able to take advantage of the over-sized TB bore? I think folks want the bigger injectors because they are going to forced induction and need a way to get additional fuel into cylinders. I think the ECM and sensors will be fine running the stock injectors with the new TB bore size. But I'm not 100% positive

 

You need it to be grounded. It might've been. It grounds through the threads when installed, so you want to hold the plug in the boot by boot while the electrode or threads or something is contacting the block or valve cover or something to ground. It is possible the ECM will not power the fuel pump if it does not detect signal from crank and cam position sensors, there may be other sensors it depends on too. So the gas making it to the cylinder can be a symptom of whatever reason you don't have spark. So fix the spark issue and the ECM may power the fuel pump as normal.

 

When I was reinstalling the crank sensor I thought I felt a "crack" but nothing looked broken (hard to tell behind the alt bracket) and it's not leaking oil.. if I did break the case would that effect the sensor? Is there an ohm reading I can do to verify if it's still good?

 

x2

 

I would imagine that yes it would affect the sensor. There is a measurement you can take, an ohm reading, I'd imagine it's in the FSM. I do not have one. And need to get a digital one.

 

I agree!

 

I got my rebuild from Yota1 so I followed their break-in procedure.

https://209yota1.com/p/engine-break-in-process

 

So I'm not getting spark, will the 3rz still send spark if it's not getting a signal from the crank position sensor? Also is it possible to test the CPS while it's still installed on the truck or do I have to remove it and bench test it (like I read in the 5vz repair manual)

Given its location I probably have to drain the engine of oil correct?

 

If the crank position sensor isn't sending a signal then that's a no go on spark. As for testing it i can't really give you an answer. On most vehicles it's right by the crank and easy to get to.

 

Could you be specific of which model year 2.7L motor this is. Does it have a distributor or coils on each spark plug?

It does sound like a sensor problem, since fuel and air are confirmed. I think the crank and cam sensors are dwell sensors that will either be 5V pulses or ground pulses. I'm not entirely sure how the toyota computer works, but I'm sure both sensors need to work- maybe one for spark and one for fuel injectors. On my older Jeep there was one 5V supply wire that supplied voltage to every sensor and was controlled by a relay in the power distribution box. I had a faulty relay and once I jumped the terminal over the truck ran fine. It might just be something that simple.

 

Where about on the block in the diagram is the crank position sensor at? Might not have to drain the oil. The oil level is prolly below that sensors opening into the block. Could always get to the sensor and start removing and if need drain oil, just snug up sensor and drain a quart or two and then go back to sensor removal. If that sensor is failed or damaged or for whatever reason the ECM doesn't see the pulse signal from the CPS then ECM will not power the fuel pump circuit.

 

It is a 1998 2.7 3rz with the twin coil pack ignition. At this point maybe it should be mentioned that I bought an aftermarket chinesium head from APR (I've done this once before and had no issue) but this time they sent me a head for a distributor ignition system ... they looked exactly the same in relation to all bolt and sensor holes and I pulled all the electronics from the current 98 head off the old engine, just used permatex and a freeze plug to block off the distributor hole

 

In relation to that diagram you posted the sensor is located in the timing cover where it bolts into the block by screw 11416 in the lower left of the top half of that picture

 

Okay I found it. Kind of in middle of image but pertains to upper image.
I do not believe the CPS resides below the resting engine oil level, so should be fine to remove while oil still in the engine.

 

You can use the original injectors, just having a bigger throttle body does not mean you need larger injectors... unless you have one of those new supercharger throttle bodies

 

Thankfully it's the stock TB that is just bored over so I'll reinstall the original injectors and pull the sensor to test it after work

 

Was wondering when one of you guys, the ones that know a but more than me, was gonna chime in here. I don't have all the answers for abeyancer! Thanks for checking in and responding hermano

 

The CPS should have a certain resistance. Find spec in repair manual. You can check it without removing it. Just unplug connector.

You can also check wave pulse with oscilloscope while cranking and compare to the diagram in repair manual.

You may get a code if the CPS was not working. Not sure if it would trigger the code while just cranking. Again, check the repair manual.

 

when you have her road ready you should not drive too long with a consistant RPM for an extended period. I had a new 944 turbo that was an oil burner and after other techs replaced 2 turbos it was dispatched to me. I got authorization to take the motor apart in the car and discovered that in every cylinder there was an "ring pattern" in the bore. Apparently the owner picked it up on Friday eve and drove to Vegas from San Diego and held it at 65 mph for the 5+ hours it took to get there. This is a Nikasil like bore and even that coating failed.