Long Travel BS Thread

I've got Glasswork's front and rears already, but they're starting to crack around the mounting points and are pretty faded since I never painted them.

According to John, the old Glassworks molds were getting pretty sloppy so they redid alot of the molds and fitment is almost spot on now. My passenger side front fender literally wouldn't mount correctly...only have 2 out of 4 bolts holding it under the headlight.

No factory colors, John sent me a link to the place that does his custom gel coats and I found the one that is closest to my paint color. An extra $100, but worth it IMO. After I paint them, any rock chips shouldn't be as painfully obvious as white would be.

 

Ahh I see. Well I’m glad they nailed the fitment down. I’ve always heard that’s the biggest complaint about going glass is the spotty fitment throughout the industry. If that gel coat is only 100$ and has Good UV protection. That’s not bad. Body shop would probably charge way more.

 

That is amazing. I am going to look into this... Yea using those up front as well would be like trying to push those damn Ikea carts straight.

 

https://classifieds.race-dezert.com/FOR_SALE:Class-9--156571

This one is "so low the price isn't published"

 

Upon further inspection and some Internet research, the jury is still out. I will see if deaver still offers them. I was also looking at pictures of my rear hanger and I dont know if those would work for a dmz SUA setup. There isnt much room between the shackle and hanger. If the shackle had room to articulate, the bolt that holds the spring to the shackle may hit the hanger.

I may however find some delrin bushings for just the shackle. Delrin is at least self lubricating

 

Ya I don't have any history with the baja bushings. I knew they didnt get super popular with race applications, but I thought they were still being used in crawlers.... As for the delrin, I'm only surmising here, but if your problem stems from the twisting force of articulation, the delrin would actually be worse than a poly urethane as it is quite a bit stiffer.

 

Yea, I actually meant just for the hanger shackle connection. I was thinking of having urethane in the spring shackle connection. Or investigate if I have enough room for a zerk fitting in the hanger shackle connection. And running urethane again.

I'll call deaver and see if they offer those Baja joints. I realized that I was thinking they would go in the shackle/ hanger position, when in reality they would go in that spring /shackle position. That being said,I think they would work, but don't know how long they would last. If I can service them somehow, they might be decent. I am not racing the thing so if I could get 2-3 years out of them that would be a plus.

 

Called Deaver and they discontinued them a while ago. They said the liners would wear out too fast and when it came time to reorder the supply, they said the cost wasn't beneficial. Looks like I'll continue to be run urethane.

 

The only thing he's bad at is the upsell for additional features. Bumper ends, gas door delete, etc.

 

John at ADV is the son of the owner who owned Glassworks.

His customer service is top notch over his dad.

Same product, different company name

 

That’s in the town next to me if someone needs a test drive impression lol

Not too many people buying glass for first gens but it’s a mixed bag either way with fiberwerx and adv. Sloppy molds would make sense - not enough customers warranting new ones being developed.

 

I think it helps too the John knows how to not too extended with things. It’s great that adv is such a better outfit then when it was run by his old man. At the very end they started to develop a pretty bad rep with unfulfilled orders. If my glass ever gets too banged up I would probably get adv.

 

100%

 

Reading your install directions made is seem alot harder than hanging mine was. The adv went on pretty easy, except the front of my truck is bent ...

 

Besides a post here or there I never did a write up on my fender install as I didn’t take any photos of it when I first did them. Fenders can come off in like 8 min as long as you know to disconnect enough of the front bumper bezel on the sides. Where it can take a while is in the headlight area. Every mold is going to be different depending on how conservative they made the molds there.

If you are talking about the bedsides...I just wanted folks to see a step by step so there was no room for error. The install wasn’t bad at all for me...just don’t like how I have gaps above my taillights when that appears to be a common symptom to the McNeil’s.

 

Sick, thanks D, yeah I especially need to find out information on the HD version of the H70 since I'm a 2nd gen whale. I just ordered 2.0x2 hydros and already have an Archive hanger setup with a 4.9" shackle. It's no DMZ kit, but I want to see if I can get something to cycle cleanly with it and my 14" shocks.

See if @Anthony250 has any insight when he logs on.

 

I forget who was asking, but here’s some more of the KC highlights custom tail lights I’m working on. One side basically done.

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Nice work. Looks badass.

 

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Clean work. I like that a lot. Need to do the same

 

I think it gave him 4-5” of lift. Not sure if it was at first or after it settled. He's 2wd w/ lift spindles.