Installing new 3rd member - advice on E locker?

Installing 4.56s 3rd member into the rear tonight, does anyone have tips with dealing with the E locker? Or is it just a matter of pulling the actuator and everything else is straightforward? I was told by my local forum crew that I may need to manually lock the locker before removing the 3rd. Tips?

 

The locker must be in the locked position to remove or install the 3rd, clearance issue. This can be done electrically or manually. Manually = pull actuator, look into the hole, flip the locker rack gear (with screwdriver tip) to the lock position (toward the drive shaft). Might need to rotate the driveshaft to get the splines to line up.

The actuator pinion gear needs to be timed to the locker rack gear on install if the actuator has been removed, should be checked regardless. This is most easily done with the 3rd on the bench. The long studs that go thru the actuator prevent the FSM timing procedure if they are in place and the 3rd is installed. The studs can be removed to do an "in situ" timing procedure. You could also study the intended relationship (FSM) of the actuator/locker gears and "fake it" with studs in place. It is possible to be one tooth off with the locker seemingly working properly, strength will be compromised.

I guess you know the axle assemblies must be pulled out 3-4 inches. A potential hazard here is the brake hard line being seized/rusted to the barrel nut. If it is and you don't have a spare hard line handy, just unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. Then hold the nut with your line wrench and unscrew the wheel cylinder from the line instead of unscrewing the line from the cylinder. Or unbolt the hard line mounts to get enough "slack" to slide the axle out enough, hard line bending required, but saves a brake bleeding operation.

On install, the ring gear likes to hang up on the housing. If this seems to be happening give the pinion flange a little rotation with your third hand or slide a thumb over and rotate the diff ring gear a bit. All this while not exceeding the open working time of the RTV sealant. In other words practice the install moves "dry" a couple times first.

When all buttoned up go to the paint locker and select a 7 year old can of Rustoleum or similar paint. Should be thinner than tar and thicker than my coffee. Slather this over every seam/joint on the actuator and it's joint to the 3rd, thicker the better. You are keeping water out. If you really want the "I did all I could" feeling some folks have been known to fill the little pocket between the top of the actuator and the 3rd with some form or sealer or RTV. Type or brand is not critical, your just preventing road salt/mud from filling/sitting in the pocket.

Off the top of my head that's about it.
Timing procedure if you or others don't have it.

 

Lmao hahahaha

 

It's been called a fat head.

 

I imagine you aren't immersed in Tacomas all day every day anymore, so it just blows my mind the degree of detail you remember about them. It's almost laughable, hence the rolling laughing dude in my previous post

 

Some people are just the "I've forgotten more than most people know" type people...

 

It's definitely the golden years but I still have some choice customers, keeps me off heroin.

 

Didn't realize you were working on others stuff as well. Very cool

 

Not that Dirtypool description wasn't lacking. Lol.

The FSM has some pictures.