Tough plugs to pull...why?

I hit 120k and did the spark plugs (and filters, fluids, etc.) Today. One issue I ran into (and I do them every 30k so three times already) was that the plugs were a biatch to get out. I'm talking I had to crank the living shit out of them to the point that I had to use a breaker bar on the middle plug driver's side each and every turn. The closest one to the firewall driver's side came out nice and normal, but the other 5 fought me like a cat that didn't want a bath.

Any ideas why? I always use silver anti-seize. Only torque to 15 ft lbs. Engine was dead cold from being parked over night.

I'm a big strong guy and these puppies gave me an upper body workout.

 

Does the plug thread back in easily? Get an endoscope to check the threads on the heads to check for cross threading. Also check for a leaking seal that may have allowed oil to cake the plug. Aside from any errors you may have made, like using thread locker on that plug by mistake, I cant think of anything else.

 

How tight is the outside of the socket to the inside of the plug well in the valve cover?

 

was engine cold the last time you installed them?

 

I was told to use the copper anti-seize for high temp applications (right after installing the plugs with the silver)

 

When they are tight like that, loosen them about a half turn, hose some WD-40 down the tubes and let is soak for about 30 minutes. That should help them come out a little easier.
I know you're done with them, but maybe this will help someone else. I had to do this on my Corolla a couple of years ago.

 

Silver anti-seize did the same to me. I don't think it's meant for hogh temp areas.

 

Everything went back together fine and as easy as they should. I was a little more liberal with the anti-seize this time. Not sure if that was good but we'll see in 30k.

I don't remember the engine temp last time I did it but I assume it was cold because I usually work on my cars on Saturday mornings so I don't have to deal with burning my hands.

 

My first question is why are you changing your plugs every 30k miles - that was what we did 25 years ago before the new iridium ones. Book says at 100k and did my first change at 102k and they were all OK still. Permatex anti seize temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Were the plugs you used correct for the vehicle (thread pitch) also. Used Denso Iridium plugs

$59 SK20HR11 ---- IRIDIUM PLATINUM power pack Spark Plugs -- # 3421 ----- 6 PCS NEW

SK20HR11 gap 0.044” for my 2009.

 

My 2015 6 cyl says 30k in the book. I’m almost to that point and haven’t decided if I’ll do it or not.....I seem to remember reading somewhere that Toyo recommends copper and that’s why.

On my 2000 I changed at the 100k mark with Iridium

 

Sorry about that looked it up and newer are 30k for no reason I can really find except smog related. Still seems stupid but Toyota is again covering themselves on some smog warranty component would be my guess.

 

I use anti-seize on my plugs but run my engine for a couple minutes before removing them. Aluminum expands quicker than steel. Never had an issue.

 

4 cyl and 6 cyl call for different plugs at different intervals..

 

I changed my plugs yesterday for the second time at 65k. The last change was at 30k. I had used silver never seize at that time. The plugs came out easily with no issue at all. Installed the same type stock Denso plugs this time ,again with never seize. I coat the threads evenly all the way from the end to the gasket. I recommend having a properly a fitting spark plug socket ( I used a 5/8"), several longer extensions and a wobble socket adapter on the socket end. The front plug on the drivers side needed the adapter to relieve an angle bind. The plugs were in good condition but the gaps were quite wide ranging from .048" to .055" at the most. I also reinstalled the coils with a small amount of silcone dielectric grease spread around the end opening of the boot. I used never seize again on the coil bolts. Change was done on a cold engine by the way. ALWAYS start new plugs by hand and twist in by hand as far as possible before using a ratchet to tighten.

 

I've done 2 plug changes and both times the plugs came out and went back in like butter.

I've never used antiseize on a plug...ever. And I've been wrenching on cars for 35 years.

 

Well, I'll see what happens in 30k. Like I said, I tried to go a little more liberal with the anti-seize this time. I've always done my own service on my vehicles for the last 30 years so I'm not new to it (I thread by hand first, etc.) That's why I was so shocked how hard it was. I honestly kept stopping and checking the old righty tighty lefty loosey rule because I thought maybe I was cranking them in instead of out. I was nervous I was about to do some damage for sure, especially that 5th one when I used a breaker bar.

And the plugs looked "fine" when I pulled them. No indication as to what may have been wrong.

 

Oh that would suck...

 

This same thing happened to me on my last plug change. Previous couple of changes it didn't happen then some very hard to remove plugs on my third change. Nothing looked wrong with the threads on the plugs and the new ones threaded right in. Was disconcerting for sure. I remember thinking oh god what do I do if the threads strip out of the head.

 

Good to know I'm not the only one.

And definitely not threadlocker. I got the big jug-o-silver-goop.

 

use a thread chaser with grease in the gap to catch all the debris