Long Travel BS Thread

sweet.

You gonna leave it like that or add some sort of plexiglass or some sort of cover?

I think it might be smart to add a resistor to the running light so you're not blinding people just driving around with your marker lights on you can do that with the actual brake light one haha

 

Cool that's not bad, do you know if his front hangers were modified? Looks like they list them as 61 1/2" springs, doesn't seem like they would need to be modified, deaver's page just lists it like that on the website. I wouldn't mind if they just settle to 3" under weight. Since I'm 14" shocks under the bed, more up-travel from ride height the better. Going to be redoing my lower shock mounts of course.

 

We’re looking into possibly refitting the lens off the oem light since they should be close. But if it doesn’t work then oh well. As for the resistor, these are very bright, but they don’t throw very far so no one should be getting blinded by them.

 

For first gens sua with those springs moves the front spring hangers forward. I think there were at least three 2nd gens here with them - project apocalypto, the mod with the white race truck’s race truck I *believe* and a silver one the guy pretty much built on his. This is the only one I could find where a 2nd gen uses the same 12” shackle over the frame like first gens. How would you mount yours - inverted like a 2nd gen or similar to this.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/project-apocalypto.233960/#post-5525657

 

Are you using one red as the taillight and one as brake?

 

Yep

 

Inverted since I'm a 2nd gen and that's what I have now. I already have extended shackles and hangers on the truck, which our local @glorifiedwelder installed. It seems the H70 looks the best off-the-shelf leaf pack I've seen at so far. If it's arched like they state, then it'll get the rear high enough to put my 14" bypasses in a better position tube-wise without having to weld the lower mount super low. Just as long as it mounts and cycles with somewhat decent geometry.

 

Lights look good dude! U might want to lay some DOT reflective red and grey tape underneath since u dont have a reflective housing anymore and it's hard to see the light from the side...that's what I did...to be more cop friendly

 

That would be pretty nice - almost like first gens where you piece together something that works. How much was the archive stuff you paid for?

 

Yeah, Eric at Archive originally designed the hangers and extended shackles for use with SUA, and he even makes a spring perch for the conversion. So it's just a matter of making it all work together. I'll probably message him too since he's a dealer for Deaver. The only issue I see is that most SUA kits angle the hanger more rear-ward than the Archive kit does so I'm not sure if that could pose problems.

The hanger setup with shackle config was about $600 w/ cross tube that bolts from hanger-to-hanger. The 14" shock relocation towers were another $400. I have yet to buy the spring under conversion kit, and 2.0x2" hydro bumps are on order from Locked Offroad in Temecula (they offer 10% off for TW members). It's going to be a fun setup to tune.

Edit: Here is is jacked up with some cheap OME dakars and excluding a plate bumper I added:

 

Couple light fabrication things that may not be purdy but they’re sturdy! Been double and triple welding stuff sometimes for more connection and other times just to get better or experiment on unusual types of metal.





Passenger side fits 35’s now.

 

How many of you have replated your bypasses (zinc)? When I fix my spring hanger I was thinking about doing a complete disassemble on my 3- tube bypasses.

Or other body coating options?? Steel-it??

I know I can disassemble them but I don't think I can reassemble them myself. Looks like I would need some nitrogen in order to set the floating pistion position before filling with oil??? I know I can find a place to charge with nitro to 200 psi, but the pre position is what I wasn't sure of.

 

You can just use air to set the piston. Then let the air out before they add nitrogen. As for coatings, I’ve seen a few people use steel-it and it looked good.

 

What thickness metal did you use for the firewall?

 

Getting the re-plated with zinc will give you that chrome look again but it will show the wear that is already there. Zinc does't fill any irregularities so you can see everything. Some guys have started using Steel-it and it comes out looking good. I've seen Cerakote becoming more popular now too and its a thicker finish that zinc so it'll cover irregularities.

Where are you located?

 

I think we could separate my old lights and see if it’s worth using the reflective items from them? If not then the reflective tape could be an option.

 

Steel it with cobwebs haha

16 gauge but I used a little 1/8” for the body mount reinforcement.

 

Salt Lake City.

 

I think steel it may be the better option. I can have a local 4x4 company service them and I may just mask off the bodies . My tires rub on the tubes at full bump but that's the long travel life.

 

Steel-it will be the way to go for you then if you rub. Rubbing will take any coating off no matter what it is. At least you could touch it up with Steel-it.