2006. 4.0 V6 head gasket overheating > REBUILD

what are we talking about here. Red arrows or black?
Bearings are called 'shells'.

It looks to me like it needs 4 bearings and 8 sleeves.

 

If they are saying you only need 1/2 of 1 bearing shell up front.....ok. Strange but ok.

Should be evident that there is light coming though under the cams w/o 1 if needed.

It looks like they ALL have shoulder/ reliefs on the head to hold 1. Does the 1 shell 'kinda' fit in the other 'saddles'?

 

Look at number 15 - it shows an upper and lower for the cams. When looking at the list, it shows "lower mark #1", "lower mark #2", and "lower mark #3". I'm thinking maybe there are three different lowers for each cam based on position in the head. The uppers appear to be the same. The "14" in the list is a misprint, it should read 15. These pics are for a 4Runner, as that site had better graphics. The Tacoma graphic sucked but listed the same exact bearing parts as #15. Just going off pics here, not really sure. Trying to help.

 

The passenger side intake lower shell is the only one I had.
Foreman said in his repair manual that's all it shows it needs.
So hopefully that's all it needs.

 

I see on the #15 the upper sleeve.
The only one with 2 half sleeves is the right side passenger intake cam.

 

The rest of the cams have 1 half upper sleeve inside the housing where it bolts to the head.

 

Just curious, do you know what your build date is? Just wondering if you have the old head gasket or the updated one. I guess somewhere around November or December of 2005 is when they switched to the updated version.

 

'Mark' is used for discrepancies in factory machining specs.
You only have to use if replacing bearings w/o machine work.

I don't know what to say about the lack of bearings on each cam.
Maybe only that one has lateral force applied?

 

No clue.

 

Maybe. This is my first big job like this all at once. So I'm trying to take it easy and go slow.

 

Your build date is on the sticker on the door jamb on the driver side.

 

Ok I'll check tomorrow.

 

I'm now cranking the engine so I can see my chain go around and double check the function of everything.
Once in a while when my chain goes around it gets slightly loose and some points then tightens up again. Is this normal?

 

Sounds like you're getting close to wrapping this up, OP!

 

Almost. Almost. Slowly but surely.
This is my first big job all at once.

 

No oil pressure on the tensioners.

 

So this is fine? I figured if all 3 chain tensions are getting loose at some point it's normal.

 

I'm not really sure, as I haven't dry cranked the 1gr, but I think you'll want to be careful that you don't skip a tooth on the timing if you don't have good tension on the chain. It could simply also be attributed to the difference of being on the compression stroke or not...

But before you button it up, I would recommend that at a minimum you find TDC and confirm that your timing marks align.

 

I did. It was at TDC and all my alignment Mark's aligned correctly.
I did this 2x just to double check everything.

 

Anyone have a picture of the rear ground straps that bolt onto the rear of the heads?