Anyone know a solution for vibration and steering wheel shake after new tires?

I would stop driving your truck immediately until you correct the lug nut issue.

In the end you are going to save money getting rid of the incompatible wheels with barely any threads holding on the lug nuts and picking up a set of OEM wheels. There are plenty for sale on every region of Craigslist.

Because you know what is more expensive? This: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-fell-off-today.620899/

 

The rims I have are compatible with my vehicle and made for it. The idiot who previously owned it used the OEM lugs instead of the ones for the aftermarket rims, but the wheels themselves are for the tocoma. I’ve ordered the lugs required and will have them by Saturday. I appreciate your concern and i plan to install the new lugs before hitting the highway. Thanks

 

That there was me. 6k in damages and could have been much worse.

 

Any update OP?

 

New lugs will be here tomorrow and next weekend I will have a road force balance done. Will update Saturday!

 

What caused the wheel break if you don’t mind me asking? Wrong lugs? Or lugs not tightened properly?

 

I had the proper lugs but they somehow came loose. One lug snapped off and the others sheared off.

 

Possibly a shop that didn’t properly tighten the lugs when installed maybe? Maybe forgot to tighten them all?

 

i had retorqued them afterwards but i cant confirm. Truck is almost fixed now but it just goes to show that lug nuts arent something to mess with.

 

I had a vibration after putting new rims and I used a hub ring to fill clearance between the hub and rim hole. After looking, I ordered a set of extended length nuts from Amazon that had a 1/2 long inch tip which fit into the rim hole and provided a lot more threads on the stud. Rule of thumb is that if you have 12mm studs, then you need at least 12mmm of thread on normal passenger vehicle - hard use should be 1.5 times or 18mm. I had around 16 - 18 mm after putting on new nuts and now vibration free. Hope this helps. P.S. extended nuts a lot cheaper than new studs and no problem putting back on old rims.

 

Very true. I’m waiting for proper lugs to come in for mine. I’ve checked these daily to make sure there alright until they can be replaced. Did you experience any signs before hand or did it happen all at once? Again I hate to pry just curious.

 

thats good to hear. I had driven it for 5 months before experiencing any symptoms. And then the symptoms happened all at once, steering wheel started shaking and within 30 seconds the wheel broke off.

 

That sounds terrible. Sorry about what happened I know that sucks. Mines been shaking since I replaced tires. Had an alignment done. Checked the front end suspension and all joints. Multiple balances and rotations and still can’t figure it out. Either way it’s good no one got hurt in that incident.

 

As others mentioned, you could try having the tires road force balanced. Mine were road force balanced from Discount Tire and didnt have any shakes from them.

 

Yes sir. Appreciate yours and everyone’s advice. I’m going to have a road force balance done this Saturday. Local shop doesn’t have one but found a place less than an hour away.

 

There is no doubt that the lug nuts are wrong and most likely the cause of your problem. If you took it to a shop, I wonder why they didn't notice the lug nuts being wrong. Your rims were made to fit more than just the Tacoma. There are tons of rims on the market that are made to fit multiple cars. From my experience, sometimes they are more trouble than they are worth. "Results may vary" but I've dealt with some aftermarket rims that were made to fit multiple cars that looked great, but never really drove right. If the new lugs don't work, try putting the stock wheels back on. That way you can eliminate a problem with the truck itself.

 

Note what to look for, the chrome lug posted earlier with the flat seating face with not work and will be just as bad as the original nuts. The black lugs you pictured, see .25" shank and 60 degree shoulder. Must have both of those specs. Although I am assuming the wheels right now have 60 degree shoulder and not the flat shoulder on the currently used lug holes.

 

I’m having a similar but not exactly the same issue. Never knew that torquing the lugs could make such a difference. I’m learning a bunch.

 

Get them road force balanced

 

He's right. I didn't see the 60° shoulder. The picture I used was for stock alloy's that have a flat top well.

Goes to show how important it is to keep the right lugs with the matching wheels. They do need to engage a certain amount of threads so that should be measured unless ordered specifically for those wheels on that truck.