2.7 Clutch Replacement

I'm getting ready to replace my clutch, it has always made noise when cold, and is starting to give me problems (154K).

I've done a 1988 Toyota 4x4 clutch, so I'm familiar with the process. I had to to block the engine (2.4) under the oil pan so it wouldn't fall when the transmission was removed.

The maintenance manual says nothing about blocking the engine, does anyone know if that's required, or are the motor mounts back far enough to support the engine with the transmission removed? It looks to me like they are, but measure twice, ...

 

No need to block the motor when removing the trans. Also no need to disconnect any hydraulic lines for the slave. Simply remove the two or three bolts on the bell housing for the slave cyl and then move it out of the way. This will eliminate the need to bleed the system when youre done.

 

If you have any questions along the way, dont hesitate to ask, ive dropped my trans about 5 times now so its like second nature for me

 

Be right back...

 

I tried to search my thread, but doesn't look like I really did a "write up". Gideon did: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/better-clutch-for-2tr.144555/
I followed this and it was perfect! Yours should be the exact same since you have an earlier 2nd gen like his.

 

I would recommend taking the bolts out of the fan shroud and also supporting the oil pan with a bottle jack- you can then lower it to improve access. I also loosened the engine mount bolts to increase the angle as I don't want to stress the rubber. You can barely see the top of the jack here under the section of 2X4. The 2X4 on the crossmember is holding the flywheel in order to tighten the bolts. You'll want to support the engine to tighten the flywheel bolts- which are TTY and must be replaced if you remove the flywheel.

 

Thank you all very much, this will be my labor day project!

I almost forgot, do you ever have trouble with the transmission input shaft lining up? I have the clutch alignment tool, but was wondering if the slots aren't quite in alignment with the splines, do you back it out and rotate the flywheel slightly?

The last time I did this was in 1995 and my memory is spotty...

 

@sodak the only blocking/jacking that might be required is after you are ready to put the trans back in. You may need to lift the front of the motor up a little (this moves the back side down) and this will help you line up the input shaft of the trans with the pilot bearing/motor

 

I supported my engine with another Jack. Drilled a hole into a 4x4 block for the oil pan drain bolt.

The first time, I didn't get things aligned right and did have to take it all apart. Likely due to simply bleeding the slave cylinder, so definitely do it.

 

To aid transmission installation I bought a couple of long bolts to use as studs. I got fine threaded bolts from McMaster and cut the heads off and threaded two into the block to use as coarse guides to help align the bellhousing to the dowels in the block. I think I bought two M10 and two M12 fine thread. I can check if you want. I had problems as I'm sure one of the dowels was slightly out of position tolerance- trans/bellhousing was a PITA to remove and install, and I ended up installing a new transmission and bellhousing, so the bellhousing wasn't the problem; I think one of the dowels on the engine was a few thousandths out.

Yes, I also drilled a hole in the 2X4 for the oil pan plug! I forgot about that.

The final act of pulling and installing the transmission is definitely a two person job. With the transfer case installed it is very well balanced if you make a wood adapter to mate to the mount. I'll find my post on that but basically use a 2X4 and drill a hole thru it for the cylinder that protrudes from the bottom of the mount. You can't see it in the picture but there's a section of 2X4 on the jack saddle.​

Edit: I used an Aisin (OE quality) clutch kit that I got from Rock Auto- came with the alignment tool and also a throwout bearing.

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There's a chance that you'll have to rotate the output shaft of the transmission to get the input shaft's splines to align with the clutch disc. So it's a good idea to have it in gear before you find out it's misaligned. This is easier than rotating the engine.

 

Get one of these, it's a life saver Also, its 100% not necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulics. I would highly recommend not fooling with this if you can avoid it. Adjust the clutch pedal pushrod first, and if the release point isnt within spec, then give it a go bleeding the system. Speaking from experience, if you dont know what you're doing when bleeding the clutch, it can turn into a nightmare in a hurry

 

My adventure here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5-speed-mt-no-reverse.558863/#post-18254688

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/recommend-me-a-clutch.597527/#post-20231240

I bled the clutch hydraulic system as the transmission came with a new slave cylinder. I did it solo and it only took 5-10 tries/pedal pumps. The pedal stays down so one person can do it.

 

Thanks everyone, great advice here! I will follow your recommendations. Fortuately, I have a store close by that rents that transmission jack (or one just like it).