Problems with URD Throw Out Bearing Kit? Bad Hydraulics? Need Help

Welp, truck is scheduled for a second tranny drop at the end of the month (wont go into gear anymore). Between the shops testing and my own we've ruled out a hydraulic issue. We're completely baffled at this point that it could fail in exactly the same way, IE, I think there's a very low chance that two pressure plates from two MFRs could have both slowly failed with the only symptom being that the clutch won't disengage. Right up to the point that it doesn't work anymore, I had no slipping (even at 6 pounds of boost) and smooth engagement.

I've posted a pic below of the URD Stage 2 pressure plate that came out the first time - The only thing of note is the paint flaking around the retainer springs. URD says this is normal, the shop that pulled it out says it's not. I'm reluctant to even send this back to URD for testing since it costs $100+ to ship anything from AK.

Have any of the taco gurus out there seen anything like this?



tempted to go back to stock at this point, but from what I've heard an OEM clutch doesn't last more than 10k on a supercharged rig.

 

Just got the truck back... Turns out all of the pressure plate bolts backed out. So that explains the disengagement issues *facepalm* A little embarrassing that I didn't even check those this time around.

They are ARP bolts and the shop says they were torqued to factory spec when they did the clutch install - What are the chances that all of these bolts backed out if they were indeed torqued to spec? it seems unlikely. This time they're overtorqued to 18lbs and loctited, so hopefully this is a done deal.

 

Dang dude.. glad you got it figured out

 

Just had the exact same thing happen to me.

My pressure plate bolts backed out as well. Now locktited to 24ftlbs. And look what it did to my TOB...

 

Hi, new here and that looks harsh Athlaos. I am about to pull the trigger on a URD stage 2 and heavy FW and was trying to look into the whole hydro tob conversion which no longer seems to be on the URD site which brought me to this thread. Given that looks like a fragged hydro I'm starting to think maybe there were some issues with them? Not sure just a guess. So far as I can see it looks as though the sleeve and conventional style tob is our only available upgrade option then currently? Any insight is greatly appreciated.
as for the pressure plate bolts I read somewhere about making sure powder coat was clear of dowel holes to prevent torque down issues. Personally I never do a clutch install without thread lock on fw and pp bolts.
The paint peel looks like it jut got a little warm to me cvonhuene.

 

Oh hey cvonhuene, Did the same shop do the work on both installs? If so you might want to find a new shop minimally.....

 

Hah! yeah, same shop. They seem honest and knowledgeable and the clutch has worked excellent (at least immediately after installation) both times. Unfortunately there's just not many options up here for reputable mechanics that are willing to work with aftermarket parts :/

All I know for sure at this point though is that the URD pressure plate (in the image above) worked great for 6 months, at which point the clutch would not disengage. The shop replaced JUST the pressure plate, and it worked after that. I'll be keeping an eye on the bolts for sure though. Now that everything is up and running I'll finally send that pressure plate back to URD and we can find out if something failed.

Also yes, to my knowledge the URD sleeve kit is the only upgrade option. I can't personally speak to it's effectiveness since there were no issues prior to the install.

 

Ouch! I hope the new setup works for you, and thanks very much for the torque numbers Looks like you have a monster rig

 

I asked URD if the reason they don’t offer it any more is because there were issues, and they didn’t have an answer, at least not one they wanted to give. They didn’t even say yes or no if it would be available in the future. I am stuck with it now because I cut off the quill of the transmission. I replaced the bearing when mine failed due to backing out pressure plate bolts and it’s been fine since... although now only a few days.

Given that the pressure plate issue was the cause of the failure, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the hydro bearing kit itself from a design standpoint.

 

Thanks. It’s been working great since I replaced the bearing!

 

The reason the bolts backed out is because the factory torque specification is not high enough when you add a beefier pressure plate. This is why I pointed out you need to have someone depress the clutch pedal while torquing the bolts after final assembly. With the clutch pedal depressed it releases the pressure plate and helps shove it against the flywheel so the bolts aren't having to overcome the stiffer pressure plate. I promise you this was the case with the first one as well. With the factory torque you will be lucky to get the outer edge of the pressure plate to contact the flywheel and it definitely will not be seated uniformly across. As you continue to operate the clutch the bolts can migrate out any time the clutch is depressed since they are not tight against the pressure plate when it's shoved against the flywheel by the releasing action. I'm glad you've got it fixed.

 

if no money just float your gears lol

 

If anyone has the urd fix hydro bearing kit and has these issues, I know a way to fix it. It'll cost aprx. 400 shipped for the right tilton bearing kit 60- 6105 for the T56. It fits right onto the urd fix adapter. I like the idea for locktite and 24 ft lbs with ARB hardware. I did that but used stock torque 14 ft lbs. If you torque, locktite, install this bearing, and eliminate the clutch plate bearing face adapter and retaining ring you will have a reliably working heavy duty clutch. Mine is the urd stage 3, very happy with the smoothness over the 3+ disc.

Like the original poster, this has cost me several bearings, configurations, and 4 tranny drops to get figured out. If you're tired of that.. I have additional note and instructions I'll share. Email me at akakrill@gmail.com if you plan to try this. I am the only person with this setup at this time.

 

yooo @akakrill sent you an email !

 

I have to ask... are the stock clutches so bad that we need to modify our clutches?. I have 172k miles, pulled plenty of big things, not once had an issue.

Am I just lucky?

 

The throw out bearing is known for being a poor design and often squeaking badly. The quill gets worn unevenly and on rare occasion snaps off.

Another option that recently became available.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manual-2nd-gen-fix.624299/

 

Is this applicable to the 5 speed or 6 speed?

 

Five speed seems to be regarded as solid so I believe it's a 6-Speed only problem.

 

I have a 2007 MT FJ and I'm experiencing the exact same issue with a URD Stage 2 Clutch: The first 2000 miles was flawless. I adjusted the rod length once and it started happening again. The chirping of the TOB is near constant. I'm going to check the bolts on the Flywheel this afternoon.

 

UPDATE: Pressure plate bolts were 1/4 to 1 turn loose! Thanks to all the prior participants in this thread!