What smalls do I need to swap a new longblock?

I used anti-seize on mine. I've been using it on exhaust system nuts/bolts for many many years. I never have a problem removing exhaust bolts years later.

I like the stick because it doesn't squirt out if I should drop it, roll over on it, or step on it.

 

My parts are due to be delivered on Thursday. Not much going on until then. I'm thinking about the transmission right now.

I ordered the front transmission seal like cs_ar suggested, and the tube of Toyota sealant. Is it true these transmissions don't use a pan gasket? Just the sealant?

I'm going to do a drain and fill on the tranny because I already lost a bit of fluid when the torque converter was removed. Plus I'd like to look inside the pan to verify there isn't anything alarming in there.

What aftermarket fluid should I use? I'm not going to a dealer to pickup Toyota fluid. This transmission has 217,000 miles on it and I'm sure the last time it was filled it wasn't Toyota fluid.

Thanks!

 

I answered one of my own questions. There is no gasket on the transmission pan, only a bunch of red sealant I'm currently scraping off.

Still looking for input on what ATF to use if anybody has any hot tips.

 

After I first bought it, I started off with Walmart plain old DexII DexIII ATF to get through the initial clean up. Then when I refilled the torque converter and transmission during the engine swap, I switched to Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic Dex/Merc in the red bottle. I think it is around $18 a gallon at Walmart.

Filling the torque converter is like feeding a baby. It can only take small amounts at a time. Let it drain down and then give it a little more until completely full.

The torque converter should make 3 clunks as you turn it back and forth and be pressing against the bell housing when fully seated. I think you can fabricate a better metal tongue than the bracket I used to hold the torque converter in place while you mount the engine.

Once you get the engine on the torque converter, then rotate it until it aligns with the flexplate bolt holes for the black bolt. Rub a small amount of grease on the torque converter shart part that goes inside the back of the crankshaft mounting so it won't rust and become stuck later on down the road.

 

A little strange, the Toyota FIPG I received was black. Yesterday when I started squeezing it into the transmission pan I saw it was black. I just went with it since the clock was ticking. I verified afterwards McGeorge sent the correct part listed as the trans pan gasket. https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-sealer-0029500103

I installed the exhaust manifolds, brackets, and sensors. All torqued to spec. Flexplate is installed on the crank, torqued to spec, 61 ft lbs, used a ton of blue loctite on the bolts per many peoples recommendations to avoid any oil coming out of the holes

I got the fluids tonight. Hopefully the engine will be in the truck and running tomorrow. I picked up:

1. Valvoline 5w-30 5 quarts (I think the engine guy said 5-30 for break in 500 miles, then use 10-30? It could have been the other way around. Any advice?
2. Valvoline Max life dex/merc ATF in the red bottle. 2 gallons. I measured my bucket and it appears I drained over 6.5 quarts, plus what spilled on the garage floor.
3. Valvoline Zerex Asian red coolant. 2 gallons. I just realized I actually need more than 2 gallons.

I need to fill the torque converter in the morning, clock it/secure it then install the engine!

It's getting really close though there is still a ton of small tasks.

 

Fingers crossed for you here.

 

By the way, your photos of the transmission seal job were super helpful. I was really worried I had the wrong seal because it was orange and appeared small. I kept looking at the transmission and thinking the old seal looked like a bearing not a seal.

Your photos made it really clear I was looking at the correct part. One of your photos even showed the Toyota part # which matched mine. I yanked the old seal, froze the new seal, then tapped it into place.

 

One more question about the flex plate to torque converter installation:

I possibly won't be able to get a torque wrench in there to be sure I hit 30 ft lbs on each bolt. I'll do my best and I'll use blue loctite.

That black bolt though. I know it goes first, but should I torque it down immediately and then just move over to the installing next bolt? I have some concern over the order of operations. The last thing I want is a broken flexplate because I didn't tighten correctly in the right order.

Thanks!

 

I basically followed the approach in this video. Finger tightened in a star pattern first with the black bolt first.. Then torqued and marked each bolt as the last step. I didn't have a problem getting a clicker type torque wrench in through the access window with an extension. Though I am only 4x2. I don't know how much room you have to work with.

https://youtu.be/kYgOI2KZ95k

 

Just want to say @dankgus thanks for posting all this valuable info! And thanks @CS_AR for the helpful hints and vids. I'm about to embark this exact project! Looking forward to the finish!

 

I'm happy to answer any questions. We got the engine installed this weekend but still have quite a bit of work left. It is all very small jobs but a lot of them. Hopefully we'll chip away the next couple of days and complete it this weekend!

 

Before the swap the transmission cooler lines weren't even connected to the radiator, they were just hooked up to a poorly installed small aftermarket cooler.

I bought a new radiator but I'm unsure if it makes any difference which transmission line goes to which side of the radiator. Any advice on that? It doesn't seem like it should make a difference but I thought I'd ask here first.

I asked the guy at the shop for 10 ft of hose before I realized it was $3.99 a ft. I don't need anywhere near that much.

ETA I'm not installing the little aftermarket cooler, just going to rely on the radiator.

 

If I didn't have my all covered up with a skid plate, I would take a picture. My computer with all of my pictures is down for repair at the moment and in the shop.

Maybe another member like @Dirty Pool has a diagram or can tell us.

 

Just started up the new engine!

Big thanks to all who contributed knowledge to this project!

I pulled the EFI fuse, cranked the engine intermittently until I saw the oil pressure light go off, then I inserted the EFI fuse and fired her up!

 

CONGRATULATIONS! It is a great feeling when it just starts up and runs at the end.

 

There's a small problem. There seems to be a small oil leak on the passenger side of the engine. I really don't have any idea where it's coming from.

When I say small, I mean there are a few drops in the ground this morning after being parked all night.

Any tips on determining where its coming from?

 

Can you determine if the leak is at the front or rear of the engine on the passenger side?

 

It's neither front nor back really, I'm seeing the drops form on the axle. I'm wondering, is this even engine oil I'm looking at?

The axle was dirty and oily already, which was somewhat from the rod punching through probably, but now I'm wondering if there is something else leaking. What else could this be? I feel like I've felt around all over the block and I'm just not feeling any oil at all.


If you look at the photo above you can see the drop formed about 5" to the right of the rubber boot.

 

Damn it. I googled "Tacoma leaking front axle" and I see a bunch of pictures that look like mine. What does the diff lube look like? Just like clean motor oil? Because that's what I'm finding on the garage floor.

 

I'm not sure what 4WDs use since I only have a 2WD. But I do use Redline MT90 in my manual transmissions and it is almost clear.

Its noticeably thicker than motor oil to the touch.

Does the lube feel like its thicker than motor oil?

It looks like a leak may have been going on for a while.