New info JBL system lower ohms to increase volume

I value all feedback

 

Uh, no.

That's like guessing the acceleration time of a car by looking for a spoiler.

Check with the manufacturer, or measure current value with a known voltage from a pink noise source. From the voltage and current, you can get the impedance using Ohm's law.

Or, don't worry about it but keep an extinguisher handy.

 

I'm sooooo lost. Are we JBL system owners running out in mass and purchasing Cerwin Vega subs or not...?

 

There's nothing special about that sub, or any Cerwin Vega product for about the last 20 years. Swapping it would do nothing for the rest of the system clarity or volume/output.

OP is most likely experiencing a major placebo effect.

 

The jbl system is 2 ohms. OP might be getting better sound since the new sub can handle more before it starts clipping and amp not throttling it. Or handle the crossover settings better, frequency range, etc. You'll notice with the oem setup that certain types of music may affect it more. Like one song you'll get good response and the next not so much. The vw with the fender systems used to do it bad, would just cut to a flat curve and drop once you hit a certain range they didn't like.

 

Ahhhh! Would the amp limit all the channels if one speaker starts clipping? In this case the entire system /OP could be seeing a greater max volume now because the old sub was the weakest link? I actually have no real complaints about the sound quality of my JBL system but the max volume is pitiful sometimes. For the record I do understand that every input retains it's own audio settings but sometimes one of the inputs like the radio or something can actually get loud... but it seems sporadic.

 

It has to do with wave form and being in ot out of phase. It's still a 2 ohm speaker with a single input on speaker and dual output on amp. Wired in reverse polarity! Wire it to "normal polarity" and it sounds stock. So I did not check with my multimeter yet to "double check" Toyota's wiring positive to negative , I was assuming they wired it to the sub witch was marked positive and negative. In my picture the green wire was a positive on the stock sub and the red a negative.

 

When I tried different wire combinations if the amp didnt like the voltage it just shut off. This reverse polarity woke it up

 

I love placebos they are my favorite suppository. Unfortunately this is not. Toyota has this whole car connected. All speakers function as a unit. So reversing the polarity is either confusing it or putting the wave forms together correctly. I know it works because I'm doing it and the amp isnt turning off and only got to 104° that's completely acceptable. And I'm sure this amp would turn off if it didnt like what it was doing.

 

Welcome to the Standing Wave phenomenon! Front speakers make bass, subwoofer, wired backwards, cancels it out.

Fun fact: this is how noise-cancelling headphones work. Reproduce the sound outside the headphones with the phase reversed.

 

I'm sure that's correct but this isnt a noise canceling headphone it's a complicated web of confusion created to confuse you and I think it's doing its job fabulously. As for my sub. It sounds fabulous too. Riddle me this. If this amp is smart and turns itself down after being pushed hard stock. Why isnt it turning down now? Or barely even getting warm? Why are my tweeters recognizable at highway speed with windows down and they clearly* were not before?

 

It's been many years since I was a stereophile driving around in a rolling speaker cabinet but RiotFunk's theory regarding the clipping, sounds like the most plausible right now but that's based on nothing but past experiences and reasoning.

 

I'm thinking the factory amp to sub connection with the 4 wired bridged to oem sub vs the 2 OP hooked up. I would say looking at the factory wiring that the sub from the factory sub is running at a 4ohm load and now you're running at a 2 ohm load with the new sub.

 

Could the stock wiring be dual voice coils at 2ohm ea wired individually? (apologies for talking out my butt)

 

Oem
OPs

 

By the diagrams you posted the OEM setup would be a left right @ 4ohm or 1 channel parallel for a final resistance of 2ohm? The Spec for the OEM speaker and amp says it's a 2ohm system. What would be the difference between the two different installs if the OEM diagram was in parallel at 2ohm vs the OPs? Sorry, just trying to learn something on your dime. I'm also very interested in trying the OPs setup but dont want to waste money. * plus the CV is a dual voice coil at 4ohm wired parallel for 2 ohm internal. The OP might be at 1ohm no or just the same at 2ohm?

 

If he was using a 2ohm sub than yeah would be a 1 ohm load that way bridged. I'd figure the oem amp would just thermal and shutdown at 1ohm due to heat and current draw. The factory looks like they're bridging it to run 4 ohm on the factory sub. It's a dual 2ohm voice coil wired to run at 4ohm. Which is fine on amp that's 2 as long as it's wired right. Less heat and draw this way from factory, probs why they do it. And won't murder the paper cone. It's a 2ohm amp so in theory should push his sub just fine. Haven't pulled mine out yet, but seems that's how they have it from the pics I've seen

 

Riotfunk. Do you think the system knew the stock sub was starting to clip or distort so I throttles back just because of that particular speaker? What do u think about the wiring polarity? Does wiring this way create a 1 ohm load shared by dual 2 ohm channels that are clearly interconnected with all* of the other speakers create a less than 2 ohm but more then 1 ohm load for the amp? What about the auto volume limit that appears to be pretty weak. When the stereo is turned up now. It does not distort to maximum volume witch is about double the volume before. As for heat and resistors. Would the resisters blow without overheating signs on the heatsinks of the amp measured at 104°¿?

 

So has the OP discovered that it's safe to run the amp at 1ohm (re his post about 104deg surface temp) or something else...? More importantly, are all of us who want more volume from our JBL systems without dropping large sums of cash running out to get a new subs?