TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

surprising similarities

 

+1 to all of this. Look at the width of this pulley/belt...



733 RWHP & 713 RWTQ, BTW.

 

They look identical to me!

The snow one looks to come with a map sensor. Inject meth vs boost vs RPM, very nice.

 

Hi guys. Just to give a little update. As you know I’ve been having issues with boost ceasing at 3000rpm. I have now changed the bypass valve. I have had LPG installed in the Ute so while they had the sc off I changed the bypass valve. Now I checked the old bypass valve and it seems to be working perfectly fine. No leaking at all. So I have no idea what is going on. I pick up the car on Friday so I’ll test it then. Just seems weird to me. I’ll keep you posted.

 

Ok fellas......time to make my dreams of a 2.7 a reality, so I can blow you bozos out of the water. First, I need that pulley wrap mod thingy. @Roostfactor , can I please purchase one of these from you sir?

 

I’ve seen it. Didn’t really look into either on them more because they are both overkill for me.

I got the Snow VC-50 which just pumps meth based on boost. @White lightning boosted told me to get the stage 3 controller but I didn’t really feel like tapping into the fuel system. Even worse is I’m just going to throw the controller into the glove box. There’s only so many times I can see the thing reach 8 psi until I get bored.

 

Also I changed out the PCV valve. Rough idle got even rougher. So next I’m going to uninstall the catch can and go from there.

 

@Roostfactor sign me up for one of those as well.

 

Pm me

 

Pm me

 

@12TRDTacoma , for clarification purposes after ordering then cancelling some pulleys.

I am on a 2.5” currently with a gates 69.5”. I have a roush tensioner installed with a stock pulley. I have a 50mm to put on it though. Given a 50mm installed with a 2.5” on a roush, it seems as though the roost wrap is not the way to go. The billydcat wrap on the 40mm noose would work better. I assume this is all still possible on the 69.5”. Hopefully I am communicating correctly but I was just confused on which pulley wrap mod to go.

 

Well a Roush tensioner has a ton more tension over the OE tensioner and dual bearing roller offers more stability at the pulley, I actually pulled off all of my wrap mods and have been running it that way for quite a while now with my modified RPM series belt. I have no slippage. If you have slippage then I say try to run Billdacats wrap mod, Roosts wrap mod would be runner up if you can't make the mods necessary to run Billdacats wrap mod, but if you have no slip then I would say run it as is without any wraps.

Belt size of 69.5 would be good, in conjunction with the Roush tensioner along with the new roller... Average boost is anywhere from 10.2-10.5 with a peak of about 11 @ sea level with a 2.5 with supporting mods of free(r) flowing exhaust and a better intake over OE.

 

That is one RIDICULOUS ride you have there!!!

 

tapping the fuel injector wires is very simple. two wires from the stage three connect to the only two wires on any fuel injector. they work either way so there's no backwards way to mess up.

 

Exactly. I really like @BillDaCat8's version like I said and I may try it because it puts a lot more wrap on the sc pulley where its desperately needed. What I would be looking out for (I don't want to say concerned) is the top left idler because the mod puts a heck of a lot more wrap on that pulley then stock. If I were to run it, I think I would use the stock tensioner to relieve some of the load in that area and the stiffer tensioner probably isn't needed with all the extra wrap anyway.

P.S. Does anyone have the link to @BillDaCat8's writeup on it (maybe in post #1)? He posted the part #s yesterday but I would like to see what needs to be machined and how its made?

 

The perfect example of when overkill is juuuust right!

 

This is for everyone regarding belt lengths. THE BIGGEST thing that needs to be visually verified by each installer ESPECIALLY when installing smaller pulleys, belt wraps, belt lengths, etc. is the adjustment range on the tensioner. Here is an example that I marked for easy reference.

The indicator must be somewhat close to the middle to allow movement of the tensioner arm in both directions. The reason for this is that the tensioner is dynamic during engine operation. Even with the stiffest belts the tensioner arm is moving due to the loads on the belt during accel and decel.
Here is a pic of how I modded my stock tensioner stop (before my Roush) to allow more range.

I highly recommend checking your range on the tensioner whenever making any changes to the sc pulley/belt system!

Roost

 

hey @12TRDTacoma, any word on said pulleys?

 

69.5 with no wrap? I am not sure I can get @BillDaCat8 mod done so was considering the @Roostfactor mod as it is "easier" to build out. I would consider going no wrap if it made sense on a 2.5 or 2.8.