New info JBL system lower ohms to increase volume

Note. There is only ONE set of input terminals. With switchable 8 or 2ohm plug. Switched to 2ohm and wired reverse polarity. Somehow is causing the entire system to play at higher wattage without clipping distortion or overheating played at loud volume for testing purposes and enjoyment. I cant express how much this has made this truck that much better.

 

Maybe the factory sub is out of phase, running reverse polarity. Have to see which way the sub fires when the bass hits. I'll know when I pull it and can give better answers. I'd say the amp is pushing 4 ohm vs 2 ohm because of how they're wired to the sub. Hence why they use 2 positive and 2 negative lines to it. Could probs just do the factory sub in parallel at 2 ohm, but would murder it.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking

 

I'm just going to sit here, troll, and pretend to have a clue what all this means! (Not dissing, it's just you sound like you know exactly what you're talking about, while I have absolutely no clue).

 

It has to be bridging the amp since all of the speakers are louder. And the amp isnt getting too hot or clipping the sound. So what does this do to the rest of the speakers because ther are 2 ohm.

 

There is mega clipping in the system for no apparent reason. In some cases I doesn't even matter what the volume is. It's like JBL just said here is the cheapest crap we can make for you Toyota, now go ahead and slap the words "PREMIUM" on it and good to go we are. The headunits have a ton of features, but it really means nothing if they are incapable of playing music even decently.

Why would they wire a DVC sub in 4 ohm when the system is meant to be a 2 ohm? It's not like these amps are Monoblocks which have variable resistance handling capabilities.. if they wired it in 4 but it is meant for a 2 then they are intentionally wiring them in such a way that is meant to fry the sub or even the amp making you replace things prematurely and much sooner than you should be.

 

Interesting n thank you I guess Johnny is considered trash by yuppies lol

 

Why is the negative wire red? Maybe I should put the stock sub back in and reverse the polarity on it and see if it sounds better?

 

Thanks for the reply, I guess I got a good power amp, I've not experience clipping nor amplitude fluctuations...only the antenna issues I described. Naturally if they're using XM or other poorly compressed inputs streams it's going to sound like crap. I tried last night to find the pin-outs for the connectors (not just speaker/power/data) to figure out if I can test aftermarket FM antennas but have not found a good source including the service manual or other posts that show the aforementioned leads, but not the antenna(s). If I get it working I'll post it up on my build thread.

I'd like to see your set up...I've looked at aftermarket heads with Nav and Bluetooth for all features (I do not want to have to plug in my phone)...only Alpine appears to have one and even it is questionable on bluetooth for all features and compatibility with the steering controls.

 

Color codes are based more on making leads all different colors and have little to do with "red = '+'" etc. Put a volt meter on it to be sure, or use the old "crank it up" and see if it bottoms out.

 

I have a Pioneer 8000NEX headunit with nav and Bluetooth and all that. I run RCAs out to my amplifiers which ultimately uses OE speaker wiring to the speakers set up in 4 ohm and all wiring for my subwoofer is now aftermarket configured in 1 ohm. The headunit and amplifier turn on wiring is all original stuff used to power the factory headunit and amplifier and are the only things worth keeping outside of the output speaker wires for the door speakers if you are serious about running a good sound system. Steering wheel controls have been retained using a PAC steering wheel adapter. It all works still and I'm much happier with this sound system which sounds leaps and bounds better than OE could have had ever held a candle to.

 

Excellent!
Do you happen to know if this single port (top right from rear that I'm point at with a screwdriver) is the FM antenna, or if the dual port to its lower right is?

 

The one to the right is the FM antenna.

The one you are pointing at if I remember correctly is the XM antenna. I would need to see a picture of the plug but I'm pretty sure that is XM.

When it was all said and done I just spliced in a standard XM plug into my aftermarket headunit to retain my OE sharkfin intact. Works like a charm.

EDIT: Actually, that gray plug insert the XM. If the connector that mates up to it is blue, it is for the XM.

 

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I did the old try it and guess.
My XM antenna is black and on the XM radio.
My FM antenna is the lower jack in the double plug far right.
The other 5ohm single connector (white) I can’t figure out yet, maybe the GPS antenna or perhaps the grey one is the GPS.

My goal is to bypass the shark fin for FM. My assumption for my poor reception is FM is a vertically polarized transmission but the shark fins has to be a loaded coil so that presumes omnidirectional. While that does occur under many weather or environmental conditions, it is not reliable so the HD fades in/out as I drive.

I now have to find a source for the proprietary connector so I can experiment with different aftermarket 1/4 wave vertical antennas like every car in the past 50 years had before the marketing people thought they didn’t look cool.

 

Where does your blue plug, plug in at? That is where your XM antenna is.

Let me know what you find because I'd like to get some sort of something better or be able to better supplement the FM antenna.

 

My blue looks like one of the power plugs. I will figure this out and post it up. At current I’ve disconnected the XM connectors so the icon disappears since XM sucks even if it worked due to over compression.

 

I have access to OE schematics and connector diagrams. I can look it up if you want.

 

Thanks!!!

 

I hope this helps. It should be the same across the models from 14 to 18 Tacoma.




I attempted looking it up on my factory schematics but it does not show satellite radio information.