DIY OEM Cruise Control Install

My 07 2WD Tacoma did not come with cruise control and it was one of things I wanted. I read a great write up on Toyota Nation with photos on a OEM cruise control install.

I finally ordered the parts and completed the install in (15) minutes with the total cost being $100.00 and it works great.

The post can be found here.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t171992.html

Thanks mhadden

 

great, link hammerdog, I can't believe they still make vehicles without CC.

 

where can i get a cruise kit like yours

 

I ordered the cruise control parts from 1sttoyotaparts.com for around $100.00which included shipping to California.

I have ordered stuff from them before and they are reliable and have reasonable shipping.

 

Yeah I've seen that write up and its been on my to do list. Its just the time to do it although I really HATE not having cruise.

 

Anybody got an ideas why the OEM cruise control I installed isnt working. I installed exactly as specified on the DIY and no joy. I have a 2007 Tacoma PreRunner but pretty standard stuff. 4.0L 5-spd automatic manual windows, locks. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

OK, I just ordered all the parts as listed on the other web site for the cruise control. Total cost was 133.00 (can't complain).

The visual directions are pretty good and I can see doing this really easily.

The questions I have for anyone who has done this on a MANUAL transmission are:

1. Where, exactly is the taped-up clutch switch plug? (the piture don't show good landmarks under the dash)

2. I understand the purpose of having a disengage switch mounted on the clutch......but how does it disengage with the use of the brake? Is that already built in?

To me, it makes more sense to have it disengage with the brake being tapped.

Anyone with a comment would be appreciated. (I haven't done the install yet).

 

Nevermind. The brake disconnect is aready built-in.

I installed everything today (manual trans) and the stalk/airbag/wires took about 10-15 minutes to disconnect battery, disassemble/reassemble the cruise control unit, and close the steering wheel up. Easier than falling off a log.

The clutch switch is probably easier to install on it's threaded bracket visually if the lower dashboard was removed and the fuse box dropped out of the way.

I didn't drop the dash because I didn't want to take anything apart and I could see pretty good under the dash where it was supposed to go without the dismantle being really needed.

The biggest problem is trying to lay on your back while forcing the clutch pedal depression to make (2) hands worth of room to work. What a bitch it was (moving the clutch pedal). I got alleviated the situation by taking some zip-ties, connecting them together, and then routing them around some brackets with the clutch pushed in. Then I snugged them down and I could get both hands in there with a lightsource nearby. Albeit this was harder to do with the dashboard inplace, but I really think the time (to take apart and reassemble the lower dashboard) to complete the job either way would be the same.

Anyways, the clutch switch hole is occupied by a 9/16'' hex bolt and nut and you can't see them from bottom, so this was a Helen Keller operation .

Before removing the bolt (note the amount of bolt threads extended thru your side of the hole mine was about 1/4") use a short open-ended wrench to break it loose and it unscrew easily with your fingers.

Once that bolt was out look slightly past it and to your left and you'll see the electrical connector (white) and it'll be looped and taped (cut the tape carefully with an x-acto knife) and extend the wire length.

You'll know if you have the correct wire by test-fitting it to your clutch switch. Once done disconnect it from the switch and proceed.

From here it gets a little bit tight (back to the Helen Keller mode) because you have to thread the clutch switch by feel from the backside into the hole. I got lucky and it threaded itself on the first try.

Now the really hard part. Connect the electrical connector to the switch. Fortunately I could tell by feel which way it was positioned and I carefully maneuvered the connector on top of it (really confined space) and pressed down until I heard the "click" of success.

Re-connect battery and go drive.

On/off was a no brainer due to seeing the green light on the speedo near the bottom "light up".

From there I pushed the stalk down and set it to 65 mph.

Worked like a charm.

Conclusion: Awesome Do It Yourself project with good pictures that worked great.
Time to complete: 15 minutes for the steering wheel/stalk setup.
45 minutes for the clutch switch.
Cost: $133.00

 

Great info here guys! Thanks for the links and Tsunami*22 very nice "how-to" write up !!

Am I correct in saying that all Tacos (05 up) have cruise built into their computers, we just have to install the stalk and wiring (and clutch switch if manual tranny)? Does the "Cruise" light in the dash work?
Thanks again,
Bill
d:^)

 

Yup. The dash "cruise" light comes on (green) when the power on the stalk is activated. It shows on the lower left side of the speedometer gauge (2007 model). At first I didn't see it because my ScanGaugeII was blocking my view of it.

I'm glad you like my little snippet of verbage, but the real hero is the guy that took those pictures showing the procedure. Worth a thousand words.

 

How do I get the pictures showing step by step.....I received the stalk in the mail....now I just need the procedures on hope to take the old one out and put the new one in.

 

Here is a link that I used to install mine, unfortunately the pictures are not available any more, but it is a good write up.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/61-2nd-generation-2005/171992-diy-oem-cruise-control.htm

 

Yeah...imagine. It's like a manufacturer not offering electric seats...or automatic door locks...unbelievable. ;-)

 

Hi, Bill in Ky. Question you install ? Kit # 8463208021 with the plug in wire? I found a video on the web. Note I have a 2015 4X4 4 Auto base model. The part is a Toyota part $50,00 Ebay.

 

Hello Ron
As I recall, I ordered the ground wire and the clutch switch from Toyota of Dallas.
I bought the stalk at a local junk yard.. $10

 

Ron: I installed cruise control on my 2015 base AT the other day. It was a simple plug n play install. For the AT, you need the cruise control stalk, wire plug and cover plate. Very simple. My 2015 was already prewired. I purchased OEM parts on eBay for around $70. I also purchased a $40 wire harness from the local Toyota dealer (with anticipation of relocating the horn wire) but did use it. Good luck.

 

Note that (some?) regular cab Tacomas DO NOT have all of the wiring necessary to do cruise control. It was not a dealer-installed option for regular cab tacomas - only AC and DC had dealer options for CC. What's missing is a run of wire from the engine control unit (under the passenger side lower dash) to the instrument panel/steering wheel. The instrument panel and ECU both have the programming, but about $2 worth of wire is missing.

For people with regular cabs, the Rostra kit has all of the wiring and instructions on how to hook this up. The Rostra kit does not include the clutch disengage switch for manual transmissions, but you can order an OEM switch or an aftermarket and hook it up.

I can confirm this as true for the 2011 year model. Installation took about 4-6 hours if I remember correctly. Disassembling the lower dash and making sure I was counting the correct pin positions in the wiring harnesses were equally difficult. But it does work, perfectly.

 

Found this on Tacoma Nation: How to check if your Tacoma is pre wired

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20115103681...201151036812&_rdc=1&rmvSB=true#ht_1486wt_1098


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If your 2009-2014 Tacoma is not pre-wired, this is the kit you need. The kit for 2009-2012 is slightly different from the 2013-2015 kit.
Please include in your purchase a note telling me what you have.


Included -
Speed control switch
Mounting screws
Switch to clock spring cable (inside the steering wheel)
Custom built harness to go from the clock spring (under the steering wheel) to ECU and to ground.
Custom built harness to go from combination meter to ECU (required for 2009-2012)
Switch cover

If you provide an e-mail address in the pay instructions, I will send you my instruction sheet

If it turns out that your vehicle is prewired,
you can get the switch by searching this listing number - 190939940963
And the switch cover by searching this listing number - 191231312353
If you need the clutch switch for manual transmission, search this listing number - 191273024289


Things you need to know before you buy. (New installs only.)


**This is a fairly easy D.I.Y., but it IS a "do it yourself" mod.
**There is a way to determine, before you buy, whether your vehicle is pre-wired. I respond to e-mails usually within a day or two.
**Because I also install these professionally, I can provide new install support and tech support in most cases
** As with anything you buy, double check fitment. 29 years of working on cars has taught me that there is always an exception I didn't know about.


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Testing for prewired condition of vehicle -


1.Place a small towel on the steering wheel just below the airbag.
2.Locate access holes on either side of the lower steering wheel cover. Take a Torx T-30 and unscrew the airbag.
(On some of the 2013-14, it is a spring clip at 3 points instead of two Torx bolts.) Lean the air bag forward gently
onto the towel but DO NOT UNPLUG IT.
3.So if you look at the fifth picture on the eBay listing, referring to the white 4 pin plug at top center and behind the black cable, the bottom 2 pins are empty. Take a piece of wire, or maybe an unbent paperclip, and with the key turned to the 'run' position, momentarily short the two pins to each other. There are three pins, and if you stay on this connector, you can't damage anything. If this makes the dash indicator light up, you know you're in a prewired vehicle.

So to recap. Expose the white 4 pin connector. Turn the key on to the run position. Put a wire jumper on the two bottom pins, but just for a moment. This should turn the indicator lamp on. Shorting it again momentarily turns the indicator back off


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You will need to move the horn wire to the new cruise harness.
The plug you remove so that the cruise plug I provide will work has a single wire on it that needs to be transferred to the harness I send. This is your horn wire. Make sure you note the position of it on the old plug so you can correctly remove and reinstall it into the new plug.
To remove the connector:
1) Take a thin bladed knife and pry the rectangular retainer up from both plugs.
2) Carefully keeping your fingertips out of the way of the sharp connector pin, pop it loose and install it in the other.
3) Snap the rectangular retainer back in. If it won't go all the way down, the connector pin is not seated properly. If the white plug won't plug snugly into the clockspring assembly, the retainer may not be seated properly.
(Easy to do. Hard to describe.)







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You say that you needed and used the $40 harness that you got from he dealer?

 

Saddly the photos are not there any more.