Long Travel BS Thread

Hey guys im new to this thread, just got my camburg kit put on a while back what do you guys who have similar 3.5" kits run in the rear?

 

Many run the dmz sua with 16 inch shocks through the bed. Camburg makes a bolt on rear sua kit as well although it’s almost just as much work to completely drill out the stock stuff and bolt on vs just cutting everything off and welding.

 

12" Total Chaos shackles, Total Chaos spring hangers, Deaver E30's.

 

problem is finding a shop that'll do it.

they were already drilled out it seems, brand new wheels seems weird they already good to go for 5/8 studs. anyone know if method does that now?

 

Yes
Both method and raceline will sell wheels drilled for 5/8
But issues do occour if your stud is not exactly the same as what they drilled for

Had issues with the studs camburg uses being bigger than spec

 

ended up having to drill it a tad more. Have to fudge with the camburg center cap as its a tight squeeze to get it on now the wheel is on

 

Does $5.75/ft seem like a reasonable price for 1.75" x.125 DOM? A513 Type 5.

 

That’s cheaper than I paid for mine so I’d say it’s reasonable.

 

Had the same issue
Camburg told me to remove all the paint in contact areas cause even powdercoat can cause fitment issues.

He also told me if it’s snug when you put them on
Make it bigger
Once the whole thing heats up from being on the road it expands onto the hub and they’ve had people have issues not being able to get wheels back off

 

With race hubs you can't have powdercoat in the ID bore of the wheel unless they machined the ID oversized to compensate for the powdercoat thickness which most wouldn't do and we wouldn't do. You don't want powdercoat in there just like you don't want powdercoat in the lug nut seats. Those should all be clean machined surfaces. You can use a 80 grit barrel flap wheel and clean up the ID of the wheel to remove the powdercoat/paint. The wheel should be 4.25" ID, not smaller.

Scott @ Camburg

 

I paid that 3 months ago, so that’s probably a steal today

 

Been trying to figure out fiberglass situation for a while now. Made the decision to go LSK race kit which needs at least 4.5 over since it is a 4.5 kit. I've been looking into ADV as they are the only company that makes that size. Only problem is that they don't make bedsides for SB and have been saying they are making them for sometime now. Called them today to see if they have an R&D truck, they said that they have a truck coming in, in a month, after its done at Kibbetech. So the whole process would be done in 2 months. They told that same story to my buddy back in June when he asked them about it. I've heard about ADV's customer service is good and all but I mean 4 months now and they are telling the same story. My buddy just went to fiberwerx and picked up their bedsides because he couldn't wait anymore. Idk at this point about them.

 

Adv for the front and fiberwerx for the rear?
Unless you axle swap, the rear is only going to be about 2” + whatever tire and wheel combo you have over stock. I’d think a slightly narrower rear end, track width and glass, would be a good thing (as in 1-2” narrower than the front)

 

I’m in the same boat as having a different trackwidth can help a little with hard turning vs being completely equal. I have 1.5 spacers in the rear and I never noticed any impairment by not having perfectly matching track width. Some folks have their reasons to where their wheeling criteria warrants it but many seem concerned about the aesthetic from what I gather.

 

I'm probably going to go with 2" spacers on the rear axle once I go 3.5 up front, but that is only because I'm not caged and my Archive setup puts the bypass tubes out a bit far even with custom config. So for articulation of the axle and tires, glass and spacers will be essential. Otherwise I wouldn't touch with the OEM axle, but with my OCD having wider fenders up front would probably get to me too. So I get where he's coming from wanting the body to be even. It's a clean look.

 

The math for glass isn’t that straight forward. You’ll be fine with 6” glass. Lots of 3.5” LT guys are even running it. You can run 4” as well, just more trimming than 6”.

 

If you're trying to keep the tires covered, you're going to want 6" front fenders. I'm running a +2 kit with 35s, and I fill out my 4" fenders. With a 4" glass and a +4.5 kit almost your entire tire will be outside the fender.

 

Speaking of fiberglass fenders...anyone happen to know what size these are or how to measure the size? Thanks

 

speaking of fiberglass...

 

looks like 4.5" Glassworks. and they measure from center line of the fender i believe