1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Removal of spare tire assembly.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JJ04TACO, Aug 28, 2019.

  1. Aug 28, 2019 at 10:36 AM
    #1
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2013
    Member:
    #114311
    Messages:
    1,217
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jim
    Dallas
    Vehicle:
    04 White DC/TRD
    Fox 2.5 RR front, 2.0 RR rear from AccuTune Offroad, OME Dakar Leafs, Camburg Uniball UCA's, CBI Offroad Bolt on Sliders w/kickout, Scangauge II Uniden Bearcat 880 w/ 3' Firestick on CBI antenna mount B&M Trans Cooler
    I installed a BAMF shock mount last year and rendered my spare carrier useless. I’ve put the impact on the bolts that seem to hold it in and went to town and got nothing. This is removable yes?

    I’m thinking of lighting it up with the blowtorch and trying again.

    That said it seems to offer up some structural support for the frame soooo maybe it stays?

    It was in my way a bit while trying to install my L track...
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  2. Aug 28, 2019 at 10:40 AM
    #2
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Most Improved Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2016
    Member:
    #180213
    Messages:
    66,904
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ryan
    Vehicle:
    '04 TRD 3.4l 4x4 5sp manual Xtraca & '96 4runner 4x4 5spd manual
    I remember looking at doing this awhile ago and it didn't look easy, so I just zip tied the chain up and left it alone. Subbed though to see if anyone has a way of doing it
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  3. Aug 28, 2019 at 10:42 AM
    #3
    BikerinBlak909

    BikerinBlak909 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2012
    Member:
    #91297
    Messages:
    890
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    96 LT 5 lug
    JD Fab LT kit 3" lift spindles Fox 2.5 x 10" dual rate Deaver F67 SUA, 9" shackles 8.4 prerunner rear end with 4.10 33 AT3 wildpeaks McNeil Fiberglass fenders PRP comp seats Doug Thorley long tube header K&N CAI
    It helps keep the frame straight just like rest of the cross support members. It can be unbolted n removed but I wouldn't.
     
  4. Aug 28, 2019 at 10:46 AM
    #4
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF Trash Aficionado

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2019
    Member:
    #285037
    Messages:
    18,975
    Vehicle:
    2000 reg cab 4x4 flatbed MT
    20190521_103424.jpg

    Looks like you could remove the little crane from it, but the bolts are on top.
     
    davidstacoma, GQ7227 and frizzman like this.
  5. Aug 28, 2019 at 11:02 AM
    #5
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Member:
    #113212
    Messages:
    5,321
    Gender:
    Male
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle:
    04 XCab 4x4 TRD/OR
    OME 2.5,Tundra 17s,Falken Wildpeak AT3W hitch w/ 7-pin, ARE cap, JVC HU w/BT, HID/LED lights
    I think they mean removing the tire carrier, not the entire crossmember

    but yeah @JJ04TACO , the 4 bolts come out of the top of the mechanism, gotta lift the bed to take them out.

    edit: a lot of these were replaced under TSB for "cold weather" states due to rust (surprise) so definitely doable.
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  6. Aug 28, 2019 at 12:17 PM
    #6
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2018
    Member:
    #275019
    Messages:
    29,298
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    J A Y
    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/...ab_Pickup/tires_and_wheels/change_a_flat_tire


    my spare tire does not want to come out like this video
    it will not lower all the way to the ground :confused: ... still has a couple inches to go i think
    this is the first time i have ever lowered it and try to remove it so what to do now
    <<< newb at the finest of levels
    gonna hose it with some KB blaster to loosen it up see how that can work
     
  7. Aug 28, 2019 at 1:52 PM
    #7
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Member:
    #113212
    Messages:
    5,321
    Gender:
    Male
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle:
    04 XCab 4x4 TRD/OR
    OME 2.5,Tundra 17s,Falken Wildpeak AT3W hitch w/ 7-pin, ARE cap, JVC HU w/BT, HID/LED lights
    yeah, probably rusted or could even be bound up on the spool. try giving the cable a few good "tugs" and see if it pulls out. the tire should be flat on the ground and the cable should have slack
     
  8. Aug 28, 2019 at 1:58 PM
    #8
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2018
    Member:
    #275019
    Messages:
    29,298
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    J A Y
    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    a hammer did it and a nice long blaster soak on the steel wheel
    cable might be jammed up in there i don't know
    thanks!
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2019
    cruiserguy likes this.
  9. Aug 28, 2019 at 6:01 PM
    #9
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2018
    Member:
    #275019
    Messages:
    29,298
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    J A Y
    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    took spare off (tilted at an angle with half touching the ground)
    it looks like it was just bound up on the spool, cable was nice shiny silver, sprayed it with pB blaster (after tire off) and tried the wrench again. was able to get about six more inches which looked covered in yellow lube/grease (from the factory?)

    might I need to grease the cable before spooling it back up and zip tie it?
    the spare will be off for a period of time
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2019
  10. Aug 1, 2020 at 2:16 PM
    #10
    Dylwhit

    Dylwhit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2019
    Member:
    #283480
    Messages:
    102
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dylan
    Vehicle:
    2004 2.7l extcab
    Just went to replace mine because itss super rusted and didnt realize you needed to lift the god damn bed off
     
  11. Aug 1, 2020 at 3:06 PM
    #11
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2015
    Member:
    #153833
    Messages:
    14,277
    Gender:
    Male
    New Tripoli Pa
    Vehicle:
    2000 Work truck 5 speed 4x4 3.4
    Super Springs
    I cut so many out in this part of the country they rust fast after a few winters.

    Besides crawling under the truck to check the air pressure got old fast
     
  12. Aug 1, 2020 at 3:09 PM
    #12
    Dylwhit

    Dylwhit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2019
    Member:
    #283480
    Messages:
    102
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dylan
    Vehicle:
    2004 2.7l extcab
    Two of the bolts on the top are right under a cross brace of the bed and I cant get em out. So annoying that they could have mounted this 0.5inches aft and it woulda been a breeze
     
  13. Aug 2, 2020 at 6:11 AM
    #13
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2018
    Member:
    #259004
    Messages:
    3,027
    Gender:
    Male
    Indiana
    Vehicle:
    2 x 95.5 Ext 2.7L & 3.4L A/T 4x4
    I just rehabbed mine a little over a month ago. Cable was rusted to the spool and would only come down 6" or so.
    You have to drill out the rivets in the corners. I't's a fairly simple winch.
    I ended up welding mine back together as it was just quicker, but you could bolt is back.
    I used a small square file to remove the rust from the spool.

    upload_2020-8-2_8-5-47.jpg

    upload_2020-8-2_8-6-4.jpg upload_2020-8-2_8-6-24.jpg

    upload_2020-8-2_8-6-46.jpg

    My cross brace and the tire stabilizer arms were rusted to pieces, so I made a replacement. I was already replacing that part of the frame anyway.

    upload_2020-8-2_8-9-2.jpg
     
    jammer, davidstacoma and CrustyTaco like this.
  14. Aug 9, 2020 at 6:55 AM
    #14
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2018
    Member:
    #259004
    Messages:
    3,027
    Gender:
    Male
    Indiana
    Vehicle:
    2 x 95.5 Ext 2.7L & 3.4L A/T 4x4
    I used 3/16" tread plate steel. I don't recommend the tread type for several reasons. That's almost double the original frame thickness. Original is about 1/8". I had that plate on hand, so I used it. For my truck, it was overkill since it is not meant for anything but minor off road, and here in the Midwest, that means mud, not rock crawling.

    The raised treads become a nuisance for welding brackets, joints etc because nothing sits flat against the plate unless you grind them down at the attachment point.

    Also, to save material in cutting out the main pieces, one side of my frame has the tread side out, the other is smooth side out. By accepting that little difference, I was able to "spoon" (left image) the parts on the layout and save about 1/3 of the sheet of metal. That put the treads facing in on one side, out on the other. Hey, it's hidden under the bed, so the savings was worth it to me.

    upload_2020-8-9_8-47-47.jpg
     
    Youngandthriving likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top