The Lair

I just assumed 16s. You can buy 255/80r17 and achieve the same exact thing.

 

Good morning Lair!


Yea, these popped up and I snagged them immediately. Price/condition was too good to pass up.

So the 255/80 is a better choice than the 34" 285/75 ?

Also, did I calculate that wheel spacer need correctly?

Thanks again Randall.

 

I don't think he even considered the molecular porousity of the rubber compounds used, let alone the durometer. We could probably ignore the cross sectional density for Rob's purposes though.

 

Conner Conner Conner [SMH]

I will credit this response to me just not being as involved in the thread like I use to be thereby creating a lack of knowledge about me. That's on me for sure. However, let me assure you, I took everything into account.




















Now I'm just testing to be sure you are following along. If you give up on me you may definitely miss something important!

 

They’ll be better in the the sense that the 255 will be much more trouble free. Less clearance issues and better mpg. Less noticeable while driving down the road. No need for spacers with them either.

 

Is that a Rorschach test? Cuz I may need some professional help with the answer I came up with.

 

Is that a Rorschach test? Cuz I may need some professional help with the answer I came up with.

 

Ok, when you say "trouble free" I assume you mean taking everything else you specified into account? Also, "Less clearance issues". Does that mean no clearance issues or will I still need to do the CMC and Pinch Weld. If so then I am not opposed to going to the 285/75, with spacers and buying the OV Tune to help with MPGs.

But just a quick search to get a feel for pricing and.............

 

Correct, you wouldn’t need to touch the cab mount or cmc. That’s why it’s a popular size since it’s so low maintenance.

 

I literally just spit my Dr. Pepper all over my monitor!

 

If I can make at least one officer of law smile then I have succeeded in making them forget the dirt bags for a moment Daniel!

Hey, speaking of which, have you heard the latest about things here in Baltimore. It's open season on Law Enforcement.

I tell ya.

And that's all I can say without getting permanently banned from the site.

 

I'd like to achieve as much lift as possible with the tires. But basically the 255/80 is taller than the 285/70 and narrower.



Could I still run wheel spacers to help push it (the 255/80) out farther? I think that if it is tucked in there beyond the fender flare it will look a little silly. I certainly don't want to spend money I don't have to but..........however, you know I already rub with the 265/70s so.......

Also I found this..............

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1-5-inch-wheel-spacers.434967/#post-12759077

 

You certainly could, but then they’re going to rub. The reason it doesn’t rub is because it’s nice and sucked in. This would also keep road salt and mud from flinging up on the truck.

 

Cool Cool Cool! I was afraid of them hitting the UCAs.

You know, the mess or lack thereof was definitely a serious consideration. I realized that as soon as I drew up my own backspace and offset diagram. Especially off-roading.

Thanks Brother! I'm glad I asked for help in here. I really appreciate your, and everyone's input a lot! Y'all know that.


Now I just need to find the best price.

 

This seems like a great price. On the rim, out the door, including lifetime rotation, balancing, flat repair, road hazard, etc.



Plus Tax of course. Total would be $1,341.00 for 5 tires.

 

Do you happen to know the specs of the wheels? I don’t think they’d rub the uca since they’re even narrower than stock tires.

 

Go to bed you have a long drive today

 

I woke up and considered just hitting the road since I couldn’t fall back asleep. We’re good though, got another 2 hours of sleep. About to roll out.

 

Rob. First: Unless you're trying to get more lift to fit tires, tire size has nothing to do with spring ratings. Nor does the weight.

Second: you have very little extra weight up front right now. Heavier coils does 2 things: maybe adds more height, but definitely increases the stiffness. Now increases stiffness if you actually have extra weight is great, but if you have little extra weight, not so much. If you're not planning on going bumper and winch anytime soon, dont start upgrading coils.

Third: 700 lb coils are meant for vehicles with a massive amount of weight, which at this point you do not have. If you want an insanely stiff ride, with probably bad cv angles, then go 700# coils. My 4runner has way more weight on it with the 886's which are 650#.

if headstrong does not recommend 700# then do not go with 700# coils.

Wheel weight does not affect spring rating.

Also my 295 MTPs on my level 8's is 87 lbs, and the level 8s are 28-29 lbs. 295 MTPs are also gonna weigh about the same as 255 st maxx, so not quite 100 lbs there rob.

If you're buying a winch that weighs 150 lbs, you're buying the wrong winch. Mine with steel cable is 85 lbs. The smittybilt 12000k is like 89 lbs.

My point being this: you do not need 700# coils. Most people run those with full bumpers, winch, and everything you can add.