Misaligned bumper

Just bought my truck new few weeks ago and realized the driver side rear bumper is a bit saggy. Is there a easier way to adjust it or do I have to take the whole bumper off?

 

Just a few bolts underneath. Loosen them up and have a friend watch and tell you when it's even. Then tighten them back up.

No need to disassemble or remove.

 

Dealer?

 

Thanks guys. Yes bought it new at the dealer. It’s black so couldn’t really tell until it’s already home then finally caught it.

 

Be sure that your bed is aligned properly first, as the bumper aligns to the bed, and the bed is often off a little too. There are six bolts in the bed that can be loosened to make adjustments. Then align the bumper to the bed. There are detailed instructions on this forum somewhere...

Getting my bed properly positioned in line with the cab eliminated the occasional odd "vortex" wind noise.

 

First thing I checked on mine before I took delivery.

 

I’d take it back up to the dealer and make them fix it.

 

I was able to adjust mine front to back but I don’t remember if it was adjustable up and down. I had to remove the black step surface for access.

 

Welcome to the club!! ... unfortunately, it’s an extremely common issue.

 

I had that. They said the bracket was possibly bent during install and replaced it under warranty.

 

How many bolts on each side needed to be loosened (once the black step was removed)? Any chance of a torque spec, I haven’t found anyone mention this and this has stopped me from attempting this

 

Ha! You are right, but first be sure that the cab is aligned to the frame and then do the bed second. Mine was so tweaked it had to go to their bodyshop after the regional advisor approved the work. I discovered it when my shell wouldn't fit right. Three days and a free rental, but its all good now.

 

It’s been 2 1/2 years so I’m working on old memories, but I THINK I loosened a couple bolts on each side and possibly in the middle as well for easier adjustment. It’ll be obvious when you get the black step off. There wasn’t much adjustment available, mostly just the play provided by the holes being larger than the bolts. But that was enough to make it even if I moved both sides a bit. The toughest part for me was popping the license plate lights out so I could remove the step. All went back easily. I don’t have torque specs, I just tightened up.

 

Ok, yea I watched the video and it looked like I saw 4 bolts per side so that seemed a bit much. I thought I saw mentioned that the socket only needed to be disconnected and not necessarily the whole house- is that incorrect? It looks like the housing is attached to the black step piece so if it was just disconnected from the socket it would just stay attached. If that made any sense

Hopefully I can find the torque specs then (it’s kind of a problem of mine). I would think since its the actual bumper support that’s connected to the frame there should be a torque spec somewhere

 

I did not have to remove the end caps. I did completely remove the black plastic step surface. Maybe that’s not necessary but it is how I did it. If I remember correctly, I popped the lights out before disconnecting them. There wasn’t much room up there with the hitch. Unplugging them was difficult until I popped them out. If you can disconnect them first, that could work. Space is tight, though.

But again, I’m working off a fading memory.

 

I have a question for anyone- why is the adjustment made from the bolts under the step pad and not the bumper assembly that connects directly to the frame? Is it because there is play in the bolts/hole under the step pad and not the whole bumper. Maybe it’s just stupid question

I found this and I’m guessing the bolts everyone uses to adjust the bumper (under the black step pad) is 22ft lbs and the whole bumper assembly being 67ft lbs