Third member and axle help!

So, I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma that I recently just rolled over 600,000 miles. I was heading down the interstate the other night and my rear end blew out. I pulled over and noticed my rear drive shaft had vibrated my third member from the axle and Every stud is broken off in the axle!!

So now I got the truck towed home and I'm just not sure what route to go. I was told they could be drilled out and re-tapped, but I'm not to sure about that route.
The gears seem to still be in good shape with not to many shavings as we were able to pull off the road quickly. I need another double cardon rear drive shaft as it was some of the cause of the issue.

I want to figure out the cheapest option and any option you guys have done or know of so I can get back up and going.

Thanks, Eric

 

I would just replace the whole rear end. They’re not that expensive, maybe $400-500.

 

They seem to be a bit pricey since I have the 4.10 gear with the e locker. I just wasn't sure if I could extract the broken studs. They are probably pretty seized!

 

Something caused your rear end to fail and I wouldn’t trust it anymore. Extracting those studs will suck, but it’s doable with a good extractor. I’d save the stress and just find a new rearend.

 

I have a feeling that getting those studs out will be the least of your concerns if the third member dislodged itself from the axle housing at speed. Cut your losses and find a solid used axle. You'll likely save money and without doubt save the headache.

 

Isn't it in the manual to change the diff bolts every 500,000 miles? lol. This is also what a "normal" 3rd gen leaking diff looks like.lol
But seriously, I'd drill it and replace bolts if no gear teeth are dinged up. Not hard to do, just time consuming.

I'd be curious to know if the bolts sheered or stretched. Any closeups of the broken pieces?

 

Yes, the root cause was the dreaded driveshaft vibrations caused from an add a leaf in the rear end, which I now know needed and will be shimmed by the end of this. The vibes caused the carrier bearings to go bad and eventually jacked up the rear driveshaft. Got a used driveshaft while on the road working and it wasn't the best! So now I'm paying for it and just ready to get it right. It's tough finding another housing b/c I have all the options. 4.10 gear, ABS, E-locker. I've never even noticed that the abs has ever worked though.

I wonder if I could use my current axles in a housing that is the same but isn't set up for the ABS tooth ring on the axle.(whatever they call it) I have a couple weeks to get all this done so while looking for a new axle housing I may try working out a broken stud just to see how long it would take.

Appreciate all the help!

 

Thanks for this info. I honestly don't use the locker much at all and you are right about finding them cheaper with out it

 

I second what BartMaster1234 if i were you i would just replace it..in my experience its a B#$*h to extract the stud and if you do and there diff is bad all that work for nothing

 

you can find rear diff with e locker for 700 to 800 if it wasn't e locker 300 to 500 at most

 

Ok I'm looking at the ones without the locker now but I was wondering, Does it matter if it is the ABS version or not? Mine is, so I just wondered if one without that function would work also

 

Where are you seeing rear axles with e-lockers for 700-800? I’m looking too and I can only seem to find them for 1000-1200.

 

they had a few here northeast where im at you get lucky you just have to hunt them down. i actually bought on off a really small junk yard in new Hampshire off a roll over got it for $700 last month i was going for a 22re engine for my 93 toyota project ened up get the rear end insted of the engine lol just got to keep hunting lol

 

@Porthos33 to answer your question that would not do because you have ABS if you dont install a rear end with ABS then you ABS light will come on or Check engine light will come one throughing an ABS code.

I suggest get a rear end with ABS to avoid headaches. I did the same exact thing to a Tacoma i bought with a blown e locker rear end i need the truck to be on the road asap so i just stuck a and regular rear diff with the ABS worked like a charm no engine lights nothing

after you swap it you can sell the rear end housing get some $$$ back.

 

Thanks buddy. Cool thing is I burnt out the check engine light when I eliminated the cats. I don't think the truck has ever really had ABS even though it says it does. My wheels have always locked up in the rain even when new. Who knows, but I'm just happy to have the peace of mind that this issue won't set me back to long. Kinda feel like taking the bed off too and addressing the only frame rust I have above the rear wheels when I do this job.

 

I'd pull it apart and check for damage. If it all looks decent I'd try to extract the old studs, if not I'd drill and tap them then upgrade the fasteners.

 

Keep looking. I found a 4.10 rear end with an e locker for $400

 

Anyone buy a rear assembly from car-part.com? They quote me at around 1100 for a no rust, 4:10 4x4 w/ abs.

 

@Constant K is it with a e locker?

 

They are just a parts-yard database so it depends on which parts yard you’re specifically communicating with.

OP you really have to disassemble your rearend to tell what’s reusable and what’s not. It’s not that big of a job if you properly support your frame and let the suspension droop. I’m assuming your brakes and ABS sensors etc would be reusable and possibly the diff may be rebuildsble if the axle splines were the weak point in the system.