1st Gen S/C runny nose

Hey all,

Back to the tree of knowledge. I posted this on the performance forum and thought I'd do the same here for full coverage. I have a 1st gen S/C on my 3.4L and the nose is leaking oil. No bearing noise. I was thinking about just replacing seal which I believe is just behind pulley under a snap ring. Easy enough. I was wondering if anyone has ever changed the oil in the cone while leaving the S/C on the engine. I have found posts regarding removing the cone for rebuild but I could not find any info on 1st gen S/C nose oil change other than removing whole S/C. Can I suck oil out from port that is pointing down on right(looking at pulley) side? Do I need to pull the cone to allow oil to run out and upon replacement of cone then fill through said port? BTW the reason for oil change at this point is because of oil that has leaked thus reducing recommended oil level and avoiding bearing damage.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I want to get this done ASAP before bearing does fail due to lack of lube. Thanks

 

You don’t have to take the supercharger off.

You can get a large zip lock bag and slid it around the nose area and unbolt all the bolts.

Then replace the seal and clean the seams and bolt it back and full the measured of supercharger oil.

Get the high temp nose seal, not the stock one tho

You could have a butt screw drilled on the top so you drain and refill later

 

Hey thanks for the reply. I saw your write up on pulling the seal which I will do when I get the new one Tuesday.

Impressed with longevity of your motor. Speaks to the strength of these 3.4L Hino workhorses. I have just over 300k on mine but only S/C for last 70k or so. Looking forward to many more.

Did you take cone to a machine shop to have the port done on top? Looks like the way to go.

 

Yes, when I had the supercharger rebuilt I had them tap the hole and fit the butt screw for 30.00.
When you take the nose cone off you can take it to a machine shop. I believe that butt screw is tapered just a little to fit tight FYI, and use sealing tape for it when you install it for the threads
Viton high temp seal for the front of snout.
http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm

When you remove the nose have an large old towel under the snout for any run off oil.
Make sure you torque the bolts to correct numbers and there is a torque pattern.
http://www.pballandmore.com/Download/3.4_Gen_I_Nose_Drive_Replacement.pdf
The snout will be stuck on there, get a small socket and a large screw driver after
all the bolts are removed and put the socket in the circled area and with a large screw driver you can pop it off, do both sides, don’t use a hammer!
DONT OVERFILL with oil because you will blow out the seal from pressure.
Be very careful installing the nose seal. If it’s not put in correctly it will leak and not seal. Some people install it with a sealer I have seen for the wall area and if I remember there should be some lube of some type on the shaft so it doesn’t burn the seal at first start up.
Nose seal has to go in square, maybe use a large socket to push it in square.

Where is your old seal leaking from?
1 the outer wall section of the seal
2 the inter nose shaft section

 

Thanks for the pdf. I actually had that document in the records given to me by the PO. I read it earlier and used a rubber mallet to remove nose but I like your idea better with socket and driver and leverage it off. Hope the banging didn't hurt. Nothing external anyways.

So I took the pulley off and there was so much built up grime that it was hard to discern where leak was from, outer or inner. But I did see that C-clip was not(could not) seated all the way around. So, to your point, the seal was not seated squarely. (Pointing to it with screw driver in picture.) I was expecting a snap ring type clip as opposed to c-clip but I guess that's cool?

-The mating surfaces on nose to S/C look clean as a whistle other then some red residual sealer in holes. Should I prep the surfaces in any way prior to resealing?
-Should I clean the inside of nose and gear side with brake cleaner or something or just wipe it as clean as I can with lint free cloth?
-I was going to pull rotor pack to check roller bearings at back end and repack with grease if all is smooth. There is a small gap that opened between rotor plate and S/C body. Any suggestions on prying rotor pack out? I am afraid of using flathead and damaging.
-Any idea what that sealer is for outside edge of seal? I'll coat shaft with grease prior to sliding seal on.

Anyways, waiting for USPS to arrive today with fixin's.

 

Ok, great, yes a small socket and a large screw driver as a wedge works better to pop the seam on the case.
Personally I don’t like that type nose seal clip, but maybe it’s ok. Would prefer a Snap ring.

Did you get the high temp nose seal?

You should use brake cleaner to get ALL the oil off the surfaces.

If there is any oil the gasket maker will not seal.

Clean the seams with extra fine sandpaper or steel wool, razor blade but don’t nick the surface.

I use the GM supercharger oil at the Chevy dealership.

Put in exactly the correct amount of oil, no more ,no less and get the butt screw done while
your waiting on the seal.

It’s hard to tell we’re the oil is leaking, run your finger over the shaft where the nose seal
comes in contact with the shaft. If there is wear in that spot the shaft might need to be fixed.

Wayne at highspeedlab.com can fix or help you if needed.

Don’t know about the rotor pack situation.

The oil will be black and will stink. The hotter the oil runs the blacker the oil turns

 

Scrub everything down, this is mine before and after,

 

I’m thinking that clip is an older type and should ne replaced with a C clip.
Since your in there you should replace the rubber Coupler too.
Take note of how it is installed.

There is a front and back and has to be installed the correct way, it’s not a universal fit. Take note of the lobes in this photo off a different supercharger

 

Yes I ordered the high temp seal. I can see how it can be damaged slipping it on over the key on the shaft. Carefully!

Going to add 146ml of GM oil as per TRD spec sheet on your pdf.

I assume sanding surfaces needs to be done carefully as to avoid debris from getting in gear assembly and bearings.

 

Just make sure it’s super clean so you don’t have to redo if it leaks, just put a wash cloth to cover the inside area, it’s easy

 

I ordered a new coupler as well. The old is hard to get off. I tried pulling by hand but it is on there. I'll grab it with some channel lock plyers.

 

Cool take a photo if you need so the new one goes on the same way, same position if you forget

 

How long do you let the gasket dry before you fill with oil?

 

I waited 24 hours if I remember to be safe

 

So I received the parts. The coupler looks the same front and back. You just have to make sure the raised bevel of each hole is turned toward the base of the post that occupies that hole.

In regards to the seal, one side is flush flat and the other side is recessed. Is it the flat side that faces out toward the pulley? That's the way the old one is but that doesn't mean that's the correct way. It is leaking and poorly seated after all.

 

Yes, when I was saying there is a front and back I believe that’s on the rubber coupler not the seal. If they are the same then make sure the holes go in the correct holes as 3 have raised lips

The metal spring type thing is the back side

 

Yes I see what you mean. I looked at this picture you provided in this post https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-too-trd-supercharger-nose-seal-removal.514143/ on seal change.

That seal is THIN. I'm concerned about drilling into it and leaving debris on the inside. Since I have the nose off I think I'll hold it seal down as I drill and remove to avoid contamination.

 

Ok, just be careful NOT to let the drill bit pull its way pass the seal and hit the inside.

Here is another persons advice on the 2nd gen supercharger, I think it’s the same seal.

 

Awesome! That is the plan. BTW he did mean he put the gasket sealer on the housing edge PRIOR to seating it, right?

 

I believe so