3rd Gen DIY maintenance quick reference

Thought this was the best place to ask for a simple question. I’m about to change the tacos first oil this weekend and I bought one of the aluminum filter housings just in case. The box came opened so that made me inspect (maybe to closely). I noticed on the inside there are 2 tabs but one of them doesn’t look right (at least not in the same position as the other). Should I bend that Tab down? How should it look?

Always had spin on filters so trying to make sure I have my ducks in a row, thank you

 

Is there no Amazon store that sells the 17801-0P100 air filter? Is there a FRAM alternative? What's the best solution?

 

@APynckel ^^^I ran into the same problem as you. I bought a Wix "WA10085" filter from Amazon. Fit is good, and runs great.

 

This is what im using For a cabin filter if you want to know,
I changed to the TRD pro filter that i got when it was 40% off

EPAuto CP374 (CF10374) Replacement for Toyota/Dodge/Pontiac Premium Cabin Air Filter includes Activated Carbon
$8.87

$13 EPAuto CP374 (CF10374) Replacement for Toyota/Dodge/Pontiac Premium Cabin Air Filter includes Activated Carbon

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-CF10374-Replacement-Pontiac-Activated/dp/B01LY5YMJJ/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=Tacoma%7C1037&Year=2016%7C2016&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=4&vehicleType=automotive

 

I have a strange question I would appreciate some help with if possible. I am trying to build a tool kit I can take on trips, but I am not sure what size wrenches/sockets my truck needs outside of the lug nuts. If there was a short list of sizes I should have what would that be?

Thanks for the help/advice

 

This is what you need for any suspension work. This is from a video of Total chaos installing UCAs and coilovers.

 

Bump, rather not start a new thread. Does anyone have this in their cabinet that can take a look for me how it should be

 

Read through the thread again and seen about 3 conflicting torque specs mentions for the u bolts. 52 on 1st post then a mention of some going to 73ish and the last actually had a tsb printout with u bolts at 44. There was no reply after the tsb 44 spec post

I’m inclined to go off paperwork than random numbers on the internet (although I did for the oil change just yesterday). My last truck I was able to use a forum provided username/password to a site that had the service manual and I’d use that as my instruction. I much prefer seeing it written in a manual but can anyone comment on the conflicting ubolt spec

 

You can find the service manual posted on this forum if you search. I think it states 37 ft lbs, but I cant remember. Theres been a long running debate about it possibly being a miss print

 

Ok that’s right, I remember seeing that somewhere- that’s where the 73 came into play. That definitely doesn’t sound right or reassuring lol

I thought the way toyota does it is by subscription only. The Ford sport trac I had I could go to ebsco or something like that, use a passed around login to see everything as I needed. That was basically how I was able to changed all my front suspension and brakes for the first time- followed the steps and all torque specs (I unfortunately need the torque specs and can’t be trusted to tighten by feel)

Thanks

 

Ok so I finally did the trucks first oil change 1/yr 7500 (and was my first cartridge style) which was why I was asking about the tabs in the previous post. I figured it out- tabs need to be lifted up to “lock” in place essentially.

I had no issues with the filter drain plug or the plastic filter housing (I was the 1st to touch it too so there’s that) but that tip about a quick impact to break free the filter drain plug was spot on! My pan drain plug crush washer was stuck to the pan so I did have to carefully pick it free. Next time I think I will use the 5/8” tubing for draining the filter (although it really didn’t make a mess with just the little clear adapter piece).

Spend a good amount of time at Walmart looking at all the oil labels and went with Castrol edge ep 0w20. It’s equivalent and frankly was sold on the marketing “recommended for severe applications incl. towing/frequent short trips, idling/high performance driving/dusty, humid or extreme environment” on the back. Always used to get mobil1 for no other reason than the name so…
Used oem filter cartridge and new crush washer. It took longer than I’m used to but it wasn’t hard at all just more time consuming taking the dam and stock skid off.

 

Long time lurker here and this may be a semi-long post but I just wanted to share.

I've had a 2017 Manual Off-Road Tacoma since August of 2017. Purchased new and it came with Toyotacare for the first couple of years of maintenance. I blew through that pretty quick and have since only taken the vehicle for routine maintenance a couple times since then. The last time I went to the dealer for an oil change and tire rotation they informed me that my differentials were due as well as my transfer case and it would be $175 per fluid change. I recently moved into a house from apartment and had the space and a garage to do my own work so I started researching how to perform the maintenance on my own.

I am not a very mechanical person in general. I can do basic things like swap out a carburetor on a lawn mower and change a tire but anything major I hesitate to dig into.

I just wanted to express my gratitude for this thread that I came across pretty early in my research. I took the information here and, along with several Youtube videos, I was able to pre-document the steps required for each type of job I wanted to do.

In the end I created a binder separated by mileage (5k, 10k, 15k, etc) of items that I needed to perform at each interval. Today I performed a tire rotation, oil change, front and rear diff change, transfer case fluid change, greased my zerk fittings and manual transmission fluid change. In took me about 6 hours start to finish but I had all my tools/fluids/steps documented. Without the help of this thread and the community in general I would never have been able to accomplish this. Thanks to everyone. It really shows that anyone can do this work.

 

Insane? Insanely cheap! I did OEM spec on all driveline components (MT) and fluids alone came to 900$. T-case qrt is 80$ up here

 

I used OEM on transfer case which was $70ish on ebay. The rest I used some things recommended in this thread or others like this. MT-90 from red line for manual transmission, mobil one

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 for front and read diff. I went OEM on oil filter too but they're so cheap on Amazon.

 

Meh, I dance with the lady that brung me.

It's not rediculously expensive just to be ridiculously expensive. There is value and ROI in the equation. When I hit 200k kms I'll do exactly the same

 

Yup redline in my MT also. I have a pic of my inventory in here a ways back

 

Wasn't this thread that I posted the pic

My 100k kms maintenance inventory

 

Changed the oil for the first time in the 3.5 today. Put in approximately 6.2 qts of oil. Started the truck, waited 5 minutes or so and go to check the oil level. I guess due to the excessive bend the dipstick has to take to get to the oil pan, I could not for the life of me get a good reading. The oil would just smear practically half the way up on the dipstick. Anybody else have this issue or am I special?

 

Nope you're special.

but really try sanding or a light sand blast on the stick will help. I just put a little over 6qt in and just make shure its on the stick. check it better after 1K miles when it get a little dirty makes it easier to read, and use a bright light on it helps also.

 

I agree... the dip stick is definitely not easy to read. Try laying flat on a paper towel. That did the trick for me. And sanding it can definitely help, too.