06 Automatic Trans Service Question

If it's shifting fine, I wouldn't hesitate to flush it. The idea that the dirty fluid is what's keeping the transmission in good working order is crazy. If the transmission has problems after a flush, it's usually due to operator error, or the problem has been there and it has been ignored.

I bought my truck with 49K miles, and one of the first things I did was drop the trans pan, clean out the magnets, put in a new filter, and flushed it out with 12 quarts of new fluid with no issues. I've also done a drain and fill every January, regardless of mileage. At 100K, i'll drop the pan again and flush.

 

Thanks for the input guys.

So if I am understanding everyone correctly I should just do a "pan drop" fluid change and not a powered fluid change?

 

It's the same 2 pins for checking ABS codes. You just don't do the trans temp tap dance. I have this fear of jumping an ECU signal wire to +12V and letting the magic smoke out. This connector eliminates that possibility. Keep it in the glovebox. When you get an ABS light, just plug it in. For the VCS reset, it's jumper a different pair of pins X times in X seconds. If you have a different one with a switch, you just flip the switch back and forth. You could put a label on the box with instructions.

 

DO NOT flush a high mileage transmission without dropping the transmission pan for a contamination inspection first .

Take the pan off , drop the filter , give the filter a good cleaning and look in the bottom of the pan to see what kind of contamination is on the magnets .
If you flush before dropping the pan , you risk flushing the garbage laying in the bottom of your pan through your alluminum valve body .
The valve body is made of alluminum and the tiny shift valves that stroke 5000 times a day are also made of alluminum .
Particles laying in the bottom of the pan work like sandpaper inside your valve body .
I am not basing my opinion on 1 truck . Watch the webinar for proof

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=282&v=eMMTlQPZmqs




These transmissions need to be kept clean .

Transmission fluid breaks down with heat which reduces the friction modifiers . Your transmission will start shifting real crappy with old fluid . Most drivers dont notice until its too late .
Transmission fluid has demulsifiers to keep condensation ( water ) out of your transmission .Every time you shut your truck off overnight , water developes inside the transmission.
Once the re-agents in your fluid are depleted , your transmission fluid is finished and needs to be replaced .
Change the fluid often

 

Listen to what gearcruncher says

 

I would. But I would do 2 or 3 more DAFs over the course of a couple of weeks after that pan drop

 

most of the time from what I've read is that when people did drop the pan and do the filter it was remarkable clean and the filter visually looks GTGo anyways, a lot of extra work for NADA but I guess it would help those who are OCD about every little aspect of maintainence

 

I don't know. Haven't dropped the pan on mine yet. I probably will around 100k just for shits and giggles.

I did 4 DAFs at 55k. I will do 1 DAF every 15k miles (1 year of driving for me) until that 100k pan drop.

For now I'm sticking with WS. But that may change in the future. I really like how Maxlife has performed in the high mileage Toyotas we have in the family.

On a side note. I bought my daughter a '10 Yaris a couple of years ago with 126k on the clock. Had no real info on the tranny service history. Decided it couldn't hurt to take care of it. I personally don't think it had ever been cracked open. But the WS still had some red color to it. Nothing looked burnt. The pan and magnets looked clean.

 

In April of this year, I pulled the transmission pan on my 2nd Gen Tacoma - 34K miles on the clock. The magnets were coated with a grayish substance. Cleaned all 4 magnets with clean shop towels(no lint on these) and used the same over and over on the bottom of the pan. I did not use brake parts cleaner in the pan as it can loosen things up that might find their way into the transmission later.
The OEM filter was full of crud(no surprise). Some says these can be cleaned and reused. You could soak this type of filter in solvent and have no way of knowing if the covered area was cleaned out. I replaced the filter with a new Filter, Filter O-Ring, Pan Gasket. All were OEM. Refilled and set ATF fluid level with an ATF of my choice. Also replaced the crush washers on the drain plug and refill plug.
Last week I did the same to my wifes 5th Gen 4R - same 2WD transmissions as my 2nd Gen Tacoma - A750E. The vehicle had 94K on the clock. That pan looked pretty much the same at 94K as my Tacoma did at 34K.
As Gearcruncher has stated ahead of me, these units need to be kept clean. Both of my A750Es get 2 rotation drains/refills every 30K. From this point forward, both will get a new filter/etc at the 30K drain/fill as well as new fluid.
Flush if you like, but I have a method that works for me, not only on these 2 Toyota's, but other Asian vehicles I've owned over the years. Many have gone well over 300K without changing out the transmissions.