What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

What is a solid battery choice for our trucks? I have some additional things like lights and a winch if that makes a difference. My battery is 4 years old and needs to be replaced.

 

Northstar AGM.

Stock size: 24F.

I went with a 27F for my truck to get more reserve capacity and CCA's.

 

does it fit easily?

 

Instead of cutting the plastic battery tray I just removed it. The clamp is about 1/4" wider than the 27f, so I cut a few pieces of bicycle inner tube and put it between the clamp and the corners of the battery and clamped it down tight.

During my last 1200 mile road trip with many miles of washboard and rocks, it only shifted a tiny bit.

 

I can certainly see how it would save some ring gears and axles from exploding.

 

Before...


After...


Wheels on...

 

Not first gen related but just got back from a 8 hour trip with my 1984 pickup!

 

Nice truck!

 

No More ADS? How come?

 

@OneWheelPeel No problems with them after 5 yrs other than leaking seals. I have them in a box and will either have them rebuilt or sell them as cores. They are pretty beat up as you can see. They started putting salt on the roads in Alberta 2 years ago and it is wrecking my truck.

 

Tundra hardlines

 

Got approved for a frame replacement three weeks before my deadline!!!! I'm very excited. I needed to replace the LCA bushings and I was dreading that job.

I was hoping to get the dealership to replace the input bearing on the transmission while they have everything apart.. Does that seem like a reasonable request to you guys? I figured half the labor to replace that bearing is dropping/reinstalling the transmission, so I was hoping to save some $$$ by having it done during the frame swap.

 

Ask, the answer might be yes.
If you don't ask, the answer is still no.

 

I asked the service manager, and he said I would have to pay $120 to have it diagnosed (which I don't mind), but he didn't really give any indication if they would adjust the billed labor hours to account for the fact that they are already removing the transmission as part of the frame swap.

 

Finished routing the lines for the new PS cooler.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Hoping to save myself some headaches by putting the filter in an easy to replace spot. Also should make flushing easier with a hose outside the engine bay now.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

Anyone here know if dealerships will charge to break the rear diff bolt loose for you? I tried to get the fill bolt loose before breaking the drain loose and can not for the life of me get it to budge. I sprayed the bolt down with WD40 2 days in a row, have tried using a hammer on the ratchet to help break it, and nothing. All I'm getting now is the bolt head is starting to morph from trying so hard to break it loose. My PO always went to Toyota for service and I'm sure they overtightened the bolt

 

I’m sure they’ll charge. Tons of people have this problem and some end up welding a nut onto it to break it loose.

 

Yikes. This makes me wanna go look at my frame now. Amazing how clean it looks around that rust spot.

 

Faak well I'll put changing the fluid on hold for now then. That's some bs tho, is it from overtightening the bolt or is that one in particular prone to not budging? Like when I change it should I bear that in mind and not tighten it too much? Was gonna put some oil around the threads too like an oil filter to make sure it doesn't happen again. Thanks for the help!

 

Just prone to freeze or whatever.


Someone more knowledgeable might chime in with more info.