Long Travel BS Thread

X2 After checking out Advanced's site on their stuff it looks 4.5 with that amount of bulge.

In terms of decisions, it never hurts having a little more room in the fenderwell...although a slightly bigger bulge might affect your MPG ever so slightly.

 

Always make sure your bulge is pronounced...

Actually I have the 6/6.5" Fenders/Bedsides + 1" BL but with LT and 35s I still have to trim them to not rub....

 

Thanks, the previous owner said 3” or 3.5” but I’ve been wanting to know for certain

 

Any idea what company he went with? From advance glass their three sizes are 3.5, 4.5, and 6.

As @Zam15 said...it never hurts to go bigger. On my first gen I also rocked 6 inch glassworks fenders which advance fiberglass is their new name cause I also had 35 inch tires. I would have killed to find 6 inch bedsides back in the day though. If you plan to run 35s ever, I would consider 6 inch depending on your set up

 

I’m guessing glassworks? I would like to know if their 3.5 than I’ll get the 6’s but if it’s the 4.5 I’ll probably just keep them...

 

Has anyone added a zerk fitting to the shackle of the DMZ SUA kit? If so, can you show pics of exactly where you added it? I am having a heck of a time trying to remove that bushing sleeve. I have it soaking in some Kroil and will try to press it out tomorrow. I figured it would be best to have grease in this assembly.

 

I would do everything possible to salvage that kit...because it’s always fit so perfect and been so trouble free for ya’

In all seriousness unless you gusset that somehow and even wrap it I would call it done and burn it with fire...hot fire...

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/B1x03lXhBCY/?igshid=1dfo2v1g55hx9

 

Ive asked Tim about adding zerks to the shackles and he advised against it as the bushings are already self lubricating (derlin) and the grease would just attract dirt.

 

I talked to Tim about it the other day, and he said its been a couple years since he has done it. He mentioned just to put them in convenient spots for easy service. I bought some replacement bushings that are urethane. I also cut my new bushings on the chop saw, so basically there is a 1/4" gap in the center. I only did the shackles. I may do the rear spring eyes as well. I have had the SUA kit for about 5 years now and I am on my second set of bushings. I am not too concerned about dirt since I will be making a set of rear fender liners. My chaos kit up front has urethane bushings and dirt isnt an issue with those.

I can also access the zerk from the bottom hole in the hanger.

 

That’s on HB Monsters 3rd gen Tacoma he rolled

Kevin has been reworking a lot of his second gen designs including frame plates/doubler and the swingset steering

 

Look mean. Are those McNeil? Wonder how much of them will be left once you trim.

@concentric_killa I am just going to get a piece of 1/4-20 all thread to set the IFP depth.

Well clears at full bump full lock with 35’s. Much more and the hinges would have been in the way. Got some Henry’s roofing sealer from HD to seal it from the inside and outside - takes forever to dry but I put it on good and thick about 1/4”-3/8” in places.

 

I didn't realize the IFP is 1/4-20 thread. I have been searching around for places to service my bypasses. Both Fox factory and a local 4x4 place in salt lake want $160 per shock. That kinda makes me want to service them myself. I have watched several Youtube videos and downloaded the fox manual. The sealer kits are like $15-20, and a gallon of Oil is like $30-50? I also found a place in SLC that could re-plate them in zinc for $45 per shock. I don't think I would any special tools. I have a coilover spanner wrench that already has pins for the dust cap removal. Only thing I don't have is nitrogen but I know I could get a charge somewhere..

FTW henrys roofing sealer. lol. I bought a can of FlexSeal for my pinch weld area. So far so good.. My other problem spot is actually on the drivers side now. My Spod harness and a couple other wires pass through the large rubber gland on the firewall. I ended up shooting some silicon into this passthru gland. Also, the factory nuts that held the stock mud flaps will leak as well. I had my

 

Getting ready to do CV axles on my 01 LT with camber upper and lowers.

My question is, do I splurge and go OEM Tundra CV or will the Ebay/Autozone/Oriley ones be just fine? I don't wheel super hard much these days. Rarely 4L.

Ebay is $120 for a set
AutoZone Duralast is $200
and Toyota OEM is $800......

If anyone has any other recommendations feel free to lemme know. Im popping like a bag of popcorn every turn!

 

I did a thing.

 

I ran oriellys reman Tundra axles with zero issues

 

Meh...shoulda went with a ford 9....third members are so much easier to work with. Blow a R&P just pull the 3rd member and swap it out ....Dana60...not so much.

 

Whats it matter if it doesnt blow?

 

He'll do something stupid and blow it up....its in his blood to...but he cant help it he was born that way I guess.