HP Tuners for 2005-2015

Hello Folks,

I have went through the majority of this thread and need some input, I am considering purchasing this tuner to improve auto trans shift performance on a 2013 4.0 regeared on 35s as I have not been pleased with shift points and the general drive-ability of the truck.

so question #1 can I achieve better trans performance in this application? question #2 is there performance improvements on n/a applications that can be expected, while not influencing reliability and MPG?

Thanks for your time!

 

You can absolutely change all of the shift points to suit your preferences.

 

@nd4spdbh can help with #1.
@JustDSM can help with #2.

 

Performance in for N/A applications is there and felt mostly in "normal use" scenarios. The WOT gains are relatively minor for stock-ish setups. As you stray further from stock with bolt-ons/cams/etc the N/A tuning will be more worthwhile/necessary. While stock-ish N/A setup gains at WOT are relatively minor, the drive-ability/increased torque in daily driving RPM zones as well as increased fuel economy are worth the price of admission.

 

Just did ~ 750 miles round trip and 9k ft of elevation gain and decent over the last weekend to mammoth and back with a JustDSM's engine tune and my v11 trans tune, and ACIS changes. Tons of hills and steep grades as well as a good chunk of headwinds to deal with. The trans tune allowed me to hold gears longer in lockup, use cruise control better etc which made drive ability soooo much better, and the engine tune definitely made for better MPG's and standard driving power.

Its well worth it for sure!

 

Can’t wait to get one! I’ll be ordering here shortly! This is exactly what I was hoping to hear. Holding gears a bit longer is probably my biggest complaint with how the transmission logic is setup. I hope it makes going up small grades much less eventful as far as shifting is concerned with cruise control on. So excited!!!

 

cruise behaves a smidge better... but the issue with cruise isnt necessarily the trans logic, its the logic of how cruise reacts to stuff (too slowly, then overreacts). Holding on to gears a bit longer makes it to where it can act slowly and overreact within the same gear.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking, just couldn't put down as well as you were able to. For me it's the rolling hills of Iowa and South Dakota that bother me. Not really big hills but there's no reason it should over-react like it does on them.

 

Yup, It will still overreact for sure, but my incidences of cruising along in 5th locked, then cruise downshifting to 3rd have probably been halved. Lots of times I mitigate any issues with gear hunting by simply popping it into 4th while in cruise before i see a hill coming, this will get it into 4th lockup, and with the trans tune and how much more aggressive it is with holding lockup in 4th cruise is just able to do its thing right up the hill without much wavering from set speed.

 

This make me so happy to hear!! haha

 

Got my ECU back from hptuners! Doing the immobilizer handshake. Finally gonna get a tune on her!

 

@JustDSM I'll be paying you some money soon for your tune

 

Whenever you’re ready buddy! Hit me up and we’ll get you dialed.

 

Just need to see how I like nd4spdbh's trans tune works first, then on to the engine

 

@nd4spdbh I'm on a mix of your v10 and v11, not getting lock up in 4th (unless I manually shift it and release and press the gas like stock), running between 40-50% pedal and 3500rpm around 65-70, what values to help lock 4th do I need to change?

 

Were they able to recover a bricked ECU?

I believe there is some other logic we are not seeing wherein the trans takes a look at how close other events are. That is I feel, it wont lockup in 4th if it sees that its likely going to be hitting a 4 to 5 shift within x amount of time.

With the v11 tune my truck will lockup in 4th no problem (definitely a smide earlier than stock which is how i have it setup), in 4th or D, but in D it will typically only lockup if im climbing a hill and it downshifts and stays in 4th (as if i moved the shifter to 4th). Also at lower throttle inputs the 4th lockup event can be rather subtle and hard to feel, best just run some logging and add TCC Lockup state and Trans Current gear so you can really see whats going on.

 

Yes they did recover the ecu.

Its when I'm climbing a hill, it shifts to 4th right away and stays in 4th the whole time but no lock (watching the rpm), but I shift it into 4 then I can get it to lock.
So on the line graphs, are we talking area above the curve is when it locks?

 

@nd4spdbh @JustDSM

Thanks a bunch for the info folks, I am convinced to get the unit.

Can I assume the process is a matter of flashing the ECU and unplugging the dongle? Also I assume the Pro version would be over kill as I am not looking for that kind of data, at most I could want would be the ability to display sensors that do not have gauges such as the trans temp, but I am not sure this unit supports that or is the best method for me.

So in summary I should purchase a MPVI2, one Credit, and subsequent tunes from you gentlemen?

Anticipated cost of the tunes?

Thanks in advance.

 

If its in 4th and is staying in 4th, it will lock if you are above the 4th apply curve based on driveshaft rpms and throttle input. Being on 35's with extra armor you are likely much deeper into the pedal than a stock truck so lockup might be harder to achieve unless you back off the throttle a bit to get your position on the graph above the lockup curve then you can get back in it.

 

Process is as described, plug dongle in and follow proper procedures to flash the truck (ideally you do it in your garage on some sort of battery tender, making sure all accessories are off etc.... you dont wanna brick your ecu out in the wild).

There is no need for the pro version unless you want to data log external sensors (wideband o2 sensor etc), non pro can log all sorts of things including both trans pan and torque converter output temp.

For purchase you will need the MPVI2, and 4 universal credits 460-500 bucks depending on where you buy them from.

My trans tunes are public and free because its pretty simple changes without much needed knowledge (compared to engine - spark n fueling etc), engine tunes talk to JustDSM.