'19 Tacoma OR G5-EX Projector Swap / BHLM

So I first started down the path of RX350 projector swap, but looks like parts might be a a bit of an issue. That said, looks like the guys over at lightwerkz have the G5-R projector adapters. Assuming the adapters work for the G5-EX, that is where this mod will begin.

I do have a bit of a time crunch though, end of this month, I'd like to be somewhere in the Alpine Loop area for the colors.

Lightwerkz BOM:
Bi-Xenon: G5-EX Projectors
D2S: Morimoto XB35 ballasts
Morimoto D2S bulbs at 5500k
2016+ Tacoma to D2S 5.0/G5-R brackets
Beam Splitter (H11 male > H11/9006 female)
HD Relay H11/H9/H8
Morimoto permatrator (for the permaseal, hoping between this and oven at 300, they should come apart super easy)
Silica gel packs
Retro Rubber (so I can get back into them in the future for more mods)

Anyone have some feedback on the fitment of the G5-EX in the G5-R brackets? I assume they are the same fitment, but I can't confirm with the documentation on lightwerkz's site. I've got an email out to them. I'd welcome other feedback as well since this is my first full retro.

I also plan to upgrade the fogs, to morimoto's, baja, or rigids, so not too worried about the cornering spill. Personally, I think headlights shouldn't have that much spill anyway, that is for aux (fog/cornering) lights.

 

I am currently having a set of headlights being built with some Morimoto d2S 5.0 by Kustom 54 Lighting. I'm just looking to do something different than the usual RX350 swap. I like the fact that the D2S 5.0's and the G5's are tuned with clear lenses from the factory and are cheaper (Tuned RX350's w/clear lens=$330 and D2S 5.0=$165). I'm sure there will be more work involved but it will be worth it in the end. Unsure about the brackets.
As for the fog lights, I'd get the OEM Toyota Tundra LED fogs or the KC Hilites before the Morimotos.

 

Well the G5's came in today.

Went with Rigid d2 sae Amber for the fogs.

Anyone use the XTR VF 7440's for the turn signals? I got a pair, but the collar is too big for the taco. Anyone have any luck with them?

 

How much are they running you?

 

$1250 for new TYC headlights, bhlm and Morimoto D2S 5.0.

 

They'll look great on your truck

 

So making progress. The new projectors are shorter than the stock by a few mm, plus there are rivets and a mounting bracket. Current plan is to file down the rivets a bit, then file down the mounts in the stock bracket. Then I'll JB weld in the steel mounting bracket adapter. Finally bolt up the new projectors to the new bracket and shim it.

All in all I'm about 10 mm short of the OEM placement. By my math, I can come up with 7mm without going drastic.

Anyone have an idea how JB Weld will adhear to the OEM projector bracket? Should I look to doing some inserted nuts to be safe? This will be an off road rig, so I can't have things breaking loose in the housing.

 

Upper is stock. Bottom is the new G5. Shorter and wider lense holder.

 

More progress. Should be able to start rough alignment tomorrow. Then on to install some inserts into the existing holes, counter sink the bracket for machine screws, then reinforce with JB weld.

I'll take measurements once I'm done on how far each post was removed by comparing to the other headlight and post up for anyone who wants to do this in the future. The brackets, while a bit pricey, were worth is for this install so far.

 

question: why not use a RX350 projector? AFAIK you only have to notch the housing for the solenoid

 

The G5-R is a better projector and this is the EX, the upgrade of that one. Also, cost... You can get the G-5EX with bracket for less than a RX350 with a clear lense swap and tune.

Comparison

There isn't that much more cutting with this one, it is more so me being overly cautious. I'm sure a seasoned retrofitter would be done in a few hours once passed the permaseal.

 

Well after spending way too much time trying to shim the projector, I've changed plans and am going down the screw and nut approach. Picked up plenty of JB weld. I'll post up some pictures when I get back home.

 

Here is my current path forward. Projector will end up with nylocs jb welded on the back, encasing the corners of the projector.

To create the adjuster screws, I'm using an M5 washer as a thrust washer (smooth side towards screw face), M4 countersink machine screws, and silicone dielectric grease as both lubricant and mould release. Surfaces of the bracket and back side of washer are hit with 100 grit sand paper. Holes on the bracket are countersunk to match the screws. Once JB weld is on, I wiggle the screw a bit to give it some rotational play.

 

Keep on retroing! Love threads like this and I can appreciate the time that goes into the custom work

 

Thanks. It is definitely an iterative process. Knowing what I know now, I would have gone up to the g5-xl which is an extra 0.25" diameter bigger. I may at some point.

 

Throw it in the high beam spot for dual projectors

 

Interesting that the RX350 cutoff line looks like complete crap, in that comparison.

Here is mine, that was custom tuned, for a reference. CBH bulbs and Morimoto 55w ballast:



Also, with all that work and effort, why not get some high quality Philips bulbs (CBB or CBH) and 55w ballasts?

 

Its a stock RX350 projector, not tuned/clear lens. There are a few other comparisons that I'll dig up and link when I get home since youtube is blocked here. All in all the hotspot just shy of cutoff on the G5-R/EX is hotter than the RX350, which was my deciding factor.

I've gone back and fourth on this. I have a trip coming up this weekend , so didn't know if the foreground on the 55w would be too much without foreground limiters. The G5's lack that since the bowl is pretty good at condensing the light toward the hotspot and side spill. Current plan is to run the 35w's on this trip, and if I think I still need more light, I might bump up. I've been toying with the idea of putting a Rigid D2 cube in there for high beams. I have some of their older hybrid spots that might make fantastic high beams if I could get them to fit.

 

After trying a few different things and not being happy with them, this is what I settled on.

Nyloc and washer potted in JB Weld, moulded to match the location where the nut will be. Then use high density silicone sheet to provide a surface with a little give. Finally, glue all the layers in using silicone adhesive.

My concern that I couldn't find an easy solution for is being able to turn the screws without at some point the nylocs breaking loose due to how epoxy usually handles slightly flexible joints with stresses. This way, the JB weld acts as a custom load spreader, giving plenty of surface area for the silicone to hold onto. Springs are also in place to be the primary absorption of any stresses.

Anyone smarter than me see an issue with this approach?